Any 10mm reloading advice?

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I get my 180 grain jhp from zero bullets, been using longshot powder, tried a few others but was disappointed with the results but plan on trying blue dot soon, my 10mm is my favorite pistol to shoot and load for.
 
If you're loading on a progressive press with a powder dispenser and not weighing charges, I'd suggest going with a ball powder, like something from Accurate, rather than a flake powder like Blue Dot. Trying to meter charges of blue dot will have you pulling your hair out. For fun, casual plinking, I used 200 grain lead bullets from Missouri Bullet Company. Leading was never an issue. These guys know what they're doing when it comes to lead projectiles and they also offer coated bullets.

If you want HOT, light bullets and slow powder. The 135s scream.

It's an easy round to load for. I always kept Accurate Nos. 2, 5, 7 and 9 for my .45, 9mm and .357 anyway, so nothing new to buy. Cept bullets of course. The 150ish grainers with Accurate No. 9 is a handful at near max charge.
 
I avoid Blue Dot in 10mm like the plague. Way too peaky. AA#9 is my go-to for heavy bullets. 809-X is good if you’re willing to weigh charges.
 
I have had success with Power Pistol and more currently BE-86. I feel that Power Pistol can be pushed a little more, but I choose not to. My favorite load of PP is 7.9 gn under a 180gn RMR FMJ. Its loud, and flashy, but it's pretty accurate and feels like a solid 10mm load. I have pushed over 8gns but didn't see any advantage. 7.9gns of PP drops easily out of my autodisc with the .71 hole.

Currently, I'm using BE-86 though. It's less flashy, and actually more easily attained around here. 7.8gn under the same 180gn RMR FMJ. Same .71 auto disc hole.

No chrony, shot out of a Glock 40.

I initially tried to use Federal match Magnum LP primers, because that is what I had. I advise against it. Immediate serious pressures signs on my ladder work ups. CCI LPP primers on all loads now. I've tried Win LPP which say they can be used with magnum loads, slight over pressure signs. I'll stick with CCI.
 
I've done AA9, PowerPistol, BE86 and I even loaded a bunch of PowerPro 300-MP (just because). I can't really say any of them are much better than any others based on accuracy testing. No special instructions for 10mm, although I personally would watch what you shoot those maxed-out loads in when running Starline brass...I found that Starline behaves a lot like Silly Putty at even book max loads, and in a factory Glock barrel, might as well just throw it away because it'll never be right again. For 165 gr bullets I think PowerPistol might be a fave, but I've used AA9 for everything 165 gr and above, and have pretty much decided it's The One. I have read many posts by others who have loaded a truck load of 10 that Blue Dot performs well at the high end, but I have never tried it myself. I shoot mostly cast 180s using a mold from Accurate Molds, but have done a lot of 180 and 200 XTPs and a few hundred 165 Gold Dots.

My only wish for 10mm would be tougher brass and/or small pistol primers -- small pistol magnums would seem to be ideal -- something to help it hold up better. But, Starline does use tougher and heavier brass (or so they tell me) in their 10mm Magnum brass, and they've told me that trimming it back to 10mm Auto length would not be an issue for bullet seating/loading for 10mm Auto. I think my optimum solution is simply to stick to moderate to book max loads with AA9...nothing bad happens there.

You should find loading for 10mm to be a great experience with vast options--heck, 12 different powders from the Hornady manual alone--it's fantastic.
 
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My AA#9 loads are awfully slow, I'm thinking of working up power pistol loads next. I heard from many many shooters that AA#9 was a winner but I think it's a tad too slow. I haven't tried it with magnum primers though and that might be the ticket to unlock it's potential.

800-X is another powder I hear good things about but I can't accept the metering. That's one thing AA#9 wins on hands down it meters flawlessly and for 10mm where I want hot loads metering is key to me.

Overall I think 10mm is really easy to load for and I like loading for it even more than 45acp.
 
AA9 is messy out of my Lee Auto Disc. Also,it didn’t group as well as Blue Dot for me so I decided to stick with BD and avoid the AA9 mess
 
YES! ^^^^^This is my advice^^^^^. This and expect to recover less than 80%of your brass out of that XD. Those 10mm cases usually get ejected into the next county.
I thought I would be able to recover brass for my reload but found out that it was ejecting the brass more than 3 lanes over, and when I was shoot at 25 yards next to the cover all the brass was landing on top of the roof.

I found out also that the 10mm brass is also the parent case for the 9X25 Dillon cartridge, which has me thinking as I had been wanting to get the FN 5.7, now I don't know.
 
I thought I would be able to recover brass for my reload but found out that it was ejecting the brass more than 3 lanes over, and when I was shoot at 25 yards next to the cover all the brass was landing on top of the roof.

I found out also that the 10mm brass is also the parent case for the 9X25 Dillon cartridge, which has me thinking as I had been wanting to get the FN 5.7, now I don't know.

I have two pistols in 9x25 Dillon, and yes, the 10mm is the parent case. It's a simple conversion, but the dies are very expensive. To tell you the truth, some of the .38 Super loadings come close to what the 9x25 Dillon can do. Not quite as fast, but close. No one makes brass for the 9x25, so you'll have to have the dies to neck the 10mm down, but it's easy, once you spring for the dies, which you'd need to load the round, anyway. I believe some people have experimented by sizing in a 10mm size die, then finishing it off with a 357 Sig size die, adjusted out for the proper forming of the shoulder. I haven't needed to try that myself, but I guess it would be a possibility.

