Cannonball888
Member
OK. Which is rounded and which is square 
Bohica ar 50bmg uppers for under $1k
- Thread starter hornadylnl
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iamkris
Member
Ummm...the hammer with the rounded "nose" is rounded, and the one with the square nose is the square one
Cannonball888
Member
So, if I have a square one, can I just round it with a grinder? I don't like th idea of a stuck bolt I have to free with a stick according to Doc.
madmike
Member
If you use an M16 hammer, you must grind off the "hook" at the rear, that engages the auto disconnector.
You may have the face either with the round top, or the notched top in an AR. The only bit that matters is the hook for the disconnector.
The notched top gives a measure of safety against a runaway, should the disconnector spring fail. It prevents a slam-fire on closing.
It is not illegal to have the rounded nose on the hammer. It was standard for years and a great many makers still use them.
You may have the face either with the round top, or the notched top in an AR. The only bit that matters is the hook for the disconnector.
The notched top gives a measure of safety against a runaway, should the disconnector spring fail. It prevents a slam-fire on closing.
It is not illegal to have the rounded nose on the hammer. It was standard for years and a great many makers still use them.
CB888:
Yes, I removed my Bushmaster upper, then released the hammer so it stood in the "fired" position. Then, I used my Dremel and ground about 1/16" to 1/8" off of the squared edges on the front/top of the hammer, thus placing a rounded edge. I tried it several times inorder to take off the absolute MINIMAL amount of steel. This alteration does NOT effect functioning with the Bushmaster upper.
Doc2005
Yes, I removed my Bushmaster upper, then released the hammer so it stood in the "fired" position. Then, I used my Dremel and ground about 1/16" to 1/8" off of the squared edges on the front/top of the hammer, thus placing a rounded edge. I tried it several times inorder to take off the absolute MINIMAL amount of steel. This alteration does NOT effect functioning with the Bushmaster upper.
Doc2005
MadMike:
Re: pictures in post #150: Exactly...mine is the AR-15 type...on the right. The squared edges on the upper / left part of the AR picture, those are the two squared edges that I rounded ever so slightly. Don't lob off half of the hammer. Take off ever so little at a time, and simply create a rounded edge to those squared points.
Doc2005
Re: pictures in post #150: Exactly...mine is the AR-15 type...on the right. The squared edges on the upper / left part of the AR picture, those are the two squared edges that I rounded ever so slightly. Don't lob off half of the hammer. Take off ever so little at a time, and simply create a rounded edge to those squared points.
Doc2005
Taurus44
Member
Hmm... I bought a Jard 3# adjustable trigger for my BOHICA lower. I'll have to look at it again. I'd hate to have to grind anything off of it.
PTK: When are you coming over to shoot that thing?!?
PTK: When are you coming over to shoot that thing?!?
iamkris
Member
Taurus44 -- I'm with you...I don't want to leave my stock trigger in my new rifle...was planning on dropping in a RRA 2-stage NM unit. Now it looks like I'll have to grind off the sharp edges.
Bohica_arms
Member
Hi Guys! -
The last few uppers will go out today or tomorrow.
I want to say thanks to everybody for their patience and help in getting this first batch thru to shipment. It's been a LOT of work but now had become very rewarding getting customer feedback regarding the uppers.
Been swamped the last two weeks so I've had very limited time to offer any help. But thought I'd jump in on the hammer issue.
Here's what I've found,
The original AR-15 hammer is radiused like an M-16 hammer. that works the best, The M-16 hammer is legal and is used by some manufacturers because of decreased cost (Hesse,Vulcan for sure, possibly OLY as well)
If you have an M-16 hammer, you need to grind down the WIDTH of the disconnector catch on the back of the hammer so it will fit thru the slot in the upper. I've had a couple customers report this works fine.
If you have an A2 style "notched" hammer, it WILL work, I've had ONE that stuck the tube, but they do make it stiffer to cycle the bolt.
I have radiused the top notch on several hammers until you can just see the notch. This works the best, it's completely legal, and WILL work with both the .223 and 50 uppers.
As far as the third party triggers, I've not tested any of them as there is a wide variety available. I have the Jard in a couple of my target .223 AR's and really like it. I suspect that the Jard hammer spring will NOT be stiff enough to give reliable ignition, Especially with tough military primers. I don't think you wouuld need to grind the hammer on a Jard though as it lays back further when it's snagged by the trigger.
I have NOT tried or personally used a McCormick in any of my rifles, I think that it would be similar to the Jard though.
Please let me know your experiences RE: third party triggers if you choose to try them.
