Best Gun Oil/Lube after Cleaning? Cleaning Tips?

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4Freedom

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Hi, I just finished using my S&W M&P 45 at the range today. I don't think I did a great job cleaning it and still need to learn more about cleaning guns. I am relatively new with firearms and have just started firing my own guns. I am wondering if anyone can give me suggestion of best gun oil/lube to use after cleaning the S&W M&P 45 and Sig P229 Elite. I also have a S&W 642 snubby that will need cleaning soon too.

IF anyone has any good videos on cleaning pistol I like to see. I bought the rod but was not sure exactly the process of cleaning it out. I just stuck a pad dipped full of the cleaning solution I bought at sportsman warehosue and pushed it on the needle of the rode and put it through the barrel and cleaned the rest of what I could. A lot of gunk came off and it looks clean, but I will have someone inspect it before I shoot it again.

Anyway, now that I cleaned it I suppose the gun lube of the gun is now gone. If anyone can give me any advice on how to lube it and what lube to use, I appreciate it. Thanks.
 
Cleaning a barrel and the lube? I have used Break Free CLP as a basic cleaner and as the the only oil for 30 years. But also for the barrel it depends on basic condition and how it was both broke in. I allways have jb's bore polish that does get used on a new barrel just to help slick along with kroil oil as a copper lifter. If you load up a bore you can use the kroil to soak and loosen any material in the barrel and dies work as a lube also. I do regardless of gun try to use a krieger barrel break'n as a guide. Most well broke in barrels now get a bore snake with Break Free on the snake and clean good ever few shooting sessions. Some kind of spray gun cleaner that won't hurt plastic is used to clean the action in semi autos pistols and hard to get to spots and a few drops of kroil where needed to protect. Stay away from ammonia based cleaners.
 
I use Shooter's Choice to clean and Clenzoil to lube/protect. I utterly despise the synthetic cleaning patches that come with cheap cleaning kits. Years ago, I bought several large bags of cloth GI cleaning patches. Those work better than anything else I've ever used.

Basic cleaning procedure:

1. Using the cleaning rod and loop, run a patch soaked with bore cleaner through the barrel until it's thoroughly wet with cleaner. This is easier if you have a patch that's large enough to have full contact with the bore. Depending upon how fouled the barrel is, let it sit for a few minutes up to an hour or two.

2. Using the proper size bore brush, run the rod through the bore about ten times.

3. Returning to the patch and loop, run another patch with solvent through the bore.

4. Use the loop and dry patches until the patches come out clean.

5. Use the loop and a patch wet with lube to thoroughly wet the barrel. Follow with a dry patch to remove the excess. A good lube will leave a protective film in the bore.

To clean other parts, apply solvent liberally to remove fouling. Use a toothbrush type tool where needed to remove built-up fouling. Wipe off solvent, using clean patches or rags until they come away clean. Wet a patch or rag with solvent and apply to all surfaces. Wipe away with a clean rag to remove excess.
 
I thank you for the instructions. You know I think I screwed up on my first cleaning. I do use the shooter's choice with the cotton style patches that come in baggies, specific to the size.

However, well I just wanted to try it. Ishot 50 rounds through my S&W M&P 45 and then went home and stripped the barrel and frame into its parts. I then proceeded to clean the barrel and wiped the others parts of the gun with the patches soaked in the cleaning solvent. Well, I didn't really know what I was doing, so I just let them sit there over night. The next day I figured it was dried and put the gun back together and left it unloaded until the next day.

Well, seeing that I probably did this wrong, you don't think I did any damage to my gun? I definately willl go and observer some cleaning videos or have someone instruct me before I do it again. I don't want to let the cleaning solution screw up the gun or cause rust, oxidation, etc.

Also, I need to figure the proper way to do the lubrication. I was told the toothbrush style brushes are not good to use because they scratch? You think the toothbrush style brush is the best way to clean the spring and other awkward shaped parts that would not be pratical with bore brush?

If you can let me know if you think I didn't screw anything up I be happy.. I think I will go through youtube and watch some videos.
 
Tooth brush style brushes?? nylon, use them all the time and even a brass/bronse bore brush gets used some but there is a debate over them.I do use the plastic/nylon bore brushes to, packed with to much cotton to get good pressure in the barrel. I worry more about the new barrel than a seasond barrel. Get a bore light and when you think your done wipe it dry and take a look. If the area next to the groves are clean of copper and or lead then you did good. Some barrels are better than others so you might have done a great job. Lots of products on the market and all have a piece of the market so they must work to some point right.
 
Hoppe's to clean (semi auto cleaner, not #9 which I love the smell) and either EEZOX or Weaponshield to protect. Militec1 grease on contact points.
 
Another question about cleaning.

On polymer pistols the manufacturers use some sort of light grease on the rails, what is the best grease for this?
 
Unless you live in extremely cold conditions, whatever is the cheapest grease at your gun store will work. This will usually be Tetra's Grease.

