BEST WAY TO CLEAN POWDER RESIDUE OFF STAINLESS REVOLVER

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For minor carbon rings, nylon brush and your favorite gun cleaner will get it off. For something more extensive, darker, and burnt on? I like Flitz polish and the softest cloth you can find.
 
Hoppes #9. Soak and brush and wipe off. Not very difficult. I use nylon brushes.

This and lots of elbow grease. Eventually, you will get the black off the cylinder. Lots of "rinse and repeat".

Sometimes, I'll get industrious and spend the time to clean off the face of the cylinder. Mostly, not.
 
Add me to the list off Hoppe’s no. 9 and a stiff brush users. I coat the cylinder face with Hoppe’s then leave it a while, sometimes overnight then reapply liberally while brushing.

If it’s really bad and I have carbon in the chambers I will remove the cylinder and soak it for a day in Break-Free.
 
For my stainless steel revolvers i remove the cylinder and place it in Bore Tech Carbon Remover overnight (figure 10-12 hours). Then I just wipe it off with a rag. No need to scrub.
 
I use the Birchwood Casey cloth on my SS GP100 every 3rd or 4th time just to keep the crud from building up. I also do a quick wipe of frogslube after, which seems to help some with clean up.
 
Whatever solvent you choose give it time to work. Coat the dirty area with Hoppe's/Ballistol/CLP whatever your preference and let it sit a few hours at least, 24 hours is better. Wipe it off and repeat if you need to, but you probably won't need to. This is supposed to be fun. Don't get in a hurry.
 
I’ve used Flitz for 30 years. Never had a problem with my guns or customers guns.

I would really hate to have to take a thousandth of an inch off a cylinder face with flitz. I can't imagine the amount of rubbing that would take but it would be a LOT.

I don't get all twisted about having the cylinder face look new as it's going to get dirty as soon as you shoot the gun again. I wipe them off with Hoppe's, apply some paste wax, buff off and be done with it until next time.
 
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I have 2 sp101 would like to clean the carbon residue
I found that lead remover cloth usually works well.
I too have found a small piece of a lead "wipe-away" cloth will take the carbon residue right off a stainless revolver. I think it says in the instructions to not use a lead wipe-away cloth on blued guns.
 
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No time to mess with that. I spend my time shooting and I think it adds character to the pistol. Clean the barrel and cylinder from time to time, wipe her down and carry on...
 
I take a 4" deep, 4" x 4" glass Pyrex style dish, open the cylinder, lay the gun on the dish with the cylinder hanging inside and fill with Hoppes covering the cylinder and as much of the crane as possible. I leave it for a couple of days, going in from time to time and working the extractor mechanism to get the Hoppes behind it. I use a small paint brush to coat the crane and forcing cone-top strap area. Then I come back and flush with Birchwood Casey Bore Scrubber and it looks like new. For the barrel I stand the gun up, barrel facing down, crown sitting on top of a plastic seal and fill the barrel with Hoppes. Again I let it sit for a couple of days, then run a brush through it once and a patch till clean. I've been using this procedure for years.
I have a new S&W 617 .22LR that I think I will be doing that much more often. Those rimfire rounds are dirty!!!
 
I have heard of people using Flitz over extended periods of time increasing barrel/cylinder gap to the point it was discharging excess flame and debris out the sides.

I have used Flitz one time for such a chore but that was to get it ready to trade.

Personally, I prefer my guns to look used. Doesn't bother me a bit. And the soot comes right off with a rag soaked in Hoppes except for barrel breach and cylinder face.

Again, doesn't bother me.
 
I've tried about every product, and method, to keep my XVR-460 looking new. After all the previous scrubbing and soaking, I was shocked at how effortlessly the NEVR-DULL just wipes it off clean, like magic!
Try it.
 
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