Next topic - Bolt Catch
Bolt catches are necessary only if you plan on swapping from the .223 to the 50 and back. EVERYBODY that got an upper WILL get a bolt catch at NO CHARGE. ..........But due to the amount of crap I caught RE the shipping date, they will ship later. I am having them investment cast just like the Mil-spec units.
If you HAVE to have one real quick, I have a FEW machined ones available. Please call or E-mail with a good reason (Such as I'm leaving for the sandbox in the AM) and I'll get you one of the hen's teeth. Otherwise expect to see them in about 6 weeks.
BUFFER TUBES - It has also come up that some guys are finding their bolts don't slide very easliy. We have tracked this down to a buffer tube that is either bent, or one that is of a fabricated design that is welded from 3 pieces. I would suggest a replacement buffer tube from Model1sales.com (no affiliation) they are $9 and I've never seen a bent one yet.
The other thing customers are doing are putting a slight radius on the inside corner of the buffer tube with a Dremel tool. I will make a revision on the next batch to put a 15degree taper on the plastic end cap to eliminate this potential problem. If anybody wants this mod done send your stripped bolt tube back to me and I'll do it at no charge.
BUTT PADS,
I've got pad molds made for the ACE ARFX stock, Magpul PRS Stock and the Mil-spec A-2 Stock. The pads will be black and are about 1 1/2" thick silicone. The drasticly reduce felt recoil. The ACE amd Magpul pads include an aluminum back plate, the A2 pad is a slip over.
Please let me know if you want one, they will be the next item on the production line.
Thanks again!
Chris Rosequist
Bohica Arms Corp
(763) 441-2151
(This is posted on THR and ARF.com)
The last few uppers will go out today or tomorrow.
I want to say thanks to everybody for their patience and help in getting this first batch thru to shipment. It's been a LOT of work but now had become very rewarding getting customer feedback regarding the uppers.
Been swamped the last two weeks so I've had very limited time to offer any help. But thought I'd jump in on the hammer issue.
Here's what I've found,
The original AR-15 hammer is radiused like an M-16 hammer. that works the best, The M-16 hammer is legal and is used by some manufacturers because of decreased cost (Hesse,Vulcan for sure, possibly OLY as well)
If you have an M-16 hammer, you need to grind down the WIDTH of the disconnector catch on the back of the hammer so it will fit thru the slot in the upper. I've had a couple customers report this works fine.
If you have an A2 style "notched" hammer, it WILL work, I've had ONE that stuck the tube, but they do make it stiffer to cycle the bolt.
I have radiused the top notch on several hammers until you can just see the notch. This works the best, it's completely legal, and WILL work with both the .223 and 50 uppers.
As far as the third party triggers, I've not tested any of them as there is a wide variety available. I have the Jard in a couple of my target .223 AR's and really like it. I suspect that the Jard hammer spring will NOT be stiff enough to give reliable ignition, Especially with tough military primers. I don't think you wouuld need to grind the hammer on a Jard though as it lays back further when it's snagged by the trigger.
I have NOT tried or personally used a McCormick in any of my rifles, I think that it would be similar to the Jard though.
Please let me know your experiences RE: third party triggers if you choose to try them.
Next topic - Bolt Catch
Bolt catches are necessary only if you plan on swapping from the .223 to the 50 and back. EVERYBODY that got an upper WILL get a bolt catch at NO CHARGE. ..........But due to the amount of crap I caught RE the shipping date, they will ship later. I am having them investment cast just like the Mil-spec units.
If you HAVE to have one real quick, I have a FEW machined ones available. Please call or E-mail with a good reason (Such as I'm leaving for the sandbox in the AM) and I'll get you one of the hen's teeth. Otherwise expect to see them in about 6 weeks.
BUFFER TUBES - It has also come up that some guys are finding their bolts don't slide very easliy. We have tracked this down to a buffer tube that is either bent, or one that is of a fabricated design that is welded from 3 pieces. I would suggest a replacement buffer tube from Model1sales.com (no affiliation) they are $9 and I've never seen a bent one yet.
The other thing customers are doing are putting a slight radius on the inside corner of the buffer tube with a Dremel tool. I will make a revision on the next batch to put a 15degree taper on the plastic end cap to eliminate this potential problem. If anybody wants this mod done send your stripped bolt tube back to me and I'll do it at no charge.
BUTT PADS,
I've got pad molds made for the ACE ARFX stock, Magpul PRS Stock and the Mil-spec A-2 Stock. The pads will be black and are about 1 1/2" thick silicone. The drasticly reduce felt recoil. The ACE amd Magpul pads include an aluminum back plate, the A2 pad is a slip over.
