Another stupid question. :(

[Officers'Wife]

Is it really necessary to use the resizing die every time? Using a sample of 10 out of 100 the micrometer shows less than 1/100,000 variance to the published dimensions.

 

[Schwing]

I think it is. Which dimension are you measuring, case length or diameter? My experience has been that case length varies by several thousandths if not resized. It also impacts reliable chambering.

Personally, I would resize every time.

 

[rcmodel]

Yes, it is necessary, if you don't want your bullets to fall out.

Re-sizing restores proper bullet case neck tension.
Without it, you will have no case neck tension to hold the bullet in place.

rc

 

[Classic55belair]

As they stated. Now if you are firing the same brass from 1 bolt gun over and over neck sizing is only required. If for instance shooting 223/556 from an AR (or any semi auto) full length sizing should be done.

 

[Officers'Wife]

ID, case just above rim and case length. The only vary is ID and wouldn't that be solved by the crimping?

 

[rcmodel]

No.
Crimping cannot replace proper case neck tension.

It is necessary to get consistent powder burn.

Re-Size everything.

The other problem you are likely to encounter is the bullets fall down inside the case on the powder before you get a chance to crimp them!!

Resize everything!!

rc

 

[Blue68f100]

Crimping does not hold the bullet. Sizing is required for for proper neck tension. Besides all brass varies in wall thickness so you have a constant changing variable. And 0.001" can make a huge difference in neck tension. Normally you only have about 0.002"-0.003" max.

 

[Bexar]

Is it really necessary to use the resizing die every time? Using a sample of 10 out of 100 the micrometer shows less than 1/100,000 variance to the published dimensions.

Don't ever say another stupid question.

None of us are experts and anyone that says they are...ain't.

Ask away...some of us enjoy these discussions immensely.

 

[otisrush]

Ask away...some of us enjoy these discussions immensely.

I agree! It's great to see the expertise get extracted and documented when various questions get asked. I feel like I learn A TON!

OR

 

[TimSr]

Do you not deprime and resize in one operation with the same die?

 

[Officers'Wife]

Ok, then what about "bottleneck" calibers like 32-20?

My concern is that constant resizing is going to cause metal fatigue and shorten the life of the case.

I know I'm a mangmang babae and know that most of the questions I'm going to ask are so much no-brainers that you guys wonder why you bother. I'm just giving you fair warning is all.

 

[choppinlow]

Is it really necessary to use the resizing die every time?

Without a doubt yes. Please don't even begin to consider that as a step to omit.

 

[rcmodel]

Ok, then what about "bottleneck" calibers like 32-20?

Especially, YES!

Bottleneck calibers expand the shoulder forward every firing.
They may not even chamber again without sizing.

rc

 

[Gtscotty]

Yes, it is necessary, if you don't want your bullets to fall out.

Re-sizing restores proper bullet case neck tension.
Without it, you will have no case neck tension to hold the bullet in place.

rc

Bingo, I've been there and done that. I tried to reload some 270 WSM without resizing, that I had screwed up on and pulled down. The neck tension was not nearly good enough, I could push the bullets in by hand, accuracy would have been dismal.

 

[Officers'Wife]

First step knocks out the primer, 2nd sizes, 3rd seats new primer & adds powder (no die) last seats the ball.

 

[choppinlow]

Knock out primers, seats a ball? What?

The simple answer to your question has been given. Seriously there is not going to be an instance of reloading where you don't size the brass (be it full length or neck sizing).

I have universal de-capping dies, but 99% of the time like most folks I resize and de-cap with the same die. Most sizing dies and die sets are sold that way.

 

[lysanderxiii]

NOTE:

There are two types of "re-sizing", Neck Sizing and Full Length Sizing

Neck Sizing just returns the neck to the proper dimension and leaves the rest of the case "as fired".

Full Length Sizing returns the entire case to pre-fired dimensions.

You always have to do one of these. For automatics and semi-automatics, in order to chamber reliably, full length sizing is required.

 

[Walkalong]

Beginners need to stick to full length resizing until they gain experience, and there are no stupid questions. I have seen a few stupid answers in my time, but never a stupid question. I sure wish you would ease up on yourself.

For bottle necked calibers the first die sizes, decaps, and expands the necks.

For straight walled calibers the first die sizes and decaps.

As posted, you need to resize so you will have proper neck tension and so the case can be sure to fit the chamber.

