Pepe Domingo
Member
AR-15.com is down right now, but I am sure that somebody here can help. In fact, there is a somewhat similar thread I found on search, but it didn't really resolve the issue.
Here goes......
I have a new AR-10 carbine that I really like. However, the trigger on it, though suitable for a battle rifle, is not really condusive to extreme accuracy. I really wanted to put in a NM trigger to see how much more accurate I could get. Problem is that a NM trigger runs at least $100 and I do not have that kind of bread right now.
Then I realized that I already have a great NM trigger in my RRA .223 carbine. I thought that I would just swap triggers and everything would go bang. The RRA is actually better suited to a heavier single stage trigger anyway. It is my understanding that the AR-10 and AR-15 type rifles use the same trigger assemblies.
I went ahead and did the swap. I am no great shakes as a gunsmith, but it seemed super easy. Remove Pin A, remove Pin B, replace assemblies and....thats all there was to do.
Okay, next day I take both rifles out for a spin. My AR-10 is now a single shot weapon. It will fire the first chambered round, eject the casing, load the next one and the hammer will not stay cocked. The RRA is running fine and is very happy.
I took the AR-10 apart and pulled the trigger asm. and cleaned it. Upon reassmbly and cycling, it worked fine. I could cycle the action and the hammer would cock and fire. However, I did discover that if I held onto the trigger, the hammer would not pick up and cock. Apparently, when I fire the weapon, my finger is still putting enough pressure on the trigger to cauase whatever is happening.
HELP!!!! I love this rifle and the trigger has shrunk my groups in half, shooting one round at a time. :banghead:
Pepe Out
Here goes......
I have a new AR-10 carbine that I really like. However, the trigger on it, though suitable for a battle rifle, is not really condusive to extreme accuracy. I really wanted to put in a NM trigger to see how much more accurate I could get. Problem is that a NM trigger runs at least $100 and I do not have that kind of bread right now.
Then I realized that I already have a great NM trigger in my RRA .223 carbine. I thought that I would just swap triggers and everything would go bang. The RRA is actually better suited to a heavier single stage trigger anyway. It is my understanding that the AR-10 and AR-15 type rifles use the same trigger assemblies.
I went ahead and did the swap. I am no great shakes as a gunsmith, but it seemed super easy. Remove Pin A, remove Pin B, replace assemblies and....thats all there was to do.
Okay, next day I take both rifles out for a spin. My AR-10 is now a single shot weapon. It will fire the first chambered round, eject the casing, load the next one and the hammer will not stay cocked. The RRA is running fine and is very happy.
I took the AR-10 apart and pulled the trigger asm. and cleaned it. Upon reassmbly and cycling, it worked fine. I could cycle the action and the hammer would cock and fire. However, I did discover that if I held onto the trigger, the hammer would not pick up and cock. Apparently, when I fire the weapon, my finger is still putting enough pressure on the trigger to cauase whatever is happening.
HELP!!!! I love this rifle and the trigger has shrunk my groups in half, shooting one round at a time. :banghead:
Pepe Out
