Any input on Bark River Bravo Necker II?

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I started carrying a small fixed blade wharncliffe (a CRKT SPEW) awhile ago and I've been impressed with how much lighter and thinner it is to carry than most of my folders. The only thing I've been disappointed with is the steel; which is easy to make very sharp but also dulls quickly. It is also a little slower to put away after use; but that is hardly a deal breaker.

I started looking for an original Alan Folts SPEW but those are almost impossible to find now. I came across the Bravo Necker II and I am really liking the specs. Anyone have any input on it?
 
3V is a great steel for many applications, but does seem like overkill for a neck knife, unless it's capitalizing on the 3V strength by being ground very thin. (I do have a 3V Daily Kiri, but it is tiny.)

The Bravo Necker II also seems on the long side for a neck knife, as well as being extremely sturdy.

When the first factory proto ARK got to me, it was too thick. I asked Spyderco to reduce the thickness to 2mm, because it was overbuilt for a neck knife. The BN2 is even thicker, at .13. It's a survival knife on a dangler.

Now, OTOH, if you're not planning on neck carry, and want a super strong yet compact knife, the BN2 might be okay for you: otherwise, you might consider waiting until the ARK comes out next month.
 
I'm mostly just looking for a slimmer, lighter knife for pocket carry to replace the Benchmade Rift. I grew up with folders, so I've always though of a "pocket knife" as a folder; but the SPEW has convinced me that you can pocket carry a fixed blade just fine - and that it can be lighter and slimmer as well. In fact, if the CRKT version of the SPEW wasn't noticeably duller after cutting a block of cheese (with a 18 degree per side edge on it), I'd probably just keep using that.

So I'm just looking for a everyday pocket knife that is slim, light, and a good slicer that keeps its edge. I don't plan on using it to baton logs or build a shelter. It's main duties are probably going to be food prep and cutting boxes/tape.

That is an interesting point on the blade thickness. My Rift (which according to the Internet is 0.114" thick) is an excellent slicer, while the Kershaw Groove I have splits apples like you drove a wooden wedge into them because of the wide profile the grooves give it.

My understanding is that the original Bravo Neckers were in Sandivik 12C27; but I think the maker upgraded them to CPM 3V after there were several videos of people rolling the edge while trying to baton them and be all bushcrafty with them. From the reviews I've read, it apparently has a fine, convexed edge.
 
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I would suggest the Spyderco Enuff, but I also think it's overbuilt, at 4mm thickness.

I'll make a deal with you: I'll send you an ARK and a couple other knives next month. If you like one, we can talk about price. If you don't care for any, send 'em all back.
 
So I'm just looking for a everyday pocket knife that is slim, light, and a good slicer that keeps its edge. I don't plan on using it to baton logs or build a shelter. It's main duties are probably going to be food prep and cutting boxes/tape.
Well, in that case I'd get in touch with hso and have him recommend some lesser known custom makers. Something that size won't be expensive. Have the maker do a full flat grind on thin bar stock. Talk to the maker about steel options and you can balance the Price-Corrosion Resistance-Edge Retention triangle.
 
Eh... for some reason the words "custom maker" and "won't be expensive" don't go together in my mind. The most I've ever spent on a knife in my life (personally) was $150. The main reason I didn't buy an actual Folts SPEW back when I could find them online was I couldn't convince myself to pull the trigger at $140. Of course, now I wish I had.

In general though, I like to keep my knives fairly cheap as I tend to lose them and for the most part, the cheaper knives have been serving my needs fairly well. The one nice thing about knives that dull quickly is they also tend to sharpen quick and easy - though the CRKT SPEW is a little too far in that direction for my tastes.
 
As John said that's overkill on the materials on a necker like that and as uggarguy (dude, you can recommend pretty much the same folks I can now) said there are a lot of less expensive options for neck knives out there that will perform just fine.

What does your food prep involve and does your box cutting involve cutting cardboard?
 
I don't know if this will meet your needs but I neck carry an ESEE Izula without scales, very thin and strong, full flat grind with 1095. I also pop on an ESSE Candiru, smaller with a Saber grind. Both are very strong and hold an edge. Their is also Kydex available for them and I do pocket carry them. They go for lower than $50 on BladeHQ and are guaranteed for Life by ESSE. I like the looks of the Bark River PSK. They have them in elmax with a leather sheath on blade HQ for about $115 depending on the scale material.
 
