Anyone willing to do a paper cartridge tutorial?

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maint1517

maint1517

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I know some of you guys have a lot of experience with paper cartridges. I was hoping one of you would be willing to start a thread, a tutorial if you will. Showing start to finish how to make paper cartridges for BP revolvers with instructions and pictures.
I know this is asking a lot. But it would benefit not only myself, but other forum members as well.
 
maint1517 said:
I know some of you guys have a lot of experience with paper cartridges. I was hoping one of you would be willing to start a thread, a tutorial if you will. Showing start to finish how to make paper cartridges for BP revolvers with instructions and pictures.
I know this is asking a lot. But it would benefit not only myself, but other forum members as well.
Click to expand...
Look for Washbuster at Gunslinger's Gulch. he has one on there and on You Tube.
 
When I read this I thought ‘what tools’, all you need is a proper shaped mandrel but then I remembered you need a solid based bullet tray, a measuring device, some paste/glue, cig papers and that’s about it, unless I forgot something. Oh yea, powder and lead. What’d I leave out, guys?

I recommend every C&B shooter learn how to ‘home roll’, it’s a very satisfying and useful thing to do. On a wet windy day in the field it’s beyond cool to have ready-made carts.

Some of those vids demonstrate the very most complicated way to home roll. Short of a formal tutorial we could just talk about it here, maybe.

post scriptum - scissors
 
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Look up svartkrutt.net, someone from there used to post in this forum. I believe they are in Sweden. They have great videos on paper cartridges and I have ordered supplies from them also. No problems shipping to Nebraska and very helpful.
 
Some nitrate their own rolling papers. IIRC you dissolve Potasium Nitrate in water and wet the paper. Lay it out to dry then cut your papers to size. I think this works for making fuse also. But I have never done it. My bud did but didn't do a good job of dissoling the Nitrate. His fuses were sorta crusty. But they worked. After a fashion.:thumbup:
 
Some guys use commercial stump remover for that, it's KNO₃ but I find that unnecessary. I use American Spirit rolling papers, those are made from flax and burns up real well. Burnt paper residue in the chambers has never been a problem in my case. Hemp papers work really well too. But don't inhale !!! (funnin').
 
I, too, have used the American Spirits papers and like them. Leaves little shards of paper often enough but hasn’t been a problem for me either.

I also bought stump remover and tried it, but didn’t like it. It just made a powdery mess. Not worth the effort in my opinion.
 
holl said:
Look up svartkrutt.net, someone from there used to post in this forum. I believe they are in Sweden. They have great videos on paper cartridges and I have ordered supplies from them also. No problems shipping to Nebraska and very helpful.
Click to expand...
This video gives the formula the make your mandrel and pattern for papers.
 
6771C164-BF4B-4346-B42F-0D4CF997267E.jpeg 3D39303E-8F89-4665-9796-5C27986732A1.jpeg On the days I get really creative, I’ve ordered and used magician flash paper(burns extremely clean).
As stated above,
Rolling papers, school glue stick(purple works best), I’ll take measurements of my dowel that I sanded for tapering the paper(.36) and post it.
 
I’ve made the acquaintance of a couple of 60 + year old men who have been shooting C&B since they were 12 and they both use tea bags because they are heavier and stronger than cig papers = but neither really like to make carts. They use theirs mostly in Sharps these days.

My opinion is that cig paper is plenty strong enough. I was finishing some shots in very low light and dropped one and then I stepped on it. Got out my flashlight thinking to just retrieve the lead but by-gawd the whole cart was just fine. When stretched with a little tension those things are pretty durable, surprisingly so.

When I first started making these things I used grits or Cream of Wheat to get the hang of the process (prefer CoW cause it’s less oily and doesn't clump up or bridge in the spout). It beats getting your good powder all over the place. Two or three or four practice CoW carts and you’re ready for the real thing.

Starting out with round ball carts is good for those unfamiliar with the process. Conicals are more demanding in terms of shape and size of the paper part. Some guys have used a Dremel to enlarge the loading port area (top corner by the cylinder face) on their Rems and Colts specifically for lots of powder for heavy conical cartridges. I’ve not done that on my own guns but am limited to 30 grains with a 190 grain boolet.
 
Eyrie G. Dogg said:
I’ve made the acquaintance of a couple of 60 + year old men who have been shooting C&B since they were 12 and they both use tea bags because they are heavier and stronger than cig papers = but neither really like to make carts. They use theirs mostly in Sharps these days.

My opinion is that cig paper is plenty strong enough. I was finishing some shots in very low light and dropped one and then I stepped on it. Got out my flashlight thinking to just retrieve the lead but by-gawd the whole cart was just fine. When stretched with a little tension those things are pretty durable, surprisingly so.

When I first started making these things I used grits or Cream of Wheat to get the hang of the process (prefer CoW cause it’s less oily and doesn't clump up or bridge in the spout). It beats getting your good powder all over the place. Two or three or four practice CoW carts and you’re ready for the real thing.

Starting out with round ball carts is good for those unfamiliar with the process. Conicals are more demanding in terms of shape and size of the paper part. Some guys have used a Dremel to enlarge the loading port area (top corner by the cylinder face) on their Rems and Colts specifically for lots of powder for heavy conical cartridges. I’ve not done that on my own guns but am limited to 30 grains with a 190 grain boolet.
Click to expand...

The Pietta Remington needs opening up just to accept a conical. Mine certainly did, and I typically load loose components, but use 30 grns with it anyway as it’s more accurate with that load (I use an adjustable rifle measure which has graduations in 10 grn increments which is easy to eyeball 5 grns so I haven’t tried but 25, 30, and 35 grns).
 
I use the 45-190’s from an Accurate Mold, DD4USMC brewed them up. They clear on my Pietta 1860’s and Remington's. I have to size the base just a little first to seat them but they turn in under the rammer just fine.

An early cartridge showing friction marks from inserting in the chamber and scraping on the loading port edge. It's a work in progress.
 

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Eyrie G. Dogg said:
I use the 45-190’s from an Accurate Mold, DD4USMC brewed them up. They clear on my Pietta 1860’s and Remington's. I have to size the base just a little first to seat them but they turn in under the rammer just fine.

An early cartridge showing friction marks from inserting in the chamber and scraping on the loading port edge. It's a work in progress.
Click to expand...

I’ve bought a bit of various stuff from him. Good guy to work with for sure.

I’m surprised that worked on a Pietta Remington NMA. I’ve read of people having fits trying to get the Lee RN to work. Not surprising mine didn’t as I designed mine with a wide meplat. Even my shorty (.400”) 170 grn bullet wouldn’t fit.

http://accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=45-170C-D.png
 
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