best leather treatment?

[susieqz]

everybody seems to be in agreement about not softening the actual holster, but my tanker has straps going every which way. they are the parts that are over the shoulder n around my waist.
those i need soft but not weak.
in winter it wouldn't matter when i can put on lots of clothes, but it;s 95 today n i'm wearing the legal minimum.

 

[dfariswheel]

You're over-thinking this.

You applied a little oil and that worked......STOP.
There's no need for anything else especially anything inside the holster.

Apply a little wax once in a while to the holster and the outside of the straps to protect, and that's all it needs, probably for a bare minimum of at least a year.
People new to leather tend to WAY over oil or use all sorts of products looking for the "Best" treatment.

What you did is all that's needed, you're DONE. Go shooting.

 

[CraigC]

Big manufacturers are the reason for the myth about oil and there's a reason for it. They would rather YOU have to replace your dried out holster after 10-20yrs of use, than to have to replace them after a couple months because somebody got carried away with neatsfoot. The "NO OIL" policy is just to save them from the liability. Personally, as a small maker, I would rather depend on the prudence of my customers to follow instructions and only put a light coat of EVOO once a year. By the same token, if a holster gets returned that has been over-oiled or treated with Sno-Seal, they won't be getting a free replacement.

Like Red Cent said, this is a common discussion among small shop leathermakers. Some use Skidmore's, some use Lexol, some use neatsfoot or extra virgin olive oil. We ALL use something. Even John Bianchi himself immerses his rigs into warm neatsfoot before doing the final finish work. After leather has been tanned, repeatedly wetted, pounded, stamped and dyed, it needs its moisture replenished. Then it needs it periodically throughout its life. Contrary to popular belief, it does not soften holsters or cause the stitching to rot. All my work gets a good two or three coats of oil before I finish it and all leave the shop as stiff as they were after wet-forming.

 

[dfariswheel]

Which points up the fact that like all trades, individual craftsmen have their own ideas and experience of what's best.

There is no "ONE" right way.

 

[MartinS]

Maybe some dope from professional curators would help...

http://www.nps.gov/museum/publications/conserveogram/09-01.pdf

 

[susieqz]

thanks for the great article. martin. this subject is really complex.

as it turns out, the very light dressing of olive oil followed by wearing the holster lots made the straps nice.
i'm not sure if olive oil needs weeks to reach full potential or if it must be followed by lots of use to work it in but whichever, the leather is now very nice.
i looked silly tromping around the house wearing a gun, but this complicated rig now fits me like clothing, which is what i hoped for.
i can do outdoor work, hoeing, weeding n stuff without noticing it's on.
just perfect.

 

[HoosierQ]

Obenhauf's. It's not real pretty but it sure does work. Sno-Seal does too but it's STICKY. I mean real sticky. I made a pancake and sealed it inside and out with Sno-Seal. It quite literally glued my gun in place. Couldn't draw it. Not good. That doesn't happen with Obenhauf's. They also make an oil.

 

[jgh4445]

X2 Renaissance Museum Wax. Awesome stuff!

 

[susieqz]

that renaissance stuff looks really good.

 

[CraigC]

Martin's link is interesting but must also be kept in proper context. That context would be bookbinding as kept in a museum. A quote from the article worthy of note: "Another important consideration is that, except in the case of bookbindings, the function of historic leathers, and museum objects in general, is often changed from that of the object’s original function. Flexibility no longer plays an important role."

Gunleather in a museum is no longer subjected to the elements, exposed to sweat and body oils, changing atmospheric conditions or the holstering and carrying of firearms. Nor is it required to constantly move and flex. Here's another series of articles on leather, new and old:

http://www.jarnaginco.com/confedcatframe.html

There is no "ONE" right way.

Certainly not! There is always more than one way to skin a cat. But at the same time, there's nothing magic about the leather that Kramer or Milt Sparks use either. I treat all mine the same, whether I made it or someone else.