Blackpowder Gunsmith
- Thread starter Stoney
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4v50, I checked the web page for the Log Cabin Shop and it did not mention gunsmith services. I'll give them a call on Monday and see what they have to say. The shop is about an hour drive north from were I live, It looks like it would be worth the drive just to visit the shop. Thanks .
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Pick up a copy of MuzzleBlasts and that always has a listing of gunsmiths. There are a lot of gunsmiths out there (blackpowder) and in reality, you can't do much with the trigger per se.
Triggers have to be placed into the stock for optimal performance, and that is determined by the skill of the gunbuilder.
Work on the lock (polishing the working surfaces and tuning them) is where a gunsmith can help affect the trigger pull. Jim Chambers (Siler locks) teaches a 3 day class at Bowling Green, KY once a year about how to assemble and tune locks. I haven't taken it yet but I took Jim's carving class at Conner Prarie (Fishers, IN) and "Marsh Jim" is a good instructor.
Triggers have to be placed into the stock for optimal performance, and that is determined by the skill of the gunbuilder.
Work on the lock (polishing the working surfaces and tuning them) is where a gunsmith can help affect the trigger pull. Jim Chambers (Siler locks) teaches a 3 day class at Bowling Green, KY once a year about how to assemble and tune locks. I haven't taken it yet but I took Jim's carving class at Conner Prarie (Fishers, IN) and "Marsh Jim" is a good instructor.
4v50, my troubles are not with trigger pull, my triggers do not work due to some internal problem with the lock. I have read that this is a problem with many Hatfield rifles. So you see, I would like a smith to give me options on the best way to fix my rifle.
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Out of curiousity, have you taken the lock out and played with it and if so, does it work well outside of the gun? If so, then what happened was after the gun left the factory, the wood was subjected to climate change caused by your area and some of the wood may have "swollen" (or it continues in its "drying" or "warping" process). In that case, the lock is fine and more wood needs to be removed.
You can blacked the suspected moving parts and refit the lock. Cock and and snap it (use a piece of wood as a substitute for a flint) several times and then remove the lock. Where you see "black", you can remove with a carving knife (or shhh.... very light application with a dremel). You then reblacked the parts and restore it to the gun and test again. Repeat as often as necessary.
You can blacked the suspected moving parts and refit the lock. Cock and and snap it (use a piece of wood as a substitute for a flint) several times and then remove the lock. Where you see "black", you can remove with a carving knife (or shhh.... very light application with a dremel). You then reblacked the parts and restore it to the gun and test again. Repeat as often as necessary.
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The lock is secured by the screws on the left side of the stock (opposite the lock). I'd place the lock on half cock and then back the (generally two) screw(s) out. The lock should come out quite readily by pulling on it (at the hammer - be sure finger is off the trigger). Very simple procedures and the better trained soldiers (Cleburne's Division) of the War of the Rebellion (Civil War) were trained in it. If a soldier can do it, so can you.
4v50
I removed the lock as you suggested, I can't belive how easy it was. The lock is an L & R by the way. as it turns out the lock works fine. The trigger mechanism seems to be the problem.
After connecting the trigger to the lock and getting it to work, it would break again after several dry fires. I did this three more time with the same results. So now it seems to be a trigger problem ( I hope ) as I think getting a new trigger would be easier than finding a new lock for this rifle.
I removed the lock as you suggested, I can't belive how easy it was. The lock is an L & R by the way. as it turns out the lock works fine. The trigger mechanism seems to be the problem.
After connecting the trigger to the lock and getting it to work, it would break again after several dry fires. I did this three more time with the same results. So now it seems to be a trigger problem ( I hope ) as I think getting a new trigger would be easier than finding a new lock for this rifle.
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Not sure what you mean by "break again?"
Does the gun have a set trigger (double trigger) or single trigger? Single triggers are not highly sophisticated mechanical items. It consists of the trigger and the pin upon which it pivots. Does it pivot freely?
If it's a set trigger, see if it functions without the lock installed.
If yes to either, then it could be the fitting of the lock to the gun. Please keep me informed.
Does the gun have a set trigger (double trigger) or single trigger? Single triggers are not highly sophisticated mechanical items. It consists of the trigger and the pin upon which it pivots. Does it pivot freely?
If it's a set trigger, see if it functions without the lock installed.
If yes to either, then it could be the fitting of the lock to the gun. Please keep me informed.
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Humor me please.
Set trigger works fine when the lock is out, right? Lock works fine when it's out right?
If both are true, reinstall the lock. Now, bring the gun to half cock and then squeeze the rear trigger. You should have a click. Now, bring the gun the full cock. It should have a light hammer fall. Repeat four times.
Make sure you use a piece of wood in lieu of a frizzen or have a piece of rubber or silicone over the nipple if its percussion.
Set trigger works fine when the lock is out, right? Lock works fine when it's out right?
If both are true, reinstall the lock. Now, bring the gun to half cock and then squeeze the rear trigger. You should have a click. Now, bring the gun the full cock. It should have a light hammer fall. Repeat four times.
Make sure you use a piece of wood in lieu of a frizzen or have a piece of rubber or silicone over the nipple if its percussion.
Not sure who/if the Log Cabin has for a resident 'smith but I'm sure of one thing. The trip there is worth the time even if it takes three hours instead of the one you mention. I've been going there on an occaisional basis since the late '60s and I've always come away better off than I arrived, it's worth the trip.
Don in Ohio
Don in Ohio
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