AR build parties

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If you need any help for another class, let me know. Mid-Ohio ain't even a 1 tank trip from TN. I'd get rid of #1. Or at least move it to the build day.

I'd make it so everyone can signup online somehow, and then provide their parts list so you can check it.
Then just make a single trip 3 day weekend of it. Range time Sunday.

And I'd want at least a couple guys with stripped uppers, low pro gas blocks that need dimples drilled, and long free float keymod tubes. Because the gas block and barrel mounting are 99% of building an AR, and a great thing to demonstrate.

Might also want to demonstrate ripping apart a Colt 6920 so it can be upgraded to a non-kiss rifle. Using a proper barrel vise for flash hider removal, not an upper reciever vise block. Breaking the castle nut loose on the stock, and hammering out the pins of the gas block. I even know someone who can donate a 6920, but he ain't making 2 separate trips to TN. LOL.

I'd recommend:
Any lower parts kit. Stag, Mas, DD is available at any big name hunting store.
Stag, Bushmaster, Spikes, lowers.
Mas Defense for barrels. 16" middy, 14.5" carbines
Any complete stock kit.
Any upper build kit.
Mas, Stag, DD, BCM bolt carrier groups.


Mas Defense for 12"-15" free float tubes. Cheap, easy to install, more durable than the ones they copied. The GTML(Guntech) is a Noveske copy.
http://shop.masdefense.com/GTLKM-12-KEYMOD-FREE-FLOAT-RAIL-RIFLE-GTLKMR.htm
I think I used a very large monkey wrench to torque the barrel nut. it's just a round threaded pipe with some flats. (as you can tell, I'm excited about non-boutique $$$ options that aren't garbage. Cheap rails just a few years ago were terrible)

BCM keymod rails, since you're already familiar with them. They're GTG anyways.

The Ridgeline isn't bad either. Just heavier than the high end rails:
http://shop.masdefense.com/RIDGELINE-125-KEYMOD-FREE-FLOAT-RAIL-RIFLE-KRLR.htm

Mas Defense .75" Steel gas blocks. I recommend drilling one of the gas ports clear through the gas block (ruining it). Then you have a tool for dimpleing barrels. Line up the ruined gas block, drop a pin though the gas port to hold it in place. Gently install one set screw. Drill dimples with a hand drill in the empty screw hole. Remove pin, install identical un-ruined gas block. Then again, you never know, it ain't exactly hard to load a drill press into a truck.

You can make a barrel vice easy enough. Drill a hole in a block of wood or metal the same diameter of the barrel, and then cut it in half and chuck in a vice. That's what i do for flash hiders. I don't want that kind of torque applied to my aluminum upper.

The Magpul BEV block works great for barrel mounting.
 
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hey i like that mas defense for $90! looks like a nice deal!

I have a good barrel vice since I spin bolt gun barrels on and off my bighorn and surgeon rifles for years.

I may take you up on the offer for help! i'll PM you shortly as I think we'll be doing a lot more of these parties based on demand so far
 
For a hunter or competition rifle a 16 inch 'varmint' upper free floated from Model One Sales.They come assembled but they are really good ER Shaw 1:9 barrels. (They also sell the barrels bare.)

I will second this! You'll have to spend a whole lot more money to get better accuracy or reliability. Not sure any AR could be more reliable as mine has been, zero issues, even shooting cheap Wolf steel case which it shoots about 1.5 moa.

Buy this upper and put the savings into a better trigger and you'll be very happy! I use a ~$160 CMC 3.5 lb drop in -- buy an LPK that doesn't include the hammer, trigger & disconnecter (saves some money, unless you want the unused parts as spares).

Get the sling stud option so you can mount a Harris bi-pod.
 
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