BAR MKll accuracy help

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cowboy77845

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I was shooting my used BAR 270 Weatherby for groups before deciding whether to cerakote it. I cleaned the bbl very well. It appears to require at least 6 fouling shots before group size is reduced. Prior groups exceeded 3" I used both 130 gr and 140 gr rounds. After the fouling shots, the first round hit point of aim and the 2 following shots went somewhere else. My first thought is the scope has a problem. It is a Burris Full Field ll, 4.5x12 about 15 yrs old. The seller said it sat for 6 yrs unused. I intend to break it down and clean all parts except bbl, put on a newer scope and retry. The crown looks ok. It appears to have been shot very little. What do you all think?
 
I'm confused? Did you have it cerakoted and now it's having accuracy issues? Or are you thinking of having it cerakoted and now are having accuracy issues? Or did you buy it used, and discovering it is not shooting like you want it to?

I don't really buy into the fouling shot ideology too much, but I definitely don't think you should need 6 shots to remove oil or crud from the barrel.
 
I've owned 3 that I really wanted to like. All .30-06. Beautiful guns. But I could never get any of them to shoot any where near moa. The Safari was the most accurate of the 3 and was able to shoot about 2.5" groups with my best handload. Plenty good for deer at my distances. But "Only accurate rifles are interesting" and 2.5" at 100 isn't my idea of accurate. Sold two with plans to send one off to a Smith one day.
 
I'm confused? Did you have it cerakoted and now it's having accuracy issues? Or are you thinking of having it cerakoted and now are having accuracy issues? Or did you buy it used, and discovering it is not shooting like you want it to?

I don't really buy into the fouling shot ideology too much, but I definitely don't think you should need 6 shots to remove oil or crud from the barrel.
I have a 308 CZ FS 550 that takes 2 fouling shots every deer season and then shoots under moa until cleaned again

Was planning on cerakoting if it shot well. I did get a 1i/4 inch group with one iteration of 140 grainers. then the groups opened up again. The fellow I bought it from said his dad made some outstanding shots with it. If it shot for him like it shoots for me the dad should have been buying lottery tickets. I really want this gun to shoot because my shots are all over 170 yds.
 
I have a 308 CZ FS 550 that takes 2 fouling shots every deer season and then shoots under moa until cleaned again

Was planning on cerakoting if it shot well. I did get a 1i/4 inch group with one iteration of 140 grainers. then the groups opened up again. The fellow I bought it from said his dad made some outstanding shots with it. If it shot for him like it shoots for me the dad should have been buying lottery tickets. I really want this gun to shoot because my shots are all over 170 yds.
hers another forum quote:
My Belgian made 270 WCF will do one and a half inches for three shots with Federal 150gr Noslers. I think all of the semi autos are touchy about their ammo. Mine will not shoot that well with everything. The Remington 150gr Roundnose Corelokt more often goes into three inches. All groups at 100 yds from a sandbag rest.
it appears you need to find the right ammo for it
 
? were the 130 grain bullets you used Remington 130 grain Core-Lokt bullets?
from another forum
This group was shot this afternoon by our son. The gun is a Browning BAR MkII in .270 Winchester.

Remington cases, Federal GM210M primers, 57.5 grains of Reloader 22, Remington 130 grain Core-Lokt bullets.

Distance was 100 yards off the bench. Our son had the scope on 4X. The squares are one inch.

This is the accuracy a commercial BAR is capable of. attachment.jpg
 
I shot 130 gr spitzer Weatherby (Norma) ammo. Something less hot might do better in a non Weatherby mfg bbl. I understand the Weatherby bbls have free bore. Have no clue about others.
 
