Best AK Mount? Take this Poll IF YOU KNOW THESE PRODUCTS

Which AK Optic Mount???

  • Texas Weapon Systems "Dog Leg"

    Votes: 6 16.2%
  • Ultimak Gas Tube Rail

    Votes: 21 56.8%
  • Other high quality option

    Votes: 10 27.0%

  • Total voters
    37
  • Poll closed .
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I've already got marks on my shooting glasses from the takedown latch on the AK. The TX dogleg would probably break my cheekbone.

I've went Ruskie for optics. Kinda crude but they work, like the AK itself. BSW
 
I've already got marks on my shooting glasses from the takedown latch on the AK. The TX dogleg would probably break my cheekbone.

I've went Ruskie for optics. Kinda crude but they work, like the AK itself. BSW
The latch IS a little too far back, but it is manageable.
 
No, becuase with the Texas dogleg, you mount stuff to the rear, FAR REAR, of the rail, so your face is not right up against the cover plate, and near the rear tang. Even if you just use a rear BUIS, this will keep your face away from the cover. This is one thing, that helps make it superior to many other site systems for aks; you can give yourself a normal type cheekweld, especially if you using a padded type stock or collapsible, with a raised cheekpiece.
 
The mount I use on my Bulgarian SA-93. I had to have the receiver drilled and tapped though, works great. Never had a problem with it.

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Brian says "I've already got marks on my shooting glasses from the takedown latch on the AK. The TX dogleg would probably break my cheekbone".

And that is the reason I like Nato length stocks and not the puny Warsaw length that most AK's come with.
 
there is no contest, the Texas weapon systems is better; it is super low profile, so it is easier to get a sight picture/cheek weld than the ultimak,
I asked in another thread about this and so far have not got an aswer anywhere to substantiate this. My Ultimak rails are the same height or a tad lower than the top cover. How is the Texas Weapons System rail lower, if it sits above the top cover, unless you have to replace the existing top cover with a different one?

With the Ultimak, I get the "exact" same cheek weld as I do with my iron sights, and I get it quicker, and more naturally than with any rear mounted optic I've used. I also dont have a rear mounted optic back in my face, blocking my field of view.


I've already got marks on my shooting glasses from the takedown latch on the AK. The TX dogleg would probably break my cheekbone.
This would be my worry as well, as I'm a nose to (actually slightly alongside) the top cover shooter, which is actually the proper position for your head when shooting with iron sights. Same as with most other rifles of this type, including the M16 family of rifles.

No, becuase with the Texas dogleg, you mount stuff to the rear, FAR REAR, of the rail, so your face is not right up against the cover plate, and near the rear tang. Even if you just use a rear BUIS, this will keep your face away from the cover. This is one thing, that helps make it superior to many other site systems for aks; you can give yourself a normal type cheekweld, especially if you using a padded type stock or collapsible, with a raised cheekpiece.
You dont mount the optic to the rear if your used to and want a cheek weld thats close to your iron sight cheek weld, you want your head low and forward. At least thats the case for me. Even on my HK's and AR's, my scopes have always been mounted as low as possible and the eye piece of the traditionally mounted scope, at, or as close to, the same place the rear sight is or would be. It makes for a smooth, natural transition from iron sights to scope, as there is little if any change in how you shoulder and shoot the rifle.

Things that bring the scope higher, and more towards the rear, do just the opposite. They also make the gun less user friendly when used as a "working" gun, as opposed to a "bench" gun.


And that is the reason I like Nato length stocks and not the puny Warsaw length that most AK's come with.
The standard AK stocks have the exact LOP (13") as most combat stocked rifles, including the M16/M16A1's (the A2's are 5/8" longer), M1's, M14's, HK, etc. The stocks are not "short". Adding length to the AK's stock only hinders and interferes with its use for anything but a bench type rifle.


I've used both rear and front mounted type mounts, on AK's, as well as other type rifles. From the standpoint of an all around, working type gun, there is nothing faster, and more natural to use, than the forward mounted optic, and especially a quality red dot that is cowitnessed to the iron sights.

