Bought A Winchester 94, Runs Like Hell (Help Me Jim K?)

Status
Not open for further replies.
P

Pictures

Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2010
Messages
156
So I bought a Winchester 94 after many years of wanting one. I get it today and it just runs like hell. It actually hurts my right hand to operate the thing. It's from 1970, but I was told it was hardly operated at all, so maybe it just needs some breaking in?

First off, getting it apart was easy, but putting it back together was one of the worst experiences of my life. I still don't know if I'm putting the trigger assembly back together correctly. I tried looking up instructions, but all the triggers are different from my own. Here's what mine looks like.

bcf7394c.gif

So, I guess I need to find out:

1. How do I correctly put the trigger and hammer assembly back into the rifle?
2. How do I smooth up the action so that it doesn't feel like it was built from stone?
3. How do I load this thing without the bullets popping back out again?
4. How do I keep empty shells from hitting me in the head? I've had a couple now that have smacked me right in the glasses.

Thanks.
 
Last edited:
http://www.castbullet.com/misc/tdown.htm

There's only one way to do it right. If you don't follow the precise order, you're going to be in a losing fight with the mind of JM Browning. Note the numerical order of screw removals, and reverse for reassembly.

Can't speak to the trigger feel. Usually these rifles get better with age.

The top-eject is somewhat controllable by your own speed of ejection. I used to be able to land 9/10 shells from a particular 94 on the top of my rimmed hat, then empty the rim afterwards. If you are lower the rifle to waist level to cycle that's probably why the brass is hitting you in the face. Leave it up on your shoulder when you cycle.

The cartridges you put into the magazine should not be coming back out. Not sure what the problem is there. There's a little piece of steel that acts to block the rim of the round nearest the receiver, and it dips down when the elevator lowers.
 
Last edited:
I don't know what you have there, but I have never seen a 94 Win with a mainspring like that! It must be an aftermarket spring set-up of some kind.

Pre-64's used a single flat lief spring with a strain screw.
Post-64's used a coil spring with a spring guide.

Yours appears to have a hole for a strain screw, but instead has a second short spring under the mainspring applying upward pressure??

On yours, you will need to put the assembled lower tang in, then put the hammer in while compressing the mainspring/springs while you slip the hammer screw in.

rc
 
"There's only one way to do it right. If you don't follow the precise order, you're going to be in a losing fight with the mind of JM Browning. Note the numerical order of screw removals, and reverse for reassembly."

Getting it back together isn't an issue really, it's just getting the trigger and hammer back in that I'm having a problem with.

"Can't speak to the trigger feel. Usually these rifles get better with age."

I'm not having any issues with the way the trigger feels, it's the lever action that I'm having difficulty with. It's smooth until the bolt hits the hammer to push it back, then it gets rough.

"The top-eject is somewhat controllable by your own speed of ejection. I used to be able to land 9/10 shells from a particular 94 on the top of my rimmed hat, then empty the rim afterwards. If you are lower the rifle to waist level to cycle that's probably why the brass is hitting you in the face. Leave it up on your shoulder when you cycle."

I am leaving it up on my shoulder. That's when it's hitting me in the face.

____________________________________________________

"I don't know what you have there, but I have never seen a 94 Win with a mainspring like that! It must be an aftermarket spring set-up of some kind.

Pre-64's used a single flat lief spring with a strain screw.
Post-64's used a coil spring with a spring guide. Yours appears to have a hole for a strain screw, but instead has a second short spring under the mainspring applying upward pressure?? "

I'm not sure that's true. Check this photo for a post 64 top eject standard model rifle. I believe that's my trigger group to the right. While I can identify my trigger group there, I still can't get it into the damn rifle!

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Products.aspx?catid=7520



"On yours, you will need to put the assembled lower tang in, then put the hammer in while compressing the mainspring/springs while you slip the hammer screw in."

Oh, I've tried, and after about 45 minutes of trying to get five holes lined up, I can usually get it together, but should it be that difficult? And should the levering action run to unsmoothly?
 
