Best metering IMR powders
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Horskinator
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243winxb
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Charlie98
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Archie
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The best metering powder is the finest - the smallest sized - kernel. That may or may not be the fastest powder or the most accurate load. But the smallest kernel size. That's why ball or spherical powders usually meter more uniformly than extruded (stick) powders.
Charlie98
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Blue68f100
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The powder density has more to do with it than most think. A powder that is twice the density of another powder (same grain/kernel size) will give you less accurate powder drops due to the low volume. A high density powder requires very little powder so it's deviation due to smaller volume is much greater. A low density powder which requires a larger volume will give you a more accurate charge. This is comparing powders with the same granular size. Smaller the grain of powder the easier it goes through the dispenser. So ideally you want a small grain powder that is not dense, so it will fill up the cartridge making it easier to see.
Unfortunately powder size and density is all over the place, as well as different shapes. Some of the best rifle powders are tubular which do not meter the best but give you the results your after. With pistol powders I prefer powders that meter well and not dense, so I get case fill. Some of the high density powders are high in Nitro when makes them run extremely hot causing other problems. Like flame cutting on revolvers and making the barrels too hot to touch only after a few rounds. Beside not very forgiving on a over charge or bullet setback resulting in a very bad day.
In general, the smallest kernel powder will meter the best among stick powders.
Same goes for ball powders, the smaller the pieces the better it measures.
Most ball powders meter better than stick, but some of the small kernel stick meters very well.
When it comes to accuracy, stick powder has always ruled at long range.
Some powders don't meter all that great, but still shoot great.
Same goes for ball powders, the smaller the pieces the better it measures.
Most ball powders meter better than stick, but some of the small kernel stick meters very well.
When it comes to accuracy, stick powder has always ruled at long range.
Some powders don't meter all that great, but still shoot great.
Archie
Member
I got so caught up in the mechanics of the question, I omitted this bit of relevant information: Depending on the intended use, even a half grain of powder makes little difference. Those who consume themselves with uniformity perfection in charges should bed the action and barrel, lap the locking lugs, do something with the trigger, put serious sights (optics) on the firearm; then sort the brass by weight, trim all the brass, and uniform primer pockets prior to worrying about tenths of a grain of powder.
Handguns and handgun rounds are less subject to minor fluctuations in charge weight. As with rifles, one requires a fully tuned target pistol to note much difference in pistol ammo.
Handguns and handgun rounds are less subject to minor fluctuations in charge weight. As with rifles, one requires a fully tuned target pistol to note much difference in pistol ammo.
LiveLife
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Yes, your experience reflects mine.
N320 is cut extruded "stick" powder and Vectan powders are cut shorter with irregular thickness and Sport Pistol is cut even shorter but with uniform thickness. And Sport Pistol meters better than W231/HP-38 which is flattened ball powder due to Sport Pistol having smaller diameter "stick" cut thin and more consistent (While I can meter W231/HP-38 with around .1 gr variance, I can meter Sport Pistol with around .05 gr variance)
N320 cut "stick" powder compared to flatten ball powders W231/HP-38 and WST
W231/HP-38 compared to Vectan Ba 9/Ba 9.5 (Notice cut length of Vectan "sticks" are not consistent)
W231/HP-38 compared to Sport Pistol
And Lovex/Shooters World powders are even finer irregular mix of stick and ball granules and meters like water.
You should use the powder that shoots the best or is the most accurate for your gun. Even if a powder is difficult to load, if it shoots the best then that is what you will learn to use. I have used all three and like IMR3031 the best and IMR4895 the least.
LiveLife
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I agree.
While some powders may not meter as well, they sometimes still produce accuracy, even greater accuracy than powders that meter better.
So using holes on target and accuracy trend may be better than simply going by powder that meters better.
These are 50 yard 10 shot groups from my 17" Just Right carbine and while Promo meters with .2 gr variance and W231/HP-38 meters with .1 gr variance, Promo has consistently produced smaller groups than W231/HP-38 with different 95/100/115/124 gr bullets (Jacketed and thick plated).
And now I use Promo as my reference carbine load testing powder
Dudedog
Contributing Member
Neat powder pics here
http://www.ilrc.ucf.edu/powders/sample_detail.php?powder_id=163
(4198 in link, select powder from the drop down at the top)
While is is not a certain thing the smaller the powder grains/flakes/sticks are the better it will meter.
http://www.ilrc.ucf.edu/powders/sample_detail.php?powder_id=163
(4198 in link, select powder from the drop down at the top)
While is is not a certain thing the smaller the powder grains/flakes/sticks are the better it will meter.
@DD, thanks for posting (and reminding me of) that link.
I agree with this statement. I've never touched 3031 so have nothing to judge it by. I do throw a lot of IMR 4895 and 4198. Neither is a picnic but I've always thought that the extraordinary long, but thin, 4198 grains were a problem in a rotary type dispenser. Lots of crunching going on. I use 4198 in one of my pet loads, but throw it with a B&M Visible with fairly good (to me, anyway) results. But the Visible is a different animal in the powder dispenser world.
I agree with this statement. I've never touched 3031 so have nothing to judge it by. I do throw a lot of IMR 4895 and 4198. Neither is a picnic but I've always thought that the extraordinary long, but thin, 4198 grains were a problem in a rotary type dispenser. Lots of crunching going on. I use 4198 in one of my pet loads, but throw it with a B&M Visible with fairly good (to me, anyway) results. But the Visible is a different animal in the powder dispenser world.
Have not used 3031, but between 4198 & 4895, the 4895 runs best through the measure. Dillon 450 measure throws +/- .1 gr reliably. Of course, ball powders are smoother yet, H 450 throws +/- .05 gr. from the progressive measure.