I shot 130 gr spitzer Weatherby (Norma) ammo. Something less hot might do better in a non Weatherby mfg bbl. I understand the Weatherby bbls have free bore. Have no clue about others.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...erby-magnum-130-grain-norma-spitzer-box-of-20
Grain Weight 130 Grains
Muzzle Velocity 3280 Feet Per Second
Muzzle Energy 3106 Foot Pounds
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...-grain-core-lokt-pointed-soft-point-box-of-20
thats your problem to hot of a round load
Remington are 200 fps slower i see could make a BIG difference in a autoloaded like yours
Muzzle Velocity 3060 Feet Per Second
Muzzle Energy 2702 Foot Pounds
 
I shot 130 gr spitzer Weatherby (Norma) ammo. Something less hot might do better in a non Weatherby mfg bbl. I understand the Weatherby bbls have free bore. Have no clue about others.
try 130gr barnes bullets tsx
Muzzle Velocity 3060 Feet Per Second SS36241.jpg
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/browning-bar-owners-ammo-input-needed.614004/
That BAR was replaced with a MKII Safari in .270 with BOSS system. This is a TACdriver! I have only used Federal 130gr. Barnes TSX. Never a malfunction in hundreds of rounds.
https://www.ableammo.com/catalog/fe...e-shock-bullet-130-3060-fps-rdbx-p-74122.html
 
I think I will try 140 gr Nosler BST Silver tips before I buy anymore 130 grain ammo and mount a Zeiss scope I have. It seems to me that the rounds should all be in a general vicinity as opposed to "it being anybody's guess". Some comments I read somewhere else said the MKll Safari was accurate. Part of my difficulty in getting information is that not a lot of people have a BAR in 270 Weatherby. Going to talk to my gunsmith tomorrow and see if he has any recommendations.
 
I think I will try 140 gr Nosler BST Silver tips before I buy anymore 130 grain ammo and mount a Zeiss scope I have. It seems to me that the rounds should all be in a general vicinity as opposed to "it being anybody's guess". Some comments I read somewhere else said the MKll Safari was accurate. Part of my difficulty in getting information is that not a lot of people have a BAR in 270 Weatherby. Going to talk to my gunsmith tomorrow and see if he has any recommendations.
maybe you need to go heavy then that found this
My most accurate factory loads are: Wby. 139 & 154 Interlocks, & 160 Partition. Federal's 150 Nosler Solid Base is amazingly accurate. Federal's 160 TBBC isn't bad either.
 
So many different highlights and colors and links, Im confused. Have you only tried 130 gr and 140 gr from that rifle? From one manufacturer? Try as many brands and weights as you can. With other shooters firing your rifle as well. Really narrows down whats happening with your rifle.
 
If it doesn’t like to be cleaned, stop cleaning it. At least the barrel, you can still clean and oil parts to maintain function while leaving the barrel fouled.

I have a number of guns that have never had anything down the bore except bullets and some that only get cleaned once accuracy degrades.
 
Several things to consider:

First, I think you have excessive expectations for the platform. An occasional 3-shot group doesn't make a gun a "MOA" capable gun. Most of the tests I've seen, such as the NRA review when the II came out suggest 2-4 MOA capabilities.

In my experience, if a rifle won't shoot well with Norma ammo, there's a gun problem.

Due to gas system under the forearm, and it's mounting (forearm) onto the barrel, the rifles are VERY sensitive to firing technique from the bench. How you place and hold the gun on the sand bags makes a difference. Using one of those mechanical rests? A whole other can of worms added to the mix!!! The bounce and jump with those begins when the firing pin moves, and barrel torque from bullet acceleration combined with barrel whip does strange things with those contraptions.

Add to the mix parallax (most centerfire scopes are corrected to 150yds), so even eye position behind the scope is critical.
Using factory ammo, I believe you're about to get an expensive education.

My suggestion is to pick a proper load for the intended purpose, get a basic zero. From a COLD barrel, fire a one-shot group, FROM A HUNTING POSITION, i.e. sitting, kneeling or prone. If it hits in the vicinity of what you expect, go hunting! It's a HUNTING rifle, not a TARGET rifle.
 
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