Maybe at this point ditch that weird double spring and use a regular one. That would probably fix the overly-stiff hammer on the lever stroke as well.

I am leaving it up on my shoulder. That's when it's hitting me in the face.
Click to expand...

Yeah something is off there.
 
How can I switch it out? My lower tang has the lug and the lower tangs with the spring don't have the lugs.

Also, maybe I should note that when the shells hit me in the face, they are fully loaded and not empty. I haven't actually fired the thing yet, just cycled some ammo through.
 
What about getting a new lower tang?

Also, maybe I should note that when the shells hit me in the face, they are fully loaded and not empty. I haven't actually fired the thing yet, just cycled some ammo through.
Click to expand...

OK, well that's the problem. Once empty they should be making an arcing trajectory over your head. I'm sure they will.
 
I doubt if switching out the lower tang is an option.

The Pre-64 tang & mainspring would be different, as would the hammer.

The older design had a swinging hammer stirrup that the mainspring hooks on.

This rifle is nothing at all like that.

As for difficulity of taking them apart?
They were never intended to be taken apart for normal cleaning.

I have seen a lot of 100+ year old Winchester lever-actions that have never had a screw turned since they were made that work just fine.

I also agree it will sling empty cases well over your head.
Most folks would want to catch the cartridge when they unload a live round.

rc
 
Ok, so how would I go about smoothening up the action then? Should I polish the hammer up with a dremmel or just wait for the bolt and hammer to naturally wear down with use?
 
Just tried an empty, unfired case...still hit me in the head...

Guess we'll see if that changes once I actually fire it.
 
Are you operating the lever with the gun at your shoulder?

Or held down at waist level like "shooting from from the hip"??

rc
 
Good news, gun ran and extracted shells with no problem. Bad news, my gun shoots to the right.

Any way to correct that with the sights besides holding to the left?
 
A brass punch and a small hammer.

If it shoots to the right?

Move the rear sight to the left.
Or, the front sight to the right.

Just a very small amount at a time.

rc
 
Last edited:
You should be able to relieve some of the tension on the mainspring to assemble it. Your lower tang assembly is standard for that period.

You can slick up the action some if done carefully (no dremels required!!!!, use stones or 400-600 wet or dry paper on a piece of glass). Working the action a while helps, or can be used to establish the points that need to be stoned or gently polished. Avoid dry firing this gun, they tend to break firing pin tips off when dry fired. The older guns are more apt to I believe, the firing pins are heavier in them.

If its hard to load rounds into the gate, it can be slicked up. Most just seem to accept it (and think it's normal) and try to use work arounds, like not pushing each round all the way in when loading to deal with it. When they work properly, there's no need to not push each round all the way in when loading, they should all load slick as deer guts on a door knob at any point. The gate has a small rib on the back of it that cams the last round in slightly forward to let the next round in. Polishing and deburring that rib is all it takes. Dont cross thread the screw when putting it back together, that's the hardest part of it.
 
That type of double mainspring is factory on late guns, though I can't guess at why they went to it.

Assembly is made easier by using lock jaw pliers with padded jaws to compress the mainspring while inserting the hammer. An old fashioned spring vise can be used also, but the pliers work fine. (Just don't let them go quickly; it is sudden release that breaks springs, not compression.)

Jim
 
Put a little Lubriplate or other grease on the hammer where it contacts the bolt and it will move easier.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

P
  • Locked
Bought A Winchester 94, Runs Like Hell
Replies
6
Views
555
Robert
Robert
D
  • Locked
Winchester 1897 Problem - Hammer/Trigger Stuck
Replies
3
Views
1K
Shanghai McCoy
S
rbernie
  • Locked
Sig P226 Help
Replies
4
Views
759
rbernie
rbernie
C
  • Locked
1908 Winchester Model 94 Disassembly Help
Replies
18
Views
897
shooter1niner
shooter1niner
C
  • Locked
Savage Sporter 23A
Replies
2
Views
291
beag_nut
B
Back
Top