You write very well so I would assume you read very well, so get started on that reloading manual.

 

[Officers'Wife]

Beginners need to stick to full length resizing until they gain experience, and there are no stupid questions. I have seen a few stupid answers in my time, but never a stupid question. I sure wish you would ease up on yourself.

For bottle necked calibers the first die sizes, decaps, and expands the necks.

For straight walled calibers the first die sizes and decaps.

As posted, you need to resize so you will have proper neck tension and so the case can be sure to fit the chamber.

You write very well so I would assume you read very well, so get started on that reloading manual.

OK, now I'm confused, if the 1st die resizes when it pushes out the primer what does the 2nd die do? I mean I know the 3rd one seats the ball (and crimps)

 

[notaglockfanboy]

OK, now I'm confused, if the 1st die resizes when it pushes out the primer what does the 2nd die do? I mean I know the 3rd one seats the ball (and crimps)

Depends on what you are loading and what dies you are using. If it is pistol, then the second die may be belling the case to accept the bullet.

 

[Jim Watson]

Ok, then what about "bottleneck" calibers like 32-20?

My concern is that constant resizing is going to cause metal fatigue and shorten the life of the case.

This is a common Internet Concern. People worry more about "brass life" than they do the quality of the finished cartridge. Minimum sizing (and expansion) is for benchrest shooting by experienced experts.

In a three die set, most commonly seen for straight walled cartridges, Die No 1 decaps and resizes (full or neck) so the loaded round will hold a bullet and enter the chamber.

Die No 2 expands the case neck to a uniform inside diameter. No 1 has normally sized the neck down good and plenty to account for fluctuations in brass thickness and hardness. No 2 makes it all the same inside where the bullet goes. It also flares the case mouth for easy starting of a bullet for the seating step.

Die No 3 seats a bullet and in some cases, crimps the case mouth against it. (You will sound more professional if you refer to a "bullet" rather than a "ball."

Many pistol die sets have a fourth die to do the crimping. This is valuable when loading for an automatic pistol whose bullets lack a crimp groove, or when loading the cheap smooth sided plated bullets for automatic or revolver.

There are some old die sets which do the decapping with the expander die.
The Dillon progressive loader drops a powder charge through a hollow expander they call a "powder funnel".


You can get by with a two die set for bottleneck cartridges.
Die No 1 decaps, resizes, and neck expands (with an expander ball on the decapping spindle.)*
Die No 2 seats and crimps.
With no separate expand - flare step, the case mouth should be chamfered with the deburring tool so a bullet can be seated without scraping off jacket metal.
If you wish to load lead bullets in a bottleneck, best to buy a separate expander die.

A target shooter will often use "bushing dies" which by selection of the sizing bushing to match the neck thickness of the brass, avoids the use of an expander ball or die. It gives more controlled "bullet pull" and also longer brass life. Doubt you can get a bushing die for your .32-20, though.

 

[Walkalong]

now I'm confused

Just missing the difference between bottle necked and straight brass. Not many people "expand" rifle brass other than the normal expansion by the button on the decapping stem.

.32-20 is one bottle necked case that I do use an expander in a second step for. The sets I have seen all have a separate expander. I assume that this is because the difference in the body and neck isn't large enough to do it with an expander button on the decapping rod.

I agree that worrying about case life is secondary to making a quality reload. I get plenty of firings from .32-20 cases. I simply don't worry about it.

 

[gamestalker]

At the absolute least, they must be neck sized to obtain neck tension. Crimping has nothing to do with neck tension.

For AL rimless less cartridges, crimping is necessary to restore belled case mouths back to proper / original diameter so they will chamber and feed reliably.

For rimmed cartridges, such as for a revolver, the crimp is used to prevent the bullets in the un-fired cartridges from getting pulled forward from inertia during firing.

GS

 

[Reefinmike]

At the risk of sounding like an arse- please, pick up a reloading manual and read it front to back. It will answer nearly any question you could muster up.

Dont worry about shortening the case life of your 38 special cases by sizing. loaded properly, they will get well over 50 firings a piece.

 

[Officers'Wife]

At the risk of sounding like an arse- please, pick up a reloading manual and read it front to back. It will answer nearly any question you could muster up.

Dont worry about shortening the case life of your 38 special cases by sizing. loaded properly, they will get well over 50 firings a piece.

Point taken, I apologize for wasting everyone's time.