brass cleaning poll

Brass Cleaning

  • Dry Tumble

    Votes: 194 69.8%
  • SS Wet Tumble

    Votes: 40 14.4%
  • Ultra Sound

    Votes: 8 2.9%
  • other / combination of above

    Votes: 36 12.9%

  • Total voters
    278
  • Poll closed .
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I've only tried dry tumbling ( for about 20 years) and just recently dicovered the dryer sheet trick. I keep the used ones from the dryer and they really do hold down the dust, they come out filthy and the brass is shiney.
 
Dry tumbled for 38 years, worked well on outside of cases, used red walnut treated.
Now I use SS Pin processing and use my vibratory units to final polish loaded handgun ammo in corncob/NuFinish mixture.

Started SS Pin processing after starting to compete in 1000 yard and 1-mile target competitions. My quest to manufacture "perfect' ammo drove the decision to try SS Pins.

I am now setup to run 4 barrels of tumbling media at once, and my drying setup takes about 15-30 minutes total ( it will "float" brass in a column of air and will scatter 9mm brass if not covered).
 
I dry tumble use a mix of corn cob, walnut and dry rice. Seems to work for me. I understand the need for clean brass for reloading and being shiny sure looks nice but does the animal or target you are shooting really care if your brass has some spots or stains on them?
 
Dry to date. Current practice: Initial cleaning with crushed walnut in tumbler #1, decap and size, polish with corncob in tumbler #2. Has worked well thus far. Thinking about a wet tumbler, though.

OldmanFCSA, tell us more about this:
... my drying setup takes about 15-30 minutes total (it will "float" brass in a column of air and will scatter 9mm brass if not covered).
 
Started reloading about 3 months ago (For the second time, originally reloaded rifle in the 70's).
Loading 9 40 and 45. buying once fired (try to avoid range scrounged) and cleaning.
Started with walnut and polishing compound in vibratory, but was no happy with interior of case.
This I sheer conjecture on my part, but it would seem that the build of burnt powder byproducts on the interior of the case could possibly create pressure issues as well as accuracy issues.
Decided to give SS needle cleaning a shot.
Found this site http://biggdawgtumblers.net/
But I'm a cheap @ss and wanted to build my own, ran across Big Dawgs orginal design post in Arf.com http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/344986_How_i_built_my_own_rotary_tumbler.html
He lists with links, all his components. Saves a heck of a lot of time.
Min is virtually identical to his with the exception of the switch. I used plastic commercial water resistant style that uses plastic tubing between junction boxes. I then added a moisture proof On/Off industrial style switch, and located it on the end of the motor mounting block.
In his parts list, he indicates 7' of tubing, if you can a 7' piece you're good to go. If you have to buy 2 pieces, go with 2 4' pieces.
The rubber cap I purchased would not fit the reducer, I happened to be in Menards and checked their rubber cap against their reducer and it fit just fine.
The reducer from Lowes was coded DP06, the one from Menards was MP06. The walls of the 4" end were thinner on the MP06, so be careful there.
Also the raw material from Menards were about 2/3 the cost of Lowes.
YMMV
 
Dry tumble with crushed walnut media and a spoonful of white auto polish. I also add a dryer sheet to help keep down the dust. Also, your ammo will be soft and Mountain Morning fresh.
 
Dry tumble with crushed walnut media and a spoonful of white auto polish. I also add a dryer sheet to help keep down the dust. Also, your ammo will be soft and Mountain Morning fresh.
AND the dryer sheets get rid of that pesky static cling problem on your brass:uhoh:
jell-dog
 
For pistol cases I deprime every case with a Harvey Deprimer and put them in a Thumlers Tumbler model B, adding the Dawn dish soap and the Limishine spot remover and the water.Letting the machine run for an hour with the SS pins. Run everything through the media separator while rinsing with water. I take the cleaned cases and dump them onto a big towel to suck up the excess water. The semi dried cases are then put into a 6 tier food dehydrator and allowed to dry for 1 hour. The cases are super clean inside and out. So when I go to reload the cases, there is no need to dirty up my press and area with fired primers and the dirty residue that goes with it.

bcbsr
 
Dry to date. Current practice: Initial cleaning with crushed walnut in tumbler #1, decap and size, polish with corncob in tumbler #2. Has worked well thus far. Thinking about a wet tumbler, though.

OldmanFCSA, tell us more about this:
Sorry - wasn't Subscribed to see your request.

I found a "squirrel cage fan" for lack of proper descriptive name that is directly driven by a 1/2HP 3600RPM electric motor. I rigged it up under a table with a 5 gallon bucket attached to table over it (handle removed). I cut a 4" diameter hole in bottom of bucket to match output of fanmotor. Placing a similar plastic bucket inside the first bucket creats about a 3" high manifold to distribute the airflow thru the holes I drilled in second bucket using one of my collanders for a template. I can place 3000 9mm cases in bucket and dry for an hour, or lesser amounts to be done quicker. Small amounts need a screen over top of bucket AND a brick on top to keep bucket in dryer setup. My collanders fit in top of first bucket and I keep a towel and brick available to fill some of the space when drying small amounts of 50BMG brass - dries 40+ pieces in 5 minutes.
This has been the best method I have tried yet, and I have tried quite a few. (some were complete failures).
 
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