Best kind of autoloader lube?
- Thread starter Stinkyshoe
- Start date
- Status
loveipos1234
Member
Militec, FP-10 and Breakfree in that order for me. I do remember the old days of cleaning in Gasoline and lubing with Motor oil though. Still love the smell of Hoppe's.
45R
Member
FP10
Breakfree
Militec
Armalube
RemOil
I've had really good luck with these 5 lubes in oil
For grease
Jardines Ultimate Grease
TW25
Militec
Breakfree
Militec
Armalube
RemOil
I've had really good luck with these 5 lubes in oil
For grease
Jardines Ultimate Grease
TW25
Militec
DMK
Member
Excellent point. I believe that FP-10 is solvent free. Although it's technically a CLP, I think it's a lot better at L&P than it is at C.
I've been use Hoppe's #9 for cleaning, but I'm considering switching to Mpro 7 for health reasons.
Kentucky Rifle
Member In Memoriam
Militec-1 for me...
Militec works the first time you use it. But, by the third time you lube your pistol with Militec-1, it works REALLY good. The heat of firing the pistol and the heat from the slide moving is what makes Militec-1 fully work. Slick stuff. I've noticed that Militec doesn't evaporate very quickly either. Last week, I decided my Seecamp could use a good field strip, clean & lube. When I took the slide off--there was the Militec--still making the slide feel like it's on roller bearings.
KR
Militec works the first time you use it. But, by the third time you lube your pistol with Militec-1, it works REALLY good. The heat of firing the pistol and the heat from the slide moving is what makes Militec-1 fully work. Slick stuff. I've noticed that Militec doesn't evaporate very quickly either. Last week, I decided my Seecamp could use a good field strip, clean & lube. When I took the slide off--there was the Militec--still making the slide feel like it's on roller bearings.
KR
Another vote for not to use WD-40 OR carb. cleaner. A shooter came down to my range with a very rusted 1911 and after questioning, found out he used carb. cleaner but did not know enough to re-oil everything afterwards. WD-40 is not a lubricant and I worry about this. If you're going to clean and oil your firearm, why not use a product that was designed for this very use? After years of buying every product under the sun, I now have settled on just G-96 for cleaning and lubication on all my toys. I may use STOS or the Lubri-plate grease as used on my Garand for the slide and frame rails but not always. I've never had a single malfunction shooting hundreds of rounds in a firearm cleaned and lubed with G-96 even after being stored away for months.
sm
member
oldman, welcome to THR !
Yep G96 is great stuff.
STOS...oh my...ya know I may still have some of that in an old range bag...and yeah it really is , err ...umm ...that slick
Ok thats gotta be twenty years ago at least when I rec'd that in a shooter's kit before a competition...now I feel old...
Yep G96 is great stuff.
STOS...oh my...ya know I may still have some of that in an old range bag...and yeah it really is , err ...umm ...that slick
Ok thats gotta be twenty years ago at least when I rec'd that in a shooter's kit before a competition...now I feel old...
WD40 is just a slow-curing shellac at worst and a good crayon mark remover at best, IMHO.
I've been experimenting with Mobil 1 as a lubricant (so far, so good) and I use either Remington gun oil for light corrosion protection, RIG (moderate protection) or LPS#3 for long-term storage. A gun treated with LPS #3 needs to be disassembled and thoroughly cleaned before use. I do use WD40 to dissolve the LPS though. Then the gun gets wiped down, lightly lubed, oiled and wiped dry before use.
I've been experimenting with Mobil 1 as a lubricant (so far, so good) and I use either Remington gun oil for light corrosion protection, RIG (moderate protection) or LPS#3 for long-term storage. A gun treated with LPS #3 needs to be disassembled and thoroughly cleaned before use. I do use WD40 to dissolve the LPS though. Then the gun gets wiped down, lightly lubed, oiled and wiped dry before use.
Thank you re1973,
Just had to register on this forum, though at first I had a bit of a problem logging in and posting replies. Guess I'm OK now. This is a great forum and glad I found it, though now I have to divide my time between here and my other forum. Yes G-96 seems to do everything for me. Just spray it on, wipe off the glunk, wipe more on and just leave it. Wish I had this back in the service in '65. I get the impression that most shooters never heard of STOS or Lubri-plate or just that they never mention them. Must be an old-timers thing. Anyway, glad to be here.