My go to powders for 30-06 competition loads were H4895 out to 300 yds and H 450 for long range, all loaded on progressive press w/thrown charges. Unfortunately H 450 no longer supplied.
[QUOTE+Archie]I got so caught up in the mechanics of the question, I omitted this bit of relevant information: Depending on the intended use, even a half grain of powder makes little difference. Those who consume themselves with uniformity perfection in charges should bed the action and barrel, lap the locking lugs, do something with the trigger, put serious sights (optics) on the firearm; then sort the brass by weight, trim all the brass, and uniform primer pockets prior to worrying about tenths of a grain of powder.[/QUOTE]
As stated above, lots more to accuracy than worrying about .1 gr. accuracy through the measure. Did quite a lot of experimenting in that regard in over two decades of NRA XTC HP comp and, IMO, time spent weighing each powder charge can best be spent in other pursuits. I tried them all, abandoned some in favor of others and a couple of details seemed to pay larger dividends.
Again, this is my opinion only, FWIW:
First, choose a powder that results in as near a full case, but not compressed, load. Next, determine the accuracy nodes within the range of suggested data by running a Creighton Audett Ladder Test, as described here: https://precisionrifleblog.com/2012/07/13/creighton-audette-ladder-testing/
These nodes are points, within which, a few tenths of a grain of powder have least affect on POI. Do your homework here carefully and you'll save a lot of time in front of the powder scales which can be spent behind the trigger honing your shooting skills.
I tried all the case prep steps, sorting brass by weight, and never was satisfied that it bought me any points....maybe for benchrest shooters, but not in field or position shooting (offhand, sitting, prone).
Out to 300 yds, I found little to no benefit of neck turning cases. I did uniform primer pockets and that's about all that was done to produce these groups fired from prone, no artificial support.
100 yards (300 yd. reduced target) prone rapid fire.
100 yards (600 yd. reduced tgt) prone slow fire
At the longer ranges, I did neck turn and sort loaded rounds for bullet runout, which I think produced some benefits.
Give them all a try, then choose those that produce your desired results.
Regards,
hps
My go to powders for 30-06 competition loads were H4895 out to 300 yds and H 450 for long range, all loaded on progressive press w/thrown charges. Unfortunately H 450 no longer supplied.
[QUOTE+Archie]I got so caught up in the mechanics of the question, I omitted this bit of relevant information: Depending on the intended use, even a half grain of powder makes little difference. Those who consume themselves with uniformity perfection in charges should bed the action and barrel, lap the locking lugs, do something with the trigger, put serious sights (optics) on the firearm; then sort the brass by weight, trim all the brass, and uniform primer pockets prior to worrying about tenths of a grain of powder.[/QUOTE]
LiveLife said:
As stated above, lots more to accuracy than worrying about .1 gr. accuracy through the measure. Did quite a lot of experimenting in that regard in over two decades of NRA XTC HP comp and, IMO, time spent weighing each powder charge can best be spent in other pursuits. I tried them all, abandoned some in favor of others and a couple of details seemed to pay larger dividends.
Again, this is my opinion only, FWIW:
First, choose a powder that results in as near a full case, but not compressed, load. Next, determine the accuracy nodes within the range of suggested data by running a Creighton Audett Ladder Test, as described here: https://precisionrifleblog.com/2012/07/13/creighton-audette-ladder-testing/
These nodes are points, within which, a few tenths of a grain of powder have least affect on POI. Do your homework here carefully and you'll save a lot of time in front of the powder scales which can be spent behind the trigger honing your shooting skills.
I tried all the case prep steps, sorting brass by weight, and never was satisfied that it bought me any points....maybe for benchrest shooters, but not in field or position shooting (offhand, sitting, prone).
Out to 300 yds, I found little to no benefit of neck turning cases. I did uniform primer pockets and that's about all that was done to produce these groups fired from prone, no artificial support.
100 yards (300 yd. reduced target) prone rapid fire.
100 yards (600 yd. reduced tgt) prone slow fire
At the longer ranges, I did neck turn and sort loaded rounds for bullet runout, which I think produced some benefits.
Give them all a try, then choose those that produce your desired results.
Regards,
hps
Archie
Member
Regarding the initial question of which IMR powder meters most uniformly: I recently used a Dillon powder measure to throw charges for a load of IMR 4320. The results were quite uniform. IMR 4320 has a rather small kernel size. As mentioned in prior postings, the smallest kernels tend to be the most uniform.
IMR 4320 is a relatively 'quick' rifle powder, so it may not serve those needing a slower burning powder.
IMR 4320 is a relatively 'quick' rifle powder, so it may not serve those needing a slower burning powder.
IMR is producing some of their powders in a "short cut" version that is labeled IMR-xxxSC. You might check to see if any of the three is so made. The smaller the kernel the smaller the variation a powder measure will throw.
entropy
Member
I've used all 3 of those powders, but I can't answer your question. The only powder 'meter' I've ever used is the MEC bushings in my shotgun reloader. (Never tried stick powders through that, either!)
I use Lee dippers and select the one below the load I want to use, scoop one into the pan, then 'trickle' more in until it balances by shaking the dipper like a spoon with salt. I don't have to worry about metering that way, I get the exact amount of powder I want, and it isn't horribly slower than using a powder measure. (Obviously, I don't load on a progressive, but I would hope you aren't loading .38-55's on a progressive, either.)
I use Lee dippers and select the one below the load I want to use, scoop one into the pan, then 'trickle' more in until it balances by shaking the dipper like a spoon with salt. I don't have to worry about metering that way, I get the exact amount of powder I want, and it isn't horribly slower than using a powder measure. (Obviously, I don't load on a progressive, but I would hope you aren't loading .38-55's on a progressive, either.)
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