Ar-15 Build Question

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gunner.357

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I have just bought an aero precision stripped lower which I am making into a military m4 look-alike. My question for now (more pending) is what is the base line of tools you need to install the lower parts kit? I know there are fancy jigs and doodads to make it easier but what is the cheapest/barebones way of assembling a lower assuming I have no AR-15 tools at all? Thanks.
 
Not sure of the cheapest tool kits but Wheeler Engineering offers an AR15 Armorer's Kit that will let you get the job done.

Harry
 
I believe that all I bought was a set of punches. There are other tools, but most well equipped garages have those. Use tape and be careful. Others certainly know more than me about it. I bought a preassembled trigger kit which made it easier.
 
yeah I have an extensive array of normal tools so that gets rid of that check. are they all roll punches or other?
 
You don't "need" any tools to assemble the lower. roll pin punches definitely are a big help. You will want something to tighten the castle nut. If you don't want to buy a tool you can use a strap wrench or locking pliers.

I prefer using a small brass hammer like a watch makers hammer to knock stuff in then a large hammer. It tends to be more forgiving then a steel one if you hit a pin too hard it won't mushroom as easy.

If you want a lower receiver vise block it helps hold the lower in place. I have one of those big "do everything" stlye AR15 armorers wrench that I use. It can be used for the delta ring / barrel nut (upper), removing or adding a birdcage / flash suppressor, punching the take down pins, tightening the castle nut, etc. You can get them for about $25
 
Use tape and be careful.
Click to expand...

Especialy for your first ones. One in needs to be bange in sideways. You swing the hammer like an inch from the frame. I take electrical tape and tape up the side in case my hammer misses or slides off hen I strike the pin.

I learned to use tape after I put a nice log scratch across my first AR build.
 
You don't "need" any tools to assemble the lower. roll pin punches definitely are a big help. You will want something to tighten the castle nut. If you don't want to buy a tool you can use a strap wrench or locking pliers.

I prefer using a small brass hammer like a watch makers hammer to knock stuff in then a large hammer. It tends to be more forgiving then a steel one if you hit a pin too hard it won't mushroom as easy.

If you want a lower receiver vise block it helps hold the lower in place. I have one of those big "do everything" stlye AR15 armorers wrench that I use. It can be used for the delta ring / barrel nut (upper), removing or adding a birdcage / flash suppressor, punching the take down pins, tightening the castle nut, etc. You can get them for about $25

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/270937818488
 
Another trick is to use parallel jaw pliers to install most of the roll pins. You get much more control than a hammer and punch. Tape the jaws of the pliers to prevent marking the receiver.

BSW
 
briansmithwins said:
Another trick is to use parallel jaw pliers to install most of the roll pins. You get much more control than a hammer and punch. Tape the jaws of the pliers to prevent marking the receiver.

BSW
Click to expand...
This is how I do all the roll pins.

A brass hammer or drift for the trigger and hammer pins, and either a castle nut wrench or a hammer and drift for the castle nut. Pretty simple.
 
Another trick is to use parallel jaw pliers to install most of the roll pins. You get much more control than a hammer and punch. Tape the jaws of the pliers to prevent marking the receiver.

BSW
Click to expand...

I've also used a c-clamp for this roll. Works like a charm.
 
Thank goodness. I got my lower for cheep to start up a long term project gun and was hoping to not have to put $$$ in tools :)
 
And be sure that the trigger guard ears are supported when doing that pin, or you'll stand a ggod chance of breaking it.

Another cheap "tool" I use is a 2x1/4" clevis pin for inserting the front takedown pin detent.
 
zoom6zoom said:
And be sure that the trigger guard ears are supported when doing that pin, or you'll stand a ggod chance of breaking it.

Another cheap "tool" I use is a 2x1/4" clevis pin for inserting the front takedown pin detent.
Click to expand...

Good reminder on the trigger guard ears.

2x1/4 clevis pin makes inserting the front take down pin detent alot easier. They are available at your local tractor supply emporium or any good hardware store.

As mentioned, pretty all else that is needed is a set of roll pin punches. Plane punches can work in a pinch but the roll pin punches are inexpensive.

And. something to tighten the castle nut on the buffer tube. An armor's wrench will do this as well as some chores on the upper.

I put tape on the frame where a hammer might strike, primarily for the bolt latch.

If you plan to build the upper, more tools will be helpful to have
 
Tool collectors and those who like to impress others with them confuse the issue.

You don't need much more than a pair of vise grip pliers with the jaws taped to start roll pins - just keep tightening the screw down and clamping the jaws, it will get even stubborn pins in. The best pins are the rolled thin leaf spring kind, worse are the rolled heavy wall kind with a split. Regardless, vice grips work.

Then you can set them centered with old dull drill bits and a small hammer. The cone shaped end fits the pin nicely and does the same job as a "roll pin" punch with the small detent to keep from slipping out.

A castle nut wrench is nice, but as said, some non marking pliers or strap wrench can get it done.