Use very little as grease will grab more lint/junk than oils. Just wipe some on, work the action a few times and wipe most of it off with a cotton cloth.
 
If you use a grease, first use CLP and then just a small amount of grease on the rails. The advantage of grease is that it will pretty much stay where you put it. CLP tends to migrate and/or evaporate. I have actually started using Mobil One synthetic motor oil on the rails and barrel lugs. It is a bit thinner than grease but does not migrate.

I use Eezox on the outside for protection against moisture.
 
Breakfree CLP is excellent; I've used it for years and have never been disappointed. Between Breakfree and Hoppe's No. 9, well ... you just don't need anything else unless something is really amiss.
 
Personally I use Hoppe's No. 9 for cleaning and Break Free CLP for lubing. Athough occasionally, I will use the break free CLP for both tasks and it works fine. The Hoppe's seems to be a bit more effective at breaking down carbon deposits, while the CLP is better at protecting from rust and other contaminents over time.
 
i use hoppes no.9 bench rest solvent on everything, all of the time. i have several bottles of other stuff laying around, and occasionally, i dig one out and use it after the hopes, just to be sure i am not missing something. but it is very seldom. as for lube, i have so much stuff around here, i should probably be listed as a distributor! but my favorite is mobil 1, and gunslick w/ mobil 1 and stp. i typically use this conglomeration on the slide rails. but i do not use anything that heavy for cold weather shooting. if hunting in the fall/winter, i use superlube synthetic spray lube. i worry more about function than wear when hunting. i also use gun scrubber on my plastic pistols. you gotta get'em clean!
 
I don't want to let the cleaning solution screw up the gun or cause rust, oxidation, etc.
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Don't worry. Any commercial gun cleaning product will have enough of a lubricating-inhibiting effect to protect your gun while idle. Just get some oil or light grease on the contact points and you will be fine.

All of the above and more besides will work to clean and lube a gun. It is just a piece of light machinery and a lot of products in the automotive and industrial lineup will work just fine.

I bore clean most of the time with M-Pro 7 because it is low odor and nonflammable. But I have some Hoppes left, some Shooter's Choice, as well as free samples of Butch's Bore Shine, Blue Wonder, and Gunzilla. I lube with this that and the other, gun or machinery lubes. I got a Lucas Oil Conditioner (similar to STP) bottle with an ounce or two of dregs at the service station yesterday and will try that, probably thinned with light oil.

As the top competitor said when asked what he used on his guns: "Whatever they gave out a free sample of at the last match."
 
For areas that need grease instead of oil, I HIGHLY reccomend that lube from Berryhill that 1911 tuner raved about. One tub should last a lifetime, and can be had for under 10 bucks.

A basic theory with guns is this:

If it rotates, oil it. If it slides, grease it.
 
I've never liked grease in my carry guns. Yes the slide seems to function a little smoother but the grease attracts dust, lint, and it traps carbon when you shoot it making gum up in longer shooting sessions. I prefer Mobile 1 or Weaponshield. Both leave the metal relatively dry and slippery. Carbon wipes right off when cleaning. I use Hoppes #9 on the barrel the I lube everything with a VERY light amount of oil. My guns function fine and my M&P has now seen 1000s of rounds with out any visible wear at all.

Also, Mobile 1 is not effected by the cold. It will still flow freely at temperatures that will turn regular oils into goo.
 
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For cleaning, I use the ol' reliable Hoppe's #9 mostly. If I have a really dirty weapon with some reluctant gunk in hard to access places, I'll give it a shot of Birchwood-Casey Gun Scrubber.

I lube the slide rails of my autos with a tiny little dab of white lithium grease. Other lube points receive either Rem Oil or CLP. Works really well.
 
N.A.T.O. Approved!

840573.jpg




When the United States Military issued PD-48, a purchase description of properties for a single, multi-purpose product to maintain their weaponry, it became known as the "impossible specification" because of its severe requirements. The first product to meet the challenge - Break-Free CLP. Break-Free's flagship product, CLP is a unique formulation of synthetic oils and individual proprietary ingredients which synergize in combination to do three important tasks simultaneously: Effectively Clean, Lubricate and Protect metal. After years of rigorous testing, CLP actually exceeded the Military's requirements and was approved as a product to meet MIL-L-63460, a new specification. Break-Free CLP is now recognized around the world as the standard by which maximum metal performance and protection is ensured.



Penetrates and spreads along metal surfaces into every pit and crevice to undercut contamination and lift residue away where it can be removed.
Long-lasting lubricating film dramatically reduces adhesion of sand, grit or other abrasives which cause wear and failure.
Corrosion inhibitors prevent the formation of rust while Break-Free's unique boundary film protects metal surfaces from moisture and other contaminants.
Specially formulated synthetic oils won't lose viscosity, dry out or stiffen up in extreme environments - such as cold, heat, dust, dirt, humidity and even salt air - keeping equipment in ready condition for months at a time.
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