browning a blue gun questions

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birdshot8's

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I am wanting to remove the blue from a rifle and then use a browning process for the refinishing. I am curious about the protection properties of browning solutions. Tips from personnel experiences and recommendations for any product.
 
I've used both hot and cold solution products: Birchwood Casey's Plum Brown and Laurel Mountain Forge's Barrel Brown and Degreaser. With regard to protection properties of the results I find no difference after several years: both have done an excellent job as long as I do my part after cleaning.

Both methods have their good and bad points, so which to use is really just a matter of personal choice, depending on your facilities and tools. Advice: follow the instructions faithfully and don't get discouraged with interim results. Both methods look terrible after the first coat; just keep applying additional coats until you get what you want.
 
Thanks, mykeal, you have helped answer several of my questions over the years. I value your experience and willingness to assist. As an aside, I saw on another forum where you have or had a Kentuckian. (2009 post.) The gun I am wanting to refinish is a 1974 Euroarms percussion Kentuckian in .36. I recently acquired as a winter project. The rifle is cleaning up nicely, I am excited about my first .36 rifle.
 
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I like the Laurel Mtn stuff myself. Follow the instructions, ample patience, and it'll come out well.

I've also left stainless steel barrels wrapped in a cloth dampened with LMF Browning solution for a couple days, and then come back and carded them... looks great.
 
desidog's 'towel' method is an alternative to the Laurel Mountain instructions and it does work well. It's a bit less labor intensive but takes longer.

The key to a good finish with the Plum Brown hot solution is to be sure to clean and degrease the barrel well. Very important - if you don't get it fully degreased (ie, de-oiled) it's almost impossible to correct later.

The key to the Laurel Mountain cold solution is to get and maintain, throughout the rusting period, a good high humidity environment.

And advice for both methods: take your time and be patient. Being in a hurry will almost guarantee sloppy results. The hot solution will take time to apply and you need to be sure the surface stays hot while applying, so set aside a good couple of hours; on the other hand you can start the next coat almost immediately after the first. The cold solution can be applied quickly, but the rusting period (3 hours) in high humidity should be strictly observed, so there's a long time between coats.

To apply Plum Brown I hang the parts on a wire and use a propane torch in one hand and the applicator in the other. Plan this out and practice using the applicator so the parts are stable and don't swing around. I spend a long time slowly heating the parts until a drop of water sizzles on the surface, and use the torch while applying to keep it uniformly hot. I've not found it necessary to plug the barrel to avoid rusting it but some folks recommend doing that - be careful not to let any of the browning solution into the barrel and you should be ok. If the Plum Brown result is streaky or uneven, no problem - just heat it up again and apply more. It blends well, unless, of course, the reason for the uneven surface is that you didn't take time to thoroughly clean/degrease, in which case you are SOL. You can get a good result in as little as 3 applications, but I'd advise planning to do 5 or so, just in case. The more you do, the darker it gets.

For the Laurel Mountain, I set up jigs to hold the parts on a sawhorse in the basement bathroom; it has a shower, so all I need to do to get a high humidity environment is to run the hot water in the shower a while and close the door, and if the steam dies down I just turn it back on again. Some folks build a humidity box out of plastic sewer pipe. You do want to plug the muzzle and touch hole/nipple hole to keep the interior of the barrel from taking up any rusting vapors from the solution. The first coat or two will look awful (uneven, splotchy, etc), but that will go away pretty quickly with additional coats. It takes at least 3, in my opinion, and I usually do 6-7 coats.
 
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Bluing and browning are both controlled rusting processes. Properly done, there should be no difference in protective qualities. The best results come about from paying attention to the details and doing a good job of the prep work. A coat of wax when totally finished helps also. Do not use a wax that has a cleaner in it. That will remove some of the browning (or bluing). I like Butchers Bowling Alley wax or Renaissance Wax.
 
It's not the coating themselves that give the protection. As Strawhat said above browning and blueing are controlled rusting. What provides the protection is the roughness or porosity of the resulting layer of "smooth rust" which holds the oil or waxes we use to protect against further harmful rusting.
 
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