Beginner reloader

[CKweigand]

I hate to say this, but you are probably not going to get many suggestions for your inquiry...not because anyone is not wanting to help you, but rather “they” (THR members collectively) are trying to keep you safe...

First and foremost, you are not asking the “right” questions to start with. If you have a handbook with proper load data. You should be able to have an informed idea of how much TG is needed.

Also you can ask for suggestions on powder charges but anyone can just throw a wild number out there for you to take as gospel. It’s up to you and ONLY YOU to verify, corroborate , and double/triple check the credibility of such information. To neglect this is to possibly lose life or limb.

I’m not trying to offend you or belittle you by any means, just want you to understand the risks of what you are asking for. There is to much that you need to worry about before ever thinking about throwing some powder in the case. Have you checked your trim length? Have you established a OAL yet? Are you roll crimping or tapering? And the questions go on and on....if you don’t fully understand what I just asked in the last few sentences. Then I suggest you re read the handbooks or find some more to read.

Respectfully,
CK

I think everyone here wants to see you succeed.. don’t think otherwise!

 

[Dudedog]

How much Titegoup to use

Lyman 50 lists data for cast 170s and Titegroup which should give you an idea for 165s
but with cast bullets bullet dia is very important, the bullets could be sized to a different diameter than the bullets used for the listed load and that will make
a difference.


I feel it would be a really good idea when you are learning to stick to listed loads, use the listed bullet, powder, primer.
Once you have experience under you belt then you will be able to make good decisions about substitutions.


I mentioned it before but I will again really recommend setting the Titegroup aside until you have a little more experience and get a powder that is bulkier (the same weight takes up more volume)
Nothing wrong with Titegroup, but I feel other powders would be a better choice for you when you are learning to reload..

So you have some 165 gr lead bullets given to you.
Cool, but I would save them for later as well.
To make an informed loading decision you need to know the dia, hardness etc.
Are the bullets lubed, coated, or maybe even raw unlubed? All will work but need to be handled differently.
I know buying a different powder and bullets costs money, but mistakes can be very costly.
I don't mean to preach doom and gloom but a new gun is expensive, a trip to ER even more so and somethings can't be fixed/replaced at any cost.

To draw an analogy think about learning to drive.
Do you use a known good car to learn (a listed load) or do you build the car yourself and hope you get it right.
Sure you can build the car (load) that's part of the fun but when your learning to drive it's maybe not a good idea to discover for example your knowledge and assembly of
say the braking system was not as good as it should have been.

We all want you to succeed and be a safe and happy reloader posting things to help beginners years from now, we were all beginners at one time.

Learn, have fun and be safe.

 

[wrench459]

I feel it would be a really good idea when you are learning to stick to listed loads, use the listed bullet, powder, primer.
Once you have experience under you belt then you will be able to make good decisions about substitutions.
Learn, have fun and be safe.

This is jam up^

 

[Paulie69]

I hate to say this, but you are probably not going to get many suggestions for your inquiry...not because anyone is not wanting to help you, but rather “they” (THR members collectively) are trying to keep you safe...

First and foremost, you are not asking the “right” questions to start with. If you have a handbook with proper load data. You should be able to have an informed idea of how much TG is needed.

Also you can ask for suggestions on powder charges but anyone can just throw a wild number out there for you to take as gospel. It’s up to you and ONLY YOU to verify, corroborate , and double/triple check the credibility of such information. To neglect this is to possibly lose life or limb.

I’m not trying to offend you or belittle you by any means, just want you to understand the risks of what you are asking for. There is to much that you need to worry about before ever thinking about throwing some powder in the case. Have you checked your trim length? Have you established a OAL yet? Are you roll crimping or tapering? And the questions go on and on....if you don’t fully understand what I just asked in the last few sentences. Then I suggest you re read the handbooks or find some more to read.

Respectfully,
CK

I think everyone here wants to see you succeed.. don’t think otherwise!

First I dnt take anything personal, I dnt guess if I dnt no and I've been researching of what I have and can't find it so I just asked a question. I am very safe and cautious aswell. But thank u for your input

 

[rocirish]

My advice is to re-read Dudedogs post 77 until it makes sense to you. This hobby is not one where you start out by using any equipment you have on hand or any components given to you.
Please take your time learning about this hobby and be safe.