Just had to register on this forum, though at first I had a bit of a problem logging in and posting replies. Guess I'm OK now. This is a great forum and glad I found it, though now I have to divide my time between here and my other forum. Yes G-96 seems to do everything for me. Just spray it on, wipe off the glunk, wipe more on and just leave it. Wish I had this back in the service in '65. I get the impression that most shooters never heard of STOS or Lubri-plate or just that they never mention them. Must be an old-timers thing. Anyway, glad to be here.
Moparmike
Member
Oh lord, I can see a new thread title now: "What would you use for solvents and lube in a SHTF/TEOTWAWKI situation?"
I too use latex gloves on the car. It is so satisfying to do something that coins the phrase "grease monkey" and still be clean afterwards.
I too use latex gloves on the car. It is so satisfying to do something that coins the phrase "grease monkey" and still be clean afterwards.
peashooter
Member
Hey WD-40 does have it's uses. I went to the range one day and my trusty carry gun didn't go BANG after pulling the trigger over and over. Well, I shot my Beretta and Springer and went home. After a quick diss-assembly and inspection I realized that there was a carbon buildup preventing the firing pin from striking the primer. So I got out the can of WD-40 and shot a LOT of WD-40 into the firing pin hole, also throughout inner parts of the slide.
After working the firing pin a few times I then blasted it with compressed air, the lubed it with CLP. It went bang just fine after that, so now I do the same treatment at least once a month and have had no further problems with FTF.
After working the firing pin a few times I then blasted it with compressed air, the lubed it with CLP. It went bang just fine after that, so now I do the same treatment at least once a month and have had no further problems with FTF.
Prof
Member
I have always used Breakfree as a cleaner and protector. I use Wilson's Ultima-Lube grease as a lube.
Autoloader Lube
Dear Stinkyshoe,
For the best lubrication and corrosion protection, I highly recommend Militec-1. It seals and conditions the metal and it makes the gunmetal self-lubricating.
Too much lubricant can actually attract and adhere dirt and fouling to the weapon. Militec's bonding with the metal "seals" the surface and makes dirt and fouling less likely to adhere and much easier to clean. I carry it on my site, but they'll even give you a free sample if you go to http://www.militec-1.com. Sorry, I can't carry free samples, but I'm a little guy.
I've been talking to them about carrying the grease as well, but Militec doesn't recommend greasing firearms. If there's enough interest in it, I would. It's hard for us old guys not to like a judicious dab of grease.
Be well,
Scarface
Dear Stinkyshoe,
For the best lubrication and corrosion protection, I highly recommend Militec-1. It seals and conditions the metal and it makes the gunmetal self-lubricating.
Too much lubricant can actually attract and adhere dirt and fouling to the weapon. Militec's bonding with the metal "seals" the surface and makes dirt and fouling less likely to adhere and much easier to clean. I carry it on my site, but they'll even give you a free sample if you go to http://www.militec-1.com. Sorry, I can't carry free samples, but I'm a little guy.
I've been talking to them about carrying the grease as well, but Militec doesn't recommend greasing firearms. If there's enough interest in it, I would. It's hard for us old guys not to like a judicious dab of grease.
Be well,
Scarface
My only problem with Militec is that it's TOO good.
I've been using it on a new 1911 and the break in period STILL ain't over even at over 800 rounds! :banghead:
It's not a problem though, really. I love the stuff, use it, and Breakfree on everything.
I've been using it on a new 1911 and the break in period STILL ain't over even at over 800 rounds! :banghead:
It's not a problem though, really. I love the stuff, use it, and Breakfree on everything.
loveipos1234
Member
Militec is great on knives, tools, heck, anything. Better than windex. I am thinking of using it on cuts and joint pain.
Seriously, it is the best...followed by FP-10 and Breakfree.
Seriously, it is the best...followed by FP-10 and Breakfree.
clubsoda22
member
call me ond fashioned, but i use hoppe's solvent and oil.
WD40 is a solvent, that is why it is good at freeing rusty, stuck parts. But once it dries, it is mostly gone.
I use Militec because when the fluid (mostly) dries it leaves a graphite film, but doesn't attract (too much) sand, dirt, etc.
I use Militec because when the fluid (mostly) dries it leaves a graphite film, but doesn't attract (too much) sand, dirt, etc.
kimbernut
Member
Getting back to basics. I've always been told that wd40 is a rust remover and of course gun blue is simply a form of controlled rust. I've used nothing but BreakFree CLP since 1988 for lightweight lube and Brownells grease for heavyweight lube(slide rails, bolt and barrel lugs,etc.)From all the mention of militech and examination of their website it may deserve a closer look.
pistolwhipped
Member
I really like Miltec-1 .
- Status