Please let me know if you want one, they will be the next item on the production line.
Thanks again!
Chris Rosequist
Bohica Arms Corp
(763) 441-2151
(This is posted on THR and ARF.com)
iamkris
Member
Chris
HUGE kudos for taking the time to keep everyone updated and for your transparency.
As for triggers, I'm really wanting to put in the RRA 2-stage NM trigger...I'll probably put a Wolff extra power hammer spring in it an hope it doesn't negate the nice trigger pull that the RRA has. I'll play with the radius at the hammer top and let you know once I get my upper.
As for the recoil pad for the Magpul PRS, please put me in line...I have a PRS on my lower that I'll use for your upper and was going to make my own pad. Now I'll just get it from you.
Kris
HUGE kudos for taking the time to keep everyone updated and for your transparency.
As for triggers, I'm really wanting to put in the RRA 2-stage NM trigger...I'll probably put a Wolff extra power hammer spring in it an hope it doesn't negate the nice trigger pull that the RRA has. I'll play with the radius at the hammer top and let you know once I get my upper.
As for the recoil pad for the Magpul PRS, please put me in line...I have a PRS on my lower that I'll use for your upper and was going to make my own pad. Now I'll just get it from you.
Kris
50 Shooter
member
Check out the cover of the latest Very High Power (VHP) mag put out by the FCSA www.fcsa.org it has pics from the world championships at Raton this year.
Just think, all you guys with your uppers could be there next year shooting in Hunter class.
Just think, all you guys with your uppers could be there next year shooting in Hunter class.
My upper should arrive tomorrow....
'Twas the night before fifty-blasts and all through the 'hood
Not a person was stirring, no bad guys, no good
The tracking number sent, packaged with care
Transmitted o'er lines, hung through the air
Shipment expected, the twenty-first
A day later, at the very worst
"Woohoo" was exclaimed with a glorious shout,
Shortly thereafter, laughter rang out
The lower was ready, the scope had its rings
An assortment of targets, all manner of things
I had to exclaim, as the hours slowly passed,
"Happy fifty cals to all, and to all a good blast!"
'Twas the night before fifty-blasts and all through the 'hood
Not a person was stirring, no bad guys, no good
The tracking number sent, packaged with care
Transmitted o'er lines, hung through the air
Shipment expected, the twenty-first
A day later, at the very worst
"Woohoo" was exclaimed with a glorious shout,
Shortly thereafter, laughter rang out
The lower was ready, the scope had its rings
An assortment of targets, all manner of things
I had to exclaim, as the hours slowly passed,
"Happy fifty cals to all, and to all a good blast!"
iamkris
Member
What scope are you guys choosing? I know the Leupold and Nightforce usually get the nod...any others?
iamkris
Member
I like the Burris scopes a lot...I have one on my Tikka T3 that is really nice.
Will be interested in how it holds up to recoil. I'm going a bit cheap as well...spending around $300 vs the $1000 on a scope that most people recommend.
Anyone else have experience in durability of non-Leupold/Nightforce scopes. Yes, I know if you buy those you'll never regret it...just interested in dissenting opinions.
Will be interested in how it holds up to recoil. I'm going a bit cheap as well...spending around $300 vs the $1000 on a scope that most people recommend.
Anyone else have experience in durability of non-Leupold/Nightforce scopes. Yes, I know if you buy those you'll never regret it...just interested in dissenting opinions.
-C4-
Member
Be careful with cheap scopes on a .50. My friend tested out several cheap scopes on his Barrett. Most if not all of them failed after just a few rounds. The failures were not dangerous, but the lenses were knocked out of alignment and were useless after. Unless of course you need to shoot at a barn from inside.
Taurus44
Member
I'll probably use a Bushnell Elite on mine. I have them on a bunch of other assorted rifles, and I've been very pleased with them.
Bohica_arms
Member
Kris,
I've got a Burris Fullfield II balistic plex on my test upper, It's had 650+ rounds thru it and still holds zero. I have tried Tasco and BSA and they only last for about 100 rounds or so. I know a bunch of guys went with the super sniper from swfa.com they're about $300 and hold up, but they're fixed magnification.
just my .02
Chris Rosequist
Bohica Arms Corp
I've got a Burris Fullfield II balistic plex on my test upper, It's had 650+ rounds thru it and still holds zero. I have tried Tasco and BSA and they only last for about 100 rounds or so. I know a bunch of guys went with the super sniper from swfa.com they're about $300 and hold up, but they're fixed magnification.
just my .02
Chris Rosequist
Bohica Arms Corp
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