Well, I impulse bought the Bravo Necker 2 from Bark River after I saw a particularly good price on one. It came with canvas micarta scales, a leather neck sheath with a rare earth magnet within, and the knife. John Shirley very accurately and succinctly described the knife.

As promised, it is indeed thick spined. It appears to be about as thick as my Becker BK16 though since the blade is smaller it looks even thicker. The scales are great - good control without being super aggressive on texture. The handle allows a cramped four fingered grip. Longer than my SPEW but shorter than the Rift. Unfortunately, with the scales and thick leather sheath, the knife ends up being only a hair thinner than the Rift and not noticeably lighter. It also isn't especially fast to deploy from the pocket between the leather and magnet.

On the plus side, the edge is amazing. Most of my knives are in the $20-100 range and have a distinct edge bevel. Even the few high end gifted knives I have have the same distinct edge bevel. This knife has a high convex grind that just disappears into the edge. When I first got it, I thought maybe they had forgotten to sharpen it; but a quick test showed it was hair-popping sharp with a fine edge of maybe 13-15 degrees per side.

Since I'd purchased a Wicked Edge a few years back, there haven't been any factory edges that I didn't feel I could improve on. So throwing the knife on the WE is usually one of the first things I do. This was an exception. I'm not sure I can improve on the factory edge and I'm a bit worried I can sharpen it back to that level when it eventually dulls. Out of the box, it cuts like a light saber. With the thick spine though, it does sometimes feel like it is wedging things apart rather than slicing them when push cutting.

Overall, it is a very high quality knife; but as I was warned here, it is built towards a different role than what I had in mind. In profile and use it reminds me a bit of a Becker BK16 that someone shrunk in the wash. It would probably make a great outdoors knife for someone who wanted something more low-key or lighter. A kydex sheath might also help on cutting down on weight and thickness.

I did discover the rare earth magnet is strong enough that I can piggy back the SPEW on the BN2 just by slapping the SPEW's kydex sheath against the magnet, so it has that going for it. I'm not really sure how I feel about it at the moment. It is a little bigger than I wanted for a pocket knife with less grip and blade than the Rift; but I do like the way it cuts.
 
Since I'd purchased a Wicked Edge a few years back, there haven't been any factory edges that I didn't feel I could improve on. So throwing the knife on the WE is usually one of the first things I do. This was an exception. I'm not sure I can improve on the factory edge and I'm a bit worried I can sharpen it back to that level when it eventually dulls. Out of the box, it cuts like a light saber. With the thick spine though, it does sometimes feel like it is wedging things apart rather than slicing them when push cutting.

It's possible to use a Wicked Edge on a convex grind? I thought those convex grinds required a mousepad, etc. Just curious.
 
Bart, I have a Gary Wheeler hand made necker that I paid $60 for a few years ago. It has pinned on micarta scales that have some machining on them, and it's made from O1 tool steel.

You truly could get someone like Gary, or Kim Breed (or someone else who's known within the knife community but not a hyped name) to make you what you want without it being expensive. Handles cost in material, fitting, and affixing to the knife. Go with no handles and you've cut a chunk out of the price. Thinner bar stock is cheaper than thicker bar stock, so that desire of yours further cuts the cost. If you aren't worried about corrosion resistance simple tool steels are cheap. Really good stainless steels like 440C are cheap, and most heat treating services have no problem with such a common steel. Even really high end steels like Elmax, M390, S90V, etc aren't that much more expensive, but the specialized heat treat and the more difficult grinding are what will create the bulk of the price increase.

Here's are a few examples of steel prices from Alpha to give you an idea:

CPM S90V Stainless Steel .176" thick 11.6" long 1.6" wide $29
440C Stainless Steel (Crucible) .170" 12.3" 2.0" $15
D2 Carbon Steel (Bohler K110) .164" 11.6" 1.5" $13
 
ugaarguy, thanks for the tip. I haven't seen custom knives at that pricepoint so I had no idea that was possible. Some of Sam's "Shivver" prototypes have been tempting me sorely already as that blade shape is very similar to the SPEW.