The Ultimaks are simple and rock solid. They have no moving parts to break or come undone. They are also the lowest mounted rail you will find on an AK (unless the TWS type mount does lower the top cover somehow, which I havent seen so far). The Ultimaks are aluminum, and dont retain heat, and actually shed it quickly. They are also lighter than the handguard they replace, so they really dont add weight to the gun by themselves. Even with a reasonable dot sight on them, they do not add much to the weight of the gun, and balance and handling are not at all affected. The sight is up front, out of the way of both handling and your field of view. It allows for fast, natural shooting, same as the iron sighted only rifle, and you can snap shoot both static and moving targets easily at most any range.
 
Yup. I second, third and fourth?+ this choice. BP-02, designed for the Kalashnikov, and locked solid to the receiver's rail.

Or any of the Russian optics with the integral mount.

I have a PK-AS on my sweeet SAR-1. Man that's a set-up if your left-eye dominant, but right handed...I am. Left eye to the optic and right eye co-witness!
 
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Got the dog leg today; very nicely made & mounted easily. BUT......The rear tang is drilled off-center to the bore, making an obvious angle shift to the barrel. I am really frustrated as I have a Nikon Prostaff & Weaver top mounts ordered & in route.

I have an aimpoint clone mounted in the most forward notch, and I am sure that far forward I can adjust out the cant. No way I can do that with a scope, though, and that was the whole point of this hog-getting build up. You can actually see the scope angled away from the barrel when mounted.

I tried it with an identically sized Simmons 8-point (to the ordered Nikon) on hand, and it is useless. Short of replacing the stock & redrilling the tang, I see no way to fix this. Thoughts?

Additional problem: They only way to mount this scope in standard high rings is to place both rings behind the turrets of the scope. I have seen this on occasion, but I have no clue how well it will hold zero; assuming, of course, I can get the tang sorted out. Thoughts?
 
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i got the $25 UTG 978 quick detachable double rail side mount, holds zero pretty good my tightest 4 shot group today was 4.5" @90 yards on a windy day. and i have took it off more than a few times, just got to make sure you press it down and lock it the same way everytime and tighten the screw on the bottom pretty tight but not to tight you cant get it off without tools, i can still get it on and off in less than 10 sec. here is a pic of it with my centerpoint scope.

and with some of the worst ammo to some people golden tiger i like it tho
 

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email him or call him; he will send you out another rail immediately.
I would not worry about the rings being on one side or the other, of the scope turrets, especially with a semi auto. if it is a good scope, and Nikon is, then you don't have to worry about internal parts shaking loose...
 
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The best AK mount is the BP02, while the best red dot solution is the Kobra or a BP02 mounted Aimpoint, if the mount has been modified to lower the rail.
 
email him or call him; he will send you out another rail immediately.

No problem with the rail at all. It is exactly as promised. The problem is the missaligned tang on my Armory USA (Romanian) AK. I am actually more impressed with the TWS work after getting the piece. If you have an AK that is actually straight, I do not think this mount can be beat.
 
I liked the side mount UTG ones on clasicarms.us. I looked at them at the gun shot and they seem to be well made, but they were more expensive at the show. I don't know if it's true or not, but one guy at the gun show liked the screw on version like this UTG over the lever. He said if you remove it often, the level will wear out. I don't have any experience with any, but this UTG has three allen screws on the bottom to hold it in place.
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I'm also looking for a good mount for my AK74 - but am looking to see if there are any good dual rail solutions currently - the only place I have been able to find them is the UTG listed above that is only listed on airgun/airsoft sites. Does the UTG sightmount actually hold up to the recoil from the real thing? I am considering putting a red dot + flashlight on my AK74 w/ side rail.
 
BP-02 with dual rails installed is what you are looking for. Price is in the $50-60 range, its rock solid, locks in with a tensioning lever, like any Russian scope, and gives you two rails on which to mount crud. Kalinka optics has these in stock.
 
Thanks for the info, i'm ordering that BP02 now. Now if I could just find a reasonable plinking holographic red dot that didn't cost 250$+, i'd be all set :D
 
OK, the BP02 arrived. It seems to mount/clamp down relatively solidly to the side rail/mount, but is not centering over the bore. The rail is skewed to the right almost 15 degrees; looking down the weaver side towards the front sight, the sight is hidden by the left teeth of the weaver sight. This is on a brand new lancaster AK-74RR. Anyone got any ideas?