 

[Paulie69]

Im not using just any equipment Im safe and cautious just thpught I'd ask. Thank you fpr the input

 

[hdwhit]

Paulie69 wrote:
I have a handbook and I have read it a couple of times but it doesn't tell me much.

Can I ask which handbook it is that you have?

All of the reloading manuals (Hornady, Sierra, Lyman, Lee, etc.) will have a "How to Reload" section around 40 pages in length. I don't see how this could be studied with the care it deserves without someone taking a whole lot out of it.

Or by "handbook" do you mean one of the velo-bound volumes that is just a compilation of load data from various sources? Such a "handbook" is not the type of reloading manual we are talking about and if that's what you were referring to, then, yes, you could read it and come away having learned little.

 

[Dudedog]

Paulie69,
did you get a new scale?
If so what did you get? (just curious)

 

[WestKentucky]

He got a lee beam scale. And some bullets. And some other bullets. And some brass.

 

[Dudedog]

WestKentucky
Opps forgot you said you would send him the scale very nice thing to do.
Bullets and brass were were cool as well.
If he got the bullets from you then that pretty much eliminates the concern about the bullets being ok. (not oversize, unlubed etc)

 

[Blue68f100]

TG is one powder I do not recommend for a newbe. I've been loading for over 45 yrs and don't use it, because I thing there are better powders for my application. I prefer powders that fill the case that are easy to see. It is extremely hard to detect a double or triple charge, which is bad news. Starting with lead is not the way to go either. There are too many variables that needs to be right for them not to lead a barrel. Set them aside for when you have gained the experience.

Be Safe .... Think about what your doing. In a nut shell your making a controlled explosion. Get something wrong, bad things happen.

 

[sbwaters]

some 165 gr. cast bullets were given to me. Ive tried to look up on how much tite group I should use cause that is all I have at the moment.

165 gr. cast lead seems non-standard.

I see 160 gr. Hodgdon Titegroup 3.2 generating 775 fps suggested start load with a 1.550" OAL with a max load of 3.6 gr. generating 887 fps.

I am NOT suggesting using that recipe as no one should take what is said on a forum as a guide. What I am suggesting is that TiteGroup is a hot powder and should be treated with great respect. You might want to invest in a pound of slower powder for recipes contained in an authentic manual.

 

[The Mailman]

As a beginner I bought BE-86 for my first powder. It fills the the cases in my 9mm nicely, and I can visually tell the difference between 5.2gr and 5.8gr.

I was thinking about W231, but the load is much smaller and I did not want to make any errors.

Especially as a beginner, every small decision should be carefully planned out. Once you have made your choices you need to go back and look over all of it again, maybe 2 or 3 times. There is NO room for error in this hobby

 

[PPGMD]

It seems the initial issue is more he didn't have the scale in grain mode vs grams mode. There is a quick easy way to check that, throw a bullet on the scale. Since you already know the weight in grains it would reach within a grain or two (depending on quality).

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I'm glad to hear one of our members sent the OP a scale, brass and bullets. Just goes to show this forum he the best people on the NET.

As for .38 Special powders, I suggest Winchester 231, Hodgdon HP-38, Alliant Bullseye, Accurate AA#2, Ramshot Zip or Alliant Unique. There are many others but those are the most common and have a lot of data available. I use most W231/HP-38 and it works well for me. It meters very well too.

Good luck and a late welcome to the forum.

 

[Paulie69]

I'm glad to hear one of our members sent the OP a scale, brass and bullets. Just goes to show this forum he the best people on the NET.
Thank u for your input. I will be safe and respect the art of reloading
As for .38 Special powders, I suggest Winchester 231, Hodgdon HP-38, Alliant Bullseye, Accurate AA#2, Ramshot Zip or Alliant Unique. There are many others but those are the most common and have a lot of data available. I use most W231/HP-38 and it works well for me. It meters very well too.

Good luck and a late welcome to the forum.

 

[Paulie69]

Thank u for your input. I will be safe and respect the art of reloading