Later when tightening the barrel nut a torque wrench really isn't needed, if you know how tight a lug jut should go on, that is the maximum. All that is needed is 30 foot pounds and whatever is left to clear a tooth so the gas tube passes thru. If it's getting uncomfortable just sand the nose slightly with 600 wet and dry as square as possible - I've done it with a literal square against the upper on the rail on a piece of glass with the sandpaper under the nose only. That not only trues it up but will slightly shorten it so that the threading allows the nut to turn just a tag more. They sell fancy tools and shims to do it and since I got it one for free it's nice but not even needed. The high precision builders charge extra for the job - so much for how accurate it actually helps, they guarantee their guns without.

What do I tighten a barrel nut with? 18" channel locks. Nicking up some teeth nobody sees on a gun I plan to drag thru the hillbilly wilderness won't even be noticed. I did recently get the "armorer's" AR15 tool with all the bells and whistles, it's nice for $35 but not needed.

The armorer's tool kit at the company level is to disassemble a larger framed machine gun for maintenance and some small repairs, it's NOT the optimum set of tools for AR assembly. It's not even needed putting your first together, it just gets treated as a holy grail by those who don't own tools much and certainly don't work on things often, either.

Those of us who do can figure out what we have that will work, it's not the tool it's the tool user and his ingenuity that gets the job done.

Vice grips and drill bits. It's not rocket science.
 
I just used a block of wood, a roll pin punch set a regular punch set, castle wrench, a tool made for putting in front take down pin, a rubber hammer, allen wrenches, all went together without any issues have built two using the bare minimum of tools, I just build the lower's I buy the uppers already built,
 
If you are just building one (careful they are addicting) the above techniques work, I used them in my first lower and then my first upper / lower.
Now well into my third complete build with 2 more projects on the horizon I took the plunge and bought a wheeler kit. That was money well spent, has been made the process so much easier and quicker.
 
Tirod covered the minimum. The gunsmithing specific tools I have are just a set of punches, small brass/plastic head gunsmith hammer, set of screw bits and an AR multi wrench. I improvise/get by with anything else.

I use the punches, hammer and screw bit set all the time on different guns so they were well worth the minimal cost.
 
"Tool collectors and those who like to impress others with them confuse the issue." - Tirod

I'm as frugal as the next guy, but will always remember two pieces of advice my father gave me as a youngster:

1. Buy the highest quality tool you can afford;
2. Always use the correct tool for the job.

When amateurs don't use the correct tools, the results of their mistakes wind up in my shop:

Overtorqued and ruined upper receivers, castle nuts with whole teeth missing, lowers with trigger guard tabs broken off, lowers gouged so badly the shiny alloy is visible, roll pins hammered and flared badly enough to be stuck permanently, gas tubes bent and jammed, drill bits broken off in detent pin channels, barrel extension pins sheared...ad nauseum.

Decent quality tools at very reasonable prices found online in two minutes:

NcSTAR Combo Armorer's Wrench - $17.99 [inexpensive and serviceable]
Hemostat Clamp - $2.00 [or free from doctor who's an AR fan :cool:]
Dasco Pro Roll Pin Punch - $3.11

Common usage items from AR tool kit:

Hammer with plastic, Teflon and/or brass faces, a 3" section of cleaning swab [wood end of used Cottontail], old credit card cut and trimmed, tape and a drop of Frog Lube.

I fail to see how spending $25 on tools with very specific, practical, time-saving purposes is confusing any issue; seems like plain ol' common sense to me.

"Vice grips and drill bits. It's not rocket science."

That would certainly be news to the engineers who designed and manufactured the OP's lower.

I have uses for Vice-Grips, worn-out drill bits, Channellock pliers, 3' breaker-bars and 40oz. ball peen hammers but they don't include molesting AR parts.
 
Knipex
knipex-180mm-plier-wrench-59811-3315-p.jpg


...and/or quality c-clamp
View attachment 721324

Magnet
View attachment 721325

Blue or Green masking tape
View attachment 721326

Work bench & vise
View attachment 721327

Tappet wrenches
View attachment 721328

Allen wrenches
View attachment 721329

Ratcheting screwdriver set with bits
View attachment 721330

Aeroshell 33MS
View attachment 721331

NO Vise Grips, NO Channel Locks
 
quick side question. What is the best/price effective place to get surplus USGI grey coated magazines or at least a good copy magazine for my rifle. The only ones I can find are dark black coated and pretty pricey. Thanks.
 
I made the magazine block out of a piece of 1" x 4". I had to narrow it a bit so it would slide into the magazine well then covered the wood with a few wraps of duct tape for a tight fit.

Cost:
Scrap piece of 1x4 for trash pile - 0.
18" duct tape - .0038 cents.
My time - free. It gets me out of house.
 
"What is the best/price effective place to get surplus USGI grey coated magazines,,,"

Local gun show. Don't buy the surplus GIs unless you plan on installing no-tilt followers. Original issue Colt 20-rounders with alloy followers are a great choice but can be pricey.

Current standard: Magpul 30-rounders w/ or w/out windows.
 
The first thing you need is about a half hour on youtube looking at what other people do to build lowers. I bought my first lower last year as a project build, I was hopping that I could do it in a week on my down time. After watching some guy on youtube use a set of Water Pump Pliers and a small pice of electrical tape it took me less than a half hour to put it all together. I have the same pliers that MistWolf shows in his first picture. Some tape around the jaws and I was up stairs in bed with the wife. One out of two was a good time. So much for a winter project was the only thing my wife said when I told her I started and finished it.

Good luck and enjoy!
 
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