It's possible to use a Wicked Edge on a convex grind? I thought those convex grinds required a mousepad, etc. Just curious.

The package I bought comes with two strops (leather glued to a block), so it is basically the same thing you would use to sharpen a convex grind anyway.

You can also make a flat bevel into a convex one but it requires a bit more work as you basically have to sharpen the knife repeatedly at 1 degree intervals and then strop the knife to flow the multiple tiny shoulders together.

The main problem I could see with sharpening a Bark River on the WE is that the factory angle is already at the high end of what the WE allows. I might end up needing the high angle kit for this if I keep it.
 
Pro-tip for pocket carry: Rare earth magnets in a knife sheath do not play well with a wide variety of things you carry in your pockets.
 
Like phones and flash drives and wireless keys?:evil:

Bart,

You don't want to use a Wicked Edge on it. Read the sharpening sticky (although the short version is to get some very high grit paper and strop on it with a backing that has just a little give).

As you've found out, the BRK is awfully thick for the role and as already pointed out there are knives out there in your price range had the impulse not overcome the conversation. Get an Izula from ESSE or the Eskabar from KaBar and run a head to head against them.
 
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Yes, things that store data magnetically do not do well :eek: - and it isn't always convenient when you pull out your normal keys and a knife is stuck to them either.

I'm familiar with the mousepad method of doing a convex edge and have experimented with it a few times. My thinking here was that the WE strops would basically be the same thing since they already have a bit of give to them - just better control of the angle (and I wouldn't scratch up that pretty polish job on my sandpaper covered mousepad).

I've successfully converted several V-edges to convex edges on the Wicked Edge and had good luck - of course, with those I knew every angle on the edge because I put it there - and it was basically a flat or saber grind where just the bevel was convexed. This is my first knife where a) the whole grind is convexed and b) I'm not 100% on what the edge bevel angle actually is.

I'm not too concerned with the actual edge bevel as the strops have enough give that I often back a few degrees off the edge and strop at that angle with good results. Did you have some particular concern about using the WE on a convexed edge? You are more knowledgable in this area so if I'm about to hose something up, I'm interested in hearing your opinion on that subject.

If it is just a "save time/work" kind of thing, then I'm less concerned since I enjoy having that level of control over the edge, even if it is a bit of work. I don't plan on letting the edge get to where it needs more than stropping to bring it back (which should be easy enough given how well it is holding an edge).
 
I've carried a pocket knife for 40 years and understand the value of the tool. What makes a neck carry good? I've seen them but don't fully understand the why.
 
Depends on the situation. In general, I don't prefer neck carry. It's especially appropriate if you may want a knife when you have no clothes.

Seriously.
 
I couldn't tell you as I don't neck carry either; but I have gotten to where I am beginning to prefer small fixed blade knives for pocket carry over folders. While this knife was advertised as a "Necker", I was mainly looking for something to replace either my SPEW or my Rift as a pocket knife and a lot of the "neckers" are right in that convenient size range.

If I ever magically got my belly as flat as it was when I was 23, those knives also work pretty good just shoved behind a belt buckle at an angle.

The Bravo Necker 2 is a great little knife; but I think I am going to take up JShirley on his offer for something a little lighter and flatter.
 
I came across the Bravo Necker II and I am really liking the specs. Anyone have any input on it?
Not specifically on the Necker II, but I have one of the original Neckers and its a very nice neck knife. High quality and fits my hand very well.

Eh... for some reason the words "custom maker" and "won't be expensive" don't go together in my mind. The most I've ever spent on a knife in my life (personally) was $150.
I've picked up a couple of nice, smaller "custom" fixed blades in the $100-150 price range from new makers who have not developed a following yet. There are bargains out there if you look.
 
SPEW? Really?

Color me ignorant or ill-informed but at least two companies have named their knives "SPEW"?

I'm guessing with todays ninjified... "operator" marketing that S is for "special" and W is for "weapon". What's the rest of SPEW... I mean other than peas or broccoli?

Todd.
 
