Anybody anodizing aluminum at home?
- Thread starter DIY_guy
- Start date
- Status
The problem with anodizing aluminum parts (other then the obvious) is that all steel parts must be removed first. This includes the studs in a revolver frame that the hammer, trigger and sometimes other parts rotate on. Also steel barrels have to be removed, as well as bushings around the firing pin, and sometimes the cylinder center pin.
At the factory frames are anodized before any of the above, as well as other steel parts are assembled.
At the factory frames are anodized before any of the above, as well as other steel parts are assembled.
fletcher
Member
I recently anodized two lowers at home - it was pretty easy. Just follow the general concepts for the "LCD Method" (search at Caswell Plating).
For the power supply, I used a 5A/24V switching supply from eBay. I originally purchased it for electrolytic etching, but it provided more than enough current density to do one lower at a time.
General process I used was:
- Blast lowers to an even matte finish.
- Deoxidize using Caswell's solution.
- Rinse with distilled water.
- Set up sulfuric acid bath (composition per Caswell LCD method). Sulfuric acid used was battery acid from local O'Reilly Auto. I used a fish tank air pump to provide agitation, lead sheet for the cathode, and titanium wire to hold the lowers. The latter two were purchased from Caswell.
- Rack part and begin anodizing.
- Rinse part with distilled water.
- Transfer to dye bath. Good dyes (i.e. ones specifically for anodizing) should be used.
- Rinse with distilled water.
- Seal in boiling water.
Results are below. I'm in the process of refinishing the orange one because of those spots.
For the power supply, I used a 5A/24V switching supply from eBay. I originally purchased it for electrolytic etching, but it provided more than enough current density to do one lower at a time.
General process I used was:
- Blast lowers to an even matte finish.
- Deoxidize using Caswell's solution.
- Rinse with distilled water.
- Set up sulfuric acid bath (composition per Caswell LCD method). Sulfuric acid used was battery acid from local O'Reilly Auto. I used a fish tank air pump to provide agitation, lead sheet for the cathode, and titanium wire to hold the lowers. The latter two were purchased from Caswell.
- Rack part and begin anodizing.
- Rinse part with distilled water.
- Transfer to dye bath. Good dyes (i.e. ones specifically for anodizing) should be used.
- Rinse with distilled water.
- Seal in boiling water.
Results are below. I'm in the process of refinishing the orange one because of those spots.
jmorris
Member
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2005
- Messages
- 24,211
You may find this interesting.
http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,9113.0.html
If I ever get into it that would be the direction I would follow.
http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,9113.0.html
If I ever get into it that would be the direction I would follow.
BBBBill
Member
I prefer the look of Type 2 (think old S&W Model 39-2 or Airweight revolver), but the currently common Type 3 is said to be far more durable/protective. Glad you started this thread. I need to investigate a DIY setup for myself.
I haven't tried using the dyes. But I have had great success anodizing with sulfuric acid, and aluminum foil. A friend tried using a dye that was not specifically made for this, and it didn't work very well. I'm a member of the keep it simple stupid crowds, so I simply did a light spray with Rust oleum flat black paint, and it has been great.
Those dyed parts look awesome.
Those dyed parts look awesome.
loose noose
Member
docsleepy, has it right, I've tried anodizing numerous times and it just doesn't seem to work as advertised. The last firearm I tried to do was an older model Savage .22LR that I built for my grandson. After removing the barrel and the rest of the paraphernalia, I simply polished the receiver and used a can of Rustoleum black and spray painted it about 2 years ago and it still looks good to this day, with at least 1000 rounds thru it.
Nickb45
Member
Fletcher, if you don't mind, how much money do you think you have into doing it all yourself?
fletcher
Member
The entire setup, including consumable materials, for anodizing those lowers was ~$200. Cost broke down roughly as follows:
-Power Supply $80
-Battery Acid $6
-Deoxidizer/Desmut $18
-Titanium Wire $5
-Orange 2B Dye $15
-Grey BL Dye $15
-Lead Sheet $12
-Aquarium Air pump (for agitation) $15
-Buckets $15
-Several Gallons of Distilled Water $10
Nickb45
Member
Not too bad, I usually send my parts down to Portland, there is nobody that does it locally. I wouldn't mind setting up to do it myself for some side projects. The place I send to usually has $100 minimum. I mostly send black parts but if I want something a different color it cost me $100.
Thanks.
fletcher
Member
My power supply is a generic lab power supply I purchased from eBay - 5A, 24V. I didn't need high precision, so it was perfect for anodizing and electrolytic etching. Looking again, it seems that newer models with more voltage/current are available at the same price point. Mine looks just like these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30V-10AMP-10A-Precision-Lab-Digital-DC-Power-Supply-110-220V-Adjustable-Variable-/121180217848?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c36e761f8
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-DC-Power-Supply-30V-5A-Precision-Variable-Adjustable-Lab-Grade-/140675103345?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20c0e3ba71
Two notes on selection of a power supply:
1) Adjustable for constant current will make using the "LCD Method" much easier. Lab power supplies like the above can be constant voltage or constant current (will adjust the other to maintain).
2) Current provided by the power supply should be sufficient to provide the necessary current density (current divided by part surface area). The target is generally around 6 amps/square foot. AR15 lowers have ~0.5 square feet of surface area, IIRC.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30V-10AMP-10A-Precision-Lab-Digital-DC-Power-Supply-110-220V-Adjustable-Variable-/121180217848?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c36e761f8
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-DC-Power-Supply-30V-5A-Precision-Variable-Adjustable-Lab-Grade-/140675103345?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20c0e3ba71
Two notes on selection of a power supply:
1) Adjustable for constant current will make using the "LCD Method" much easier. Lab power supplies like the above can be constant voltage or constant current (will adjust the other to maintain).
2) Current provided by the power supply should be sufficient to provide the necessary current density (current divided by part surface area). The target is generally around 6 amps/square foot. AR15 lowers have ~0.5 square feet of surface area, IIRC.
ApacheCoTodd
member
Remember when you get to trying it that, as with most metal finishing, uniform surface prep is hugely important if you're persnickety about appearance.
- Status
