I agree.That tells me somebody didn't flare the cases enough.
I agree.That tells me somebody didn't flare the cases enough.
I bought a box of 250 of the Berry's 124 gr. HHP when they 1st came out. I didn't have any problems with the plating getting damaged. In fact, I've never had any of their plated bullets, other than the time I over zealously crimped the juices out of them.f you look at the link I posted and read a couple of the comments the guys were reporting tearing the plating when seating the bullets. That tells me somebody didn't flare the cases enough. Thats why I was asking here. I thought someone would have loaded some of these. I am more interested in the RMR bullets now.
I am more interested in the RMR bullets now.
f you look at the link I posted and read a couple of the comments the guys were reporting tearing the plating when seating the bullets. That tells me somebody didn't flare the cases enough. Thats why I was asking here. I thought someone would have loaded some of these. I am more interested in the RMR bullets now.
► Truth is, the plating thickness varies by huge amounts across the various plated bullet makers. Even Berry Mfg has 3 different plating thicknesses within their product line. (This is why some Berry product is marked "TP".) It's the crimps on thinner plating (no matter who made it) that need to be very carefully controlled.I think the best route with Berry’s bullets is to taper crimp them since they warn against roll crimping too much.
► You got it....And you really need to just taper crimp a semi auto round anyway. I just lightly crimped the revolver rounds I loaded and never had them move in the case. But I didn’t load full blown magnum loads either.
+1.► Truth is, the plating thickness varies by huge amounts across the various plated bullet makers. Even Berry Mfg has 3 different plating thicknesses within their product line. (This is why some Berry product is marked "TP".)