I ordered this one:
http://www.kalinkaoptics.com/detail.aspx?ID=839
 
:( after 20-30 minutes of mucking with it, i've got it pretty close...but now I notice that it is not only 'crooked' relative to the front sight, but also not centered over the bore line - it goes too far over the centerline and ends up 2-3mm too far to the right side of the rifle when mounted. After hearing good things about the BP02 here, I am just frustrated and dissapointed; this isn't a useable mount for my AK74 built on an NDS2 receiver. I guess now I can try one of the other 2 listed here and see if they are any better; the finish on this BP02 scratched pretty deeply where the lever passes over the mount itself, so I doubt I can send it back now :(
 
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This is another way in which the Texasweaponsystems excells; no matter how freaked up the ak monkeys made your ak in line with it's sights, as long as your receiver is straight, the Texas dogleg is going to sit right over, and straight down the line, over your receiver/ rear site. the side mount sights, can be diff from rifle to rifle , depending on how they are made, and then, they can be made a bit askew themselves.
 
This is another way in which the Texasweaponsystems excells; no matter how freaked up the ak monkeys made your ak in line with it's sights, as long as your receiver is straight, the Texas dogleg is going to sit right over, and straight down the line, over your receiver/ rear site. the side mount sights, can be diff from rifle to rifle

I wish this was the case. The rear sight block and/or rear tang on my Armory USA is canted enough to make the dogleg unusable for me. It mounts beutifully & is nicely made, and dutifully faces a good 5-7 degrees off the bore centerline. I hate to say it, but most AK's are useless stone-age crap, with built quality similar to a 1970's Chrysler product.

I am straying to the dark side, and see an AR in my immediate future-----
 
I hate to say it, but most AK's are useless stone-age crap, with built quality similar to a 1970's Chrysler product.
The problem here is, your comparing two US made items, the Armory USA gun and the Chrysler. The "real" AK's, even the lowly WASR's, are not in the same category.

The AK's originally assembled and barreled in the factory that make them for the militaries of the country of their origin, usually dont have the problems yours had. I've yet to have one of the above "factory" have an issue with accuracy or function. I cant say the same about my US built Arsenal/Global Trades gun that also cost about half again more.


Regardless, if you go with the Ultimak rail, it has to be true with the barrel, as its mounted directly to it. Any scope or dot sight mounted to it will be also.
 
QUOTE: after 20-30 minutes of mucking with it, i've got it pretty close...but now I notice that it is not only 'crooked' relative to the front sight, but also not centered over the bore line - it goes too far over the centerline and ends up 2-3mm too far to the right side of the rifle when mounted. After hearing good things about the BP02 here, I am just frustrated and dissapointed; this isn't a useable mount for my AK74 built on an NDS2 receiver. I guess now I can try one of the other 2 listed here and see if they are any better; the finish on this BP02 scratched pretty deeply where the lever passes over the mount itself, so I doubt I can send it back now

True it up with flat washers, at least as true as you can get it. Ace Hardware has longer metric screws if you need them. It doesn't have to be perfectly aligned over the bore either. Just make sure scope crosshairs are straight up and down. It will be close enough for "government" work as they say.:scrutiny:
 
Thanks for the input M1key. This is my first mounted optic (iron sights 4 lyfe!) that i've used other than a scope on my .22 rifle that was already mounted when it was gifted to me, and i've never had to do any shimming. Where would I add flat washers to make the mount adjust left/right? Why would I need longer screws? My BP02 uses a clamp...

Would the washers go between the side-mount on the AK's receiver and the clamp on mount? Like, to move the POI right, i'd add a washer on the 'top flat' part of the side rail, towards the FRONT of the gun....and to make it shift RIGHT, i'd put a washer between the clamp on rail and the side rail towards the REAR of the receiver - I'm having a hard time visualizing and feel pretty foolish...
Or would the washers go somewhere under my actual optic's mount clamp (I don't see how that would work, since a washer on the right or left side of the optic's clamp would block the clamp from tightened on the weaver rail)? I got my red dot installed tonight, and not only do I have to tweak the sight to aim left, but it's pointed DOWN it's MAXIMUM amount and barely zeroing relative to the iron sights :( And here I was thinking that since I bought a brand new NDS-2 AK built by lancaster that i'd not have these kinds of problems...
 
On the existing side screws, between the 2 halves (upper piece and lower piece). This should move the rail more to the LEFT (slightly)...the more washers, the more movement to the left.--hence the need for longer screws.

You probably will have to give up on the idea of getting it perfect--just closer. Even the POSP scopes aren't perfect.

Good luck.
 
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