Arsenal SLR-95 question

kimberkid

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Feb 5, 2010
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As the arthritis in my shoulder keeps getting worse I’ve decided to remove the muzzle break so o can replace it with a more effective break or a QD mount for my suppressor, but I’ve had no success. I finally got the retaining pins out. I assume it has left hand threads, but have tried turning it both directions, have tried heating it up with map gas, soaking it in water incase it was put on with Rock Set and I can’t get it to budge.

Any help from the good folks here at THR?

TIA

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Spray it with keyboard cleaner turned upside down to get it stupid cold and maybe thermal shock will break whatever is binding it. Also, make sure it’s not ATF permanently affixed by silver solder or pinned and welded.
 
You are probably going to have to beat it off with a hammer and a block of wood. Those are pushed on and have 2 pins. You got the pins out which can be the very difficult part. Spray it down with some good penetrating spray like crc and let it soak a while before you start beating on it.

Edit: Meant to add in that these do not have threads. I have also heard tale of them having solder like the above poster said. If beating it off don't work it may be soldered, and the only thing you can do at that point is have it cut off and have a new brake pinned and welded on to make it 16 inches again.
 
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I have one also but have never attempted to remove the muzzle brake.

Also can't confirm if it's threaded on or pressed on. If it's pressed on, you could drill the front and tap it. Then use a bolt to pop it off. Probably help if you heat the end attached to the barrel.

If it's threaded on and won't budge, you'll probably have to cut it off. Just be careful and don't cut into the barrel.
 
I think to improve on that brake you would need to go to a JP recoil eliminator. Not sure if its worth the trouble.
 
The Bulgarian SLR 95 and 96 muzzle breaks are pressed on and pinned with two pins.
Some of these will come off without too much drama, some are pressed on so tightly they have to be cut off.

As above soak with Kroil or other penetrating fluid for a day or so, then try to drive it off with a large hammer and a block of the hardest wood you can find.
You can also try some heat, but not red hot.

Under the brake is a non-threaded barrel that can be threaded with a standard 24mm AK left hand threading die.
Note that there is no muzzle attachment locking pin, but if you have the right tooling the front sight support can be drilled for a lock pin and spring.

The SLR muzzle break is actually one of the most effective muzzle breaks ever made for an AK.
 
I think to improve on that brake you would need to go to a JP recoil eliminator. Not sure if its worth the trouble.
I’ve got a JP recoil eliminator on a 308 and while it is very effective, you really don’t want to shoot it without anyone next to you … in fact the only “safe space” is directly behind you!
I would PM MachIVshooter. If anyone knows, its him, he threads EVERYTHING. :D
Thanks for the suggestion, he’s back-boring a Colt 22 bull barrel for me :)

The Bulgarian SLR 95 and 96 muzzle breaks are pressed on and pinned with two pins.
Some of these will come off without too much drama, some are pressed on so tightly they have to be cut off.

As above soak with Kroil or other penetrating fluid for a day or so, then try to drive it off with a large hammer and a block of the hardest wood you can find.
You can also try some heat, but not red hot.

Under the brake is a non-threaded barrel that can be threaded with a standard 24mm AK left hand threading die.
Note that there is no muzzle attachment locking pin, but if you have the right tooling the front sight support can be drilled for a lock pin and spring.

The SLR muzzle break is actually one of the most effective muzzle breaks ever made for an AK.
I’m thinking there’s too much effort required to remove the break, especially if it’s not already threaded, I’ve got other AK’s I could get a QD mount for a 308 suppressor I already own.
 
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