The 9x23 Winchester comes even closer, but it's still not quite as fast as the 9x25. I have one pistol and one revolver in 9x23 Winchester. With either the .38 Super +P, or the 9x23 Winchester, you don't lose magazine capacity like you do with the larger 10mm case.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
Picked up a 10mm XDm 5.25" pistol a few days ago, Starline brass and 200 grain XTP bullets are showing up today. Hope to have a load work up ready to go for some Saturday blasting.

Anything I should know about that makes the 10mm any different then loading for the .40 or any other caliber?

I'm also in the process of putting together the items needed to cast and load around a 200 grain bullet. Slugged the bore which came out at .401 so it looks like I'll need a little bigger bullet and tools over my .40 cal stuff.

Ya got a 10mm not a 40 short and weak for a reason. Load 'em up to 10mm. They will shoot better than trying to "go light".

You are on the exact right path.
 
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I have 200 pieces of Starline brass showing up from Midway today. Planning on starting out with my .40 dies but will eventually at least purchase a dedicated sizer die so I don't have to mess with the .40 dies which are set up for the Hornady progressive. Figured I could size and bell with the Hornady AP press but I will probably hand weight charges and then seat bullets on the single stage at least for the ammo I plan on carrying as a defense load. Planning on a couple elk hunts in Wyoming grizzly country with this pistol.

Don't think I'd count on it to hunt elk with but I've never hunted elk with any thing else either. But I have shot a ton of my own cast lead and blue dot through my colt and my Glock 10mm.

Order another thousand of that brass.

Here is a semi-auto reloading tip I use a lot here at my own range because that brass can be pricey. Get some "markers" you can just throw down on the ground and see from 30-40 feet away. I use those corner protectors truckers loose off their tie down straps, but they could be any thing you can see easy. Checkers, poker chips, Ritz crackers. When you are done shooting and start looking for your brass, have a dozen of those markers handy and when you find a piece of brass throw down a marker and start walking around it in a circle looking. Find another pc of brass, drop another marker. Find a pc outside your markers move them out. Pretty soon you have half your brass now and the rest are all inside a circle of markers. Back up 10-20 feet outside that circle and walk around it. You'll start seeing the sun glint off those like they are touched with a magic wand.
 
I have two pistols in 9x25 Dillon, and yes, the 10mm is the parent case. It's a simple conversion, but the dies are very expensive. To tell you the truth, some of the .38 Super loadings come close to what the 9x25 Dillon can do. Not quite as fast, but close. No one makes brass for the 9x25, so you'll have to have the dies to neck the 10mm down, but it's easy, once you spring for the dies, which you'd need to load the round, anyway. I believe some people have experimented by sizing in a 10mm size die, then finishing it off with a 357 Sig size die, adjusted out for the proper forming of the shoulder. I haven't needed to try that myself, but I guess it would be a possibility.

The 9x23 Winchester comes even closer, but it's still not quite as fast as the 9x25. I have one pistol and one revolver in 9x23 Winchester. With either the .38 Super +P, or the 9x23 Winchester, you don't lose magazine capacity like you do with the larger 10mm case.

Hope this helps.

Fred
Thanks for the info, like I said I just bought the 10mm and have only put a couple of hundred rounds of Sig ammo thru it. So it will be a while before I pull the trigger and to add more fuel to the fire a buddy of mine bought a Rock Island 22 TCM and I got to shoot it yesterday, talk about fireballs, now I want that too. Anyway thanks for the input on the 9X25 Dillon.
 
No special instructions for 10mm, although I personally would watch what you shoot those maxed-out loads in when running Starline brass...I found that Starline behaves a lot like Silly Putty at even book max loads, and in a factory Glock barrel, might as well just throw it away because it'll never be right again.

Honestly, if Starline brass is giving you trouble, that's a strong sign you have a very loose chamber and insufficient chamber support. Early Glock 10mm's (and even 40's) were known for this. Later on Glock increased the chamber support, and most aftermarket upgrade barrels fix it, too.

Here's a thread I started with lots of photos of case support in various 10mm's. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/10mm-case-support-photos.844352/#post-10982555
 
Shot my work up loads on Saturday as well as a box of Sig 180 grain factory that came with the pistol. All loads shot well, the low end Blue Dot load would make a great light target round. 9.2 grains of Blue Dot is quite peppy and on par with the Sig loads. Velocity range was 1000 fps at 7.8 grains of Blue Dot to 1175 fps for 9.2 grains. My numbers might be off a little due to the snow cover on the ground and nice sunny day messing with the Chrony. I seem to be about 50 fps higher then what Hornady lists for the 200 grain XTP.

Recovered all my Starline brass, while the case length shrunk a bit the brass looks just fine and sized right up read to go again.
 
Some of that SIG ammo is considered to be or near to Full Power. I like that ammo.
It shot very well in my firearm. Recoil was not bad as I thought it would be, as others had mentioned that it was, but I founded to be very similar to shooting one of my short barrel 1911's in 45 acp, I guess the 6" slide tames it a little too. I find that my 686 with a 3" barrel that I carry daily is much more stout. You are the second person that has mentioned that the sig ammo is full power, and that is all that I shoot in it until I collect enough brass, if I ever find it.
 
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