Anyone doing this? Practical??

[Averageman]

I have a Ruger 10-22 and aparently this gun has become an obsession.
stock reciever on a Houge overmolded stock with a SS Stainless bull barrel from Midway.
Recently I decided to add a new scope and got a very good deal on a Nikon Buckmasters 3X9-40 with the BDC. The idea of this was to be able to crank up the magnification and plink away at 100 yds and beyond.
Again this is becomming an obsession as I had a Burris Fastfire sitting in a box just looking for something to do. The Fastfire is now mounted on top of the Nikon.
The Nikon is sitting in some Warne rings that give it about 1/4 inch clearance on the barrel and the mount I got from O.P. is sitting just behind the elevation turret and puts the Fastfire about 3 inches over the center of the bore.

So my questions are:
1) Has anyone here tried the same thing?
2) With this much scope is it practical to zero the Nikon first at 25 and then refine a 100 yd zero?
3) My intent is to zero the Burris at 25 yds, hopefully the 3 inches over the center of the bore will allow enough adjustment, is this possible?
4) Has anyone else tried this with this scope and had any luck using the built in BDC with a .22LR?
Thanks
A/M

 

[ford8nr]

You can use the BDC, you'll just have to figure what it's values are at a given magnifacion. I shoot steel Silohette from 25 to 100 yds. One league shoots 25, 50, 75 and 100yds in a timed event. I shoot a 10/22LVT with a 15x Weaver (just changed to a 6-18x Redfield) using just hold over/off. Sighted at 50yds it's on at 25, 1-1/2" low at 75 and 6" low at 100. The other league is traditional 40m, 60m, 80m and 100 meter. This league I use a CZ452 with a Tasco Target scope set at 20x. Scope turret adjustments are recorded and taped to the stock for quick reference between courses.

 

[Averageman]

using just hold over/off. Sighted at 50yds it's on at 25, 1-1/2" low at 75 and 6" low at 100.

So with that if I sight the Burris in at 50, I can work out to 75 pretty easily. Just save the Nikon for out past 100 and work the details out with the BDC from there.
I boresighted the scope and gave the Burris a rough adjustment in the backyard. I just need to get out to the rage and see if the whole thing will cooperate.
Thanks
A/M

 

[Andrew Wyatt]

when i had an acog on my 10-22 at 3 inches over the bore it was zeroed at 25 and 75.


I have since replaced it with a vortex diamondback 3-9X40 with BDC reticle. its zeroed at 50 right now.

 

[ford8nr]

The hold over will be different with something 3" over the bore. Go the the Federal Cartridge web site, they have a ballistic calculator you can enter scope high above the bore and initial distance and it will calculate holdovers.

 

[hardluk1]

Not practical for me. No extra red dot wanted. We do use mil dots on the .22lrs Zeroed at 75 yards and use the mils dots for hold over with out and under out to 200 yards. make a cheat sheet to use if needed .

 

[jmr40]

Sorta. Same stock, Simmons 4-12 scope with a Cabelas barrel. I wouldn't put the dot sight on top of the scope. Instead I'd either buy a separate gun, or invest in QD mounts. I don't think you'd have any trouble at 100. I've shot at 100 and got some groups of 1/2". Never tried 200, but will eventually.

 

[desidog]

I think that your positioning of the secondary above the scope leaves a lot to be desired. You won't be able to transition smoothly stretching your neck; and you'll loose cheek weld. Further, if you're using the dot is a close-contact sight, having it that far off the bore axis will make it hard to be consistently accurate.

I recommend a offset base like this set in between your scope rings. That way you rotate the gun, and the sight is closer to the bore axis.

 

[Arizona_Mike]

Lots of people are "doing it".


Burris sells this setup:

1. Yes
2. Yes
3. Yes, more than enough (standard AR15 height is 2.9 inches over center of bore)
4. Never tried it myself but I have a tube based red dot on my 10/22 at exactly 2.9" over bore.

Mike

 

[BCRider]

Burris might be selling such a combo but it's still a poor way to go to have the close in sight so high above the bore axis.

What I'd do, and I might just follow through with this idea, is set up the scope AND the comb heights for a nice solid cheek weld if you are shooting offhand for the distant shots. Then set up a 30 to 45 degree angled Weaver rail to the side so you can pivot the comb line in the notch of your cheek bone to angle the rifle and have the Fastfire line up correctly for the close in stuff.

This way the Fastfire is down low and close to the bore axis and there is far less parallax error to deal with. This makes the Fastfire more useable over a wider range of distance for the close in stuff.

Otherwise with the Fastfire up high if you set it up for 20 yards zero it'll be shooting way high by 30 yards and way low at 10 to 15. And that's not the whole point of a useable close in red dot.

The key to making this all work is to find that comb line riser that gives you the right cheek weld for BOTH line ups. If you can do that then rotating the rifle between each sighting option becomes fast, easy and mostly automatic.

Or simply buy a 1-4. 4x should be fine for most plinking.

It's a different story if you want to switch from bench rested shooting to close in free style plinking. Then you still want the red dot to be down low. But with bench resting I find that I really don't want any contact with the rifle that I can avoid. So a set of tall look thru rings that let's you see the Fastfire mounted up ahead of the scope with the scope sitting tall and looking over the Fastfire sight line would be an option. Such a setup would be clumsy for most free standing use and it would certainly not look compact and clean. But it would work.

 

[Arizona_Mike]

When you said the Fastfire is 3" over bore do you mean the red dot or the base? With the Picatinny base, the Fastfire is ~0.83" from rail to dot.

Mike

 

[hardluk1]

Still a foolish way to mount an extra optic.

 

[Averageman]

Apparently it can be done, but it aint easy working it all out.
The end result is the Nikon is sighted in at 100 and the Burris is sighted in at 25.
The Burris Fastfire III ended up on the forward edge of the Nikon and mounted at about an 8 O'clock position. Rotate the stock clockwise and the red dot appears right in your eye.
There was not enough adjustment in the Burris to mount it above the Nikon at the 12 O'clock position.

 

[Averageman]

Having worked with this to get it perfected, it's a heck of a lot of fun and very practical once you have it set up right.
Give it a try, you'll enjoy it.

 

[jehu]

I have a Ruger 10-22 and aparently this gun has become an obsession.
stock reciever on a Houge overmolded stock with a SS Stainless bull barrel from Midway.
Recently I decided to add a new scope and got a very good deal on a Nikon Buckmasters 3X9-40 with the BDC. The idea of this was to be able to crank up the magnification and plink away at 100 yds and beyond.
Again this is becomming an obsession as I had a Burris Fastfire sitting in a box just looking for something to do. The Fastfire is now mounted on top of the Nikon.
The Nikon is sitting in some Warne rings that give it about 1/4 inch clearance on the barrel and the mount I got from O.P. is sitting just behind the elevation turret and puts the Fastfire about 3 inches over the center of the bore.

So my questions are:
1) Has anyone here tried the same thing?
2) With this much scope is it practical to zero the Nikon first at 25 and then refine a 100 yd zero?
3) My intent is to zero the Burris at 25 yds, hopefully the 3 inches over the center of the bore will allow enough adjustment, is this possible?
4) Has anyone else tried this with this scope and had any luck using the built in BDC with a .22LR?
Thanks
A/M

The 10/22 is a great rifle and I have customized many. But go to the Volquartsen web site for the next step in your quest for 22lr perfection.

 

[d2wing]

Sounds like fun. I might do that on my AR.