Blue woder Gun Cleaner Users

[Jack Reevez]

I have recently ordered 3 large tubes of it (havent received them yet). I guess i am
impressed form what i have read so far on the net. But i do have a few queries about it.

1. i have 4 handguns , 2 shotguns and acouple of rifles. How long does a tube
last... i mean on the average. I dont shoot much these days. rarely ever shoot
my shotguns. i do shoot the handguns though..every now and then.
2. Is it harh on the gun metal or bad for it? i mean using it often?
3. Most of the sites say thats its applied with a brush. Can it be applied with
a patch as well? If yes, then are the results as good as if applied with a patch?
4. I use Hoppes lubricating oil. They say its imperetive to use a good lubricating
oil after using Blue wonder cleaner. s Hoppes good enuff for that to prevent Rust?

Thanks everyone.

 

[BammaYankee]

Forget that goop! I used to use it until I found a better way... Get a can of Break Free bore foam. Clean bore first with Birchwood Casey and nylon brushes and run a couple dry patches, 2) squirt in the foam and let sit for 15 minutes, 3) run a couple dry patches, then 4) use some Mil Com oil followed by another dry patch. The foam makes life simple and eats copper fouling like a champ!

Maybe there's a better way but it works great for me.

 

[Ala Dan]

Keep the Blue Wonder Gun Cleaner away from nickel plated firearms~! It will cuz the nickel to peel~!

 

[mike101]

What is good to use on Nickel? I have never had a nickel-plated gun, but I will when Ford's returns my Dad's old Frontier Scout.

 

[mainmech48]

Wish I could help you on that one, mike101. With 'traditional' nickel plating it may be tough to find a firearms-specific solvent/cleaning agent that won't eventually affect the adhesion to some degree.

Conventional decorative electroplating - nickel, chrome or whatever - forms a "mechanical" bond with the base metal. Usually, there are two or more layers or different materials involved. One of those is commonly copper.

Where the problems usually start is when solvent migrates under the final finsh coat through minute imperfections, surface scratches or the like and attacks the copper base coat. Weaken or dissolve that, and there's nothing for the nickel to hold onto and flaking/peeling result. Some penetrating oil/rust solvent products like "Kroil" or "Liquid Wrench" can break the mechanical bond by infiltrating between the base coat of plating material and the metal. Same result.

The speed and degree of deterioration depend in large part upon the relative integrity of the top coating's surface, how 'antagonistic' the product is towards copper and how long it remains in contact. The best advice I can offer is to use the least amount of the least 'aggressive' solvent you can find and remove it as quickly and thoroughly as possible. It may also help if you try and neutralize any residue by washing and rinsing with hot water. After drying apply a light coat of a solvent-free protectant/lubricant.

The only firearm I have with a 'decorative' nickel finish is an 1858 Remington replica. As it never sees any cleaning solvent but detergent and hot water, it's held up very well with moderate use.

All of my other 'plated' firearms have been done with the newer electrochemical processes where the bond between the base metal and the finish is established on the molecular level. They have proven to be virtually unaffected by any of the solvents I've used, no matter how strong.

 

[Bigmatt91783]

G96 is the best cold blueing cream i have used and for nickle i use flitz just dont rub in one spot be gentle with it

 

[50 Shooter]

I personally didn't like Blue Wonder, there are better products out there that do a better job. My favorite solvent is Boretech's Eliminator solvent, it has no ammonia in it so it's safe to use indoors.

Haven't tried any of the foaming cleaners but from what I hear they work pretty well also.

 

[Ala Dan]

I have NEVER used Blue Wonder on the bore or firearms; only as an
external cleanser; with Break Free CLP always used on the bores.

As for nickel, Flitz Metal Polish requires too much elbow grease; so
I prefer Simichrome, the same stuff used on chrome of motorcycles.

 

[kingjoey]

I personally prefer Blue Wonder for a lot of applications. For lightly dirty bores I use Hoppes #9 or CLP, but for really dirty or fouled bores BW works great. I've tried a lot of cleaners and that stuff will clean out gunk that the others missed. Not sure what's in it exactly, but it works well.

 

[Average Joe]

I use Blue Wonder, its OK, but there is better stuff out there. I finish with CLP.