AR15 disconnector/trigger question

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ARperson

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So I'm putting the guts into my lower receiver. Got the trigger and disconnector in with little hassle. The spring on the hammer was a bit stronger than I expected, but I think I got that in okay too. When I run through a quick function test, everything seems to work okay except for the disconnector. Which I know is a big problem.

Here's my function test:

1. Push hammer assembly into receiver area to "cock" it.

2. Pull trigger to "fire" and release hammer (but avoid letting the hammer slam into the receiver body). After hammer has been fired, I keep the trigger pulled back and do not let it reset, so to speak.

3. Then I try and push the hammer back into position. Here's where it's supposed to "catch" on the disconnector to avoid the full auto issue. Except that with the trigger pulled all the way back, the hammer never engages the disconnector. I have to let the trigger creep forward the slightest bit. Then, while I'm still holding the hammer back, I can feel it catch on the disconnector.

4. Finally, I release all pressure on the trigger, letting it come forward fully, and I can feel and hear the hammer catch on its appropriate place on the trigger.

For comparison purposes, I did the same function test on my factory-made Bushy lower. I didn't have a problem engaging the hammer on the disconnector with the trigger pulled fully rearward.

My question is whether or not this is really a problem, since I know I'm not shooting full auto and will likely not be holding the trigger fully rearward when I'm shooting. On the other hand, I don't want to this be a case where in an actual firing situation it will totally miss engaging the disconnector unless I am holding the trigger in exactly the right position.

Thoughts, questions, suggestions?

Oh, in case you think it makes a difference, the lower is a DMPS and the parts are from J&T Distributing.
 
Nevermind.

I finished assembling the guts. Once everything was in, I tried it again. Seems the safety selector switch prevents the trigger from going back as far as it did when the selector wasn't installed. So there's no problem after all.

:cool:
 
yep, the lobes on the safety selector are a part of trigger function

selector.gif


http://www.ar15.com/content/docs/AR15-M16Parts/
 
I've never considered it, but does that mean if you remove the selector on an AR, you can make it fire full-auto (although without catching the disconnector, the hammer will ride the bolt forward)?
 
Remove the selector and replace it with M16 safety, or remove AR15 selector completely? If you remove AR15 selector, the gun would fire fine, just that you can't put it on safe. On the other hand when M16 selector is in 'full' position, the disconnector (M16) is depressed and disengaged.

Also, when you remove/hold down disconnector it will go full auto, but without sear, it will fire out of battery. Meaning bullet would fire before the bolt is fully closed. I will also probably jam after abot three rounds. That's why you need a auto-sear for full auto operation.

I heard that bad things happen when the gun fires out of battery.:uhoh:

Keep in mind that by removing disconnector or replacing any AR15 part with M16 will make it an illegal machinegun by ATF definition.
 
The AR15 should never fire out of battery due to the firing pin being held by the bolt carrier rather than the bolt itself. If the bolt isnt cam'ed to the lock position, the firing pin cant protrude out the front if its of the proper length. What will most likely happen is the hammer will catch on the firing pin (if not held down by the disconnector during cycling) and prevent the carrier from closing (due to the firing pin being exposed on AR15 carriers, and most AR15 hammers having the little shelf on the front face).

Kharn
 
Actually AR15 bolt and M16 bolts are differently. M16 bolt has exposed hammer, and will fire out of battery, whereas AR15 hammer is modified unexposed type.

I was thinking of M16 bolt as some older AR15s come with these bolts.
 
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