The CRKT SPEW stands for "Small Pocket Everday Wharncliffe", which last time I looked, even though the SPEW was a lot more pointy than my Boy Scout wharncliffe pocket knife (and fixed blade instead of non-locking folder), it was also slightly shorter and made of softer steel. I don't think wharncliffes have been regarded as especially "tactical" for quite some time (if ever).

The Bravo Necker II is maybe 1/4" longer than the SPEW and a drop point but is maybe 3 times thicker than my Boy Scout knife, and the CPM 3V blade with convex grind is a thing of beauty. I've tended towards cheap knives for most of my life, so maybe it isn't all that impressive to aficianados but it came from the factory sharper than a Mora and has held that edge even after I cut limes with it and freckled the entire non-stainless blade with rust (although it doesn't appear any of that reached the edge).

I am really loving the knife. I can push cut a tomato in transparent slices with the factory edge - and it just keeps that edge long after anything else I own; but the thing is, it is like a mini-version of a knife that I don't need a mini-version of.

The SPEW is exactly what I want; I just want at least as good steel as my $5 kitchen knife to go with it.
 
OP, I am just curious if you wanted to provide an update on your Necker II. I like the design and am curious if you still have positive impressions.
 
Folts named his knife that and CRKT offers a licensed copy. Is that the two SPEWs?

Any way, it was asked why carry a knife on a neck lanyard? A pocket clip version is much handier for EDC in my job, and highly useful.

I've worn knives on neck lanyards canoeing down the White River in Arkansas, when you want it fast and need it bad it's available right out in front of you without being trapped in your pocket sitting down in the thwarts - just the same as a pistol being difficult to retrieve when driving a car with seat belts.

Just the same rappelling off the local cliffs on Shoal Creek - with swiss seat or manufactured one, a knife at the belt or in the pocket is also trapped under the harness and generally useless when needed. If your clothing is snagged up in a carabiner, you just need to cutaway - no sense harassing the mud dauber wasps you are discovering face to face.

Miltary - same again. Using the older suspenders and pistol belt, or the newer LBV, a neck knife is there, on you, especially if the kit was dropped for sleep in a quiet area, bathing, etc. A knife on your gear ten feet away in a suddenly hostile situation isn't handy.

Same in public - either on leave somewhere about in a rear area where it's supposed to be safe. And that's when it begins to approach our normal life - CCW or not, that knife can be more readily accessible, or more a surprise when someone saw you didn't seem prepared. It's the natural tendency of someone preying on others to ambush them, and they usually pick those who might appear less able to respond.

Many of us might look look able, regardless or our training and experience, but it doesn't mean that we have to be subject to their aggression.

Given that the neck knife can and will be on you, all the while not that visible under a shirt, it allows you to choose utility knives that might not be as well designed for defense. Consider the combination I wore today, a MTech 667 necker, with a Gerber Mini Reflex for the openly conducted chores. I've used the Reflex enough not to give it any value in a defensive role as it's size makes it hard to open easily and the fingerhole too small to comfortably grip. The 667 is the opposite - actually larger with a positive grip that is more ergonomic and it actually works better cutting up boxes, etc.

If having a lark with other knives is important without degrading your personal security - go neck knife. I've collected a few and used them over the years, they have a purpose aside from just being a different way to carry. The knives themselves as a whole explore some interesting directions that a clipped folder can't do as well. A folding knife has demands on it because it must fold, and because of that it becomes restricted in it's design. A neck knife is free of those demands and can even use elements that some would expect to be misinterpreted or even offensive to public perception - just the same as some much larger fixed blades would be considered "commie killer combat knives" and inappropriate on the job or about in public, same as a gun might be unwelcome on the job.

The knife has a lot less repercussion if exposed, and won't be as likely a reason to get you fired.

And as many in law enforcement or military service have found, can be the edge in hand to hand grappling when the firearm is compromised. You have at least something in bad circumstances, which is, as they say, better than nothing when you need it.

I use a clipped pocket knife a lot more, and a small flashlight more frequently yet, but the neck knife not at all, and I hope not to under dire circumstance. It could be said the same for a carry pistol, too - but at least the knife cuts things better than the gun.
 
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