AR-15 trigger

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Sentryau2

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Ok so I have the sig m400 enhanced. When I squeeze the trigger there is about a nickle thickness of pull to where it feels like I'm pulling something through jello mixed with rocks (not gritty like sand) Its very consistent tho, it breaks at the same place every time. I mean I can concentrate and pull just enough to get rid of all creep and then when I'm ready increase pressure so it breaks almost immediately with no more trigger creep what so ever. So my question is, if it exists what is the cheapest and easiest way to fix this. Its really only a problem when I have a scope on it (I dont shoot very far with iron sights) but I've been shooting 2 liter soda bottle lids (or attempting to ;) )at 50-150 yards and when I get out there the trigger creep can really throw me off. On a side note is there a way to lessen the trigger weight? My .22lr savage trigger is very light (a bit too light if you ask me) but because its so light I can literally shoot cherry stems off of cherries at 50 yards+
 
Alright thank you. Most likely I'll give this a shot when I get the chance to head to the nearest hardware store (45 minutes away) On a side note for an unknown reason (im just throwing this out there) would it be possible to through harden the trigger and hammer steel?
 
Not without professional heat treating equipment and the knowledge of exactly how and to what standard the metal needs to be treated.
You'd also need to know what steel the parts were made from.

An easier fix is to do what most AR owners do these days for a better trigger. BUY a better trigger. You can buy anything from a drop-in single or double stage trigger, to fully adjustable Match triggers, all that offer a much better trigger pull and better than any amount of gunsmithing to the original trigger can get you.
 
Geisselle Triggers

Not sure if you want to spend the money, but I recently installed a Geisselle 2 stage non adjustable trigger on one of my AR's and just love it. Light, but not too light trigger pull and it breaks really clean.
 
Do the set screw and toothpaste polishing job. A little polishing/mating the parts with toothpaste won't cut deep enough to go thru the layer of hardening, and will only cost a dollar or less. (That is, assuming you brush your teeth with opaque-based toothpaste, not that fancy all-gel kind...)
 
In the cases I've seen, that screw against the trigger doesn't work as advertised. By the time you get the takeup adjusted out, the safety won't engage. I bought a box full of Superior branded lowers that have the setscrew built in. None of them allowed all the takeup to be taken out and still be able to engage the safety.
If you don't like the two stage trigger, spend the $$ to change the fire control group.
 
Mobuck, it works great if you if you are willing to file down the back of the trigger bar a bit. The first time I did it I made and oops and went just a little too far and the safety didn't work anymore. So I built it back up a bit with jb weld and tried again. It's worked great for years. Though I did have to adjust the timing of the trigger disconnect a bit. (90 seconds with some sand paper) To top it all off you can clip and bend springs or buy the jp yellow springs for a lighter pull in addition to creep free. I managed to get a safe, reliable, 0 takeup, barely any creep, 3-4lb trigger using factory parts. Took about an hour, not including screw shopping time and epoxy set time. And most of that was test and fit, test and fit.

And if you are willing to change the trigger, there really is no reason NOT to monkey with yours first. If you don't like it, well, you were planning on a new trigger anyway. Win win.
 
I agree with cougsfan, replacing the trigger assembly is not that expensive, and is a permanent solution, buy once cry once.
Just noticed fariswheel weighed in, so now it's easy.
 
+1000 for the Geissele trigger.
Expensive? Yes. Worth it? ABSOLUTELY!
You can fiddle, you can polish, you can toothpaste, you can pray, you can setscrew, you can do anything you want.
When its all done and you've wasted much time, money and energy to get a GOOD trigger - - - - - - - and failed. You can then spend the $ and get the Geissele. Or one of the other high end triggers for ARs.
When it comes to AR triggers, you pays for what you gets. Do it cheap and its sucks and will not last. Do it right and enjoy it for many years to come.

IM(nv)HO opinion.

Roger
 
Sentry
The M400 is a service carbine, with no pretense on being a competition rifle. The trigger is a typical M4, not the worst at it. I had the same trigger assembly in my 516. I replaced it with a Wilson Combat unit. Better for deliberate target shots, but not like a dramatic makeover. Unless your plan is to make it a benchrest subMOA rifle, there are better ways to spend your money. A DIY trigger job, I have not done that, so would defer to previous posts.
 
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