Browning Auto 5

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hdwhit

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About thirty years ago, my father-in-law got in a financial bind and my wife and I were going to help him out, but his pride got in the way and instead he offered to sell me his Browning Auto 5 shotgun in exchange for the cash needed. I agreed even though we were was "paying" ten times what the gun could have been bought for new. I knew my father-in-law religiously cleaned his guns after every excursion to the woods, so I just took it home, oiled the exterior and put it in the back of my gun cabinet.

This week, I got it out, looked up on Youtube how to field strip it, took it apart and gave it a thorough cleaning. I got a surprise when the magazine spring retainer was missing, so the spring came out like a novelty toy. Other than a tiny speck of rust in back of the trigger guard where my father-in-law's right hand must have spent many hours, the gun was in very good condition. The bluing was almost entirely worn off the receiver and was missing from many other spots along the 26" barrel where you would expect it to have worn. The receiver and stocks appear to be engraved, but this could just have been rolled on at the factory. It is stamped "Light-Twelve" on the left-hand side of the receiver. My father-in-law, now 90, no longer hunts, had forgotten about selling the gun to me and does not want it back (good thing, too, because we now live in different states and would have to go through an FFL).

The barrel is stamped for 12 gauge 2&3/4 inch only.

My questions are:
  • I have never owned a long-recoil gun before. Is there anything I need to know about it?
  • Any cautions characteristic to the Auto 5?
Thanks.
 
The Auto is a very easy gun to detail strip should the need arise.
Just custom grind your screwdriver tips to fit properly and it is a 15 minute job.

Also keep the for-end cap snug in addition to Mn's mention of proper set-up for the load.

I recently picked up a 1967 'rescue' 12 gauge Auto 5 magnum with a 32" barrel for 100 OTD from a dealer specializing in estate sales.
It had been abandoned to the barn in a padded case for many years (after the owner/shooter passed on?)
where it developed scattered pitting from the case deteriorating around it.
I think the pitting and the stock having been shortened made him want to unload it.
Nothing so deep as to affect function, so I simply put a standard 2 3/4 friction ring set-up in it for my
1 oz./1150 fps. 16 yd. load after adding 3/4" of spacer to the butt.
That load functions the gun when I have applied a thin coat of oil to the magazine tube and drops the empties about 3 feet from the gun.

You are in for a real treat shooting an A-5.

JT
 
Mn Fats wrote:
Make sure you have your friction ring properly set depending on your load.

Is that covered in the manual? I downloaded an Auto 5 manual from the Browning web site but have not yet had a chance to read it. I will definitely read it - and read it a second time - before I ever think about shooting the gun.
 
JT-AR-MG42 wrote:
Also keep the for-end cap snug in addition to Mn's mention of proper set-up for the load.

The retainer for the magazine spring may have been missing, but the detent for holding the end cap in place is in good shape. My father-in-law used his guns, but did not abuse them. I ordered another spring retainer from Numrich and expect it here soon.
 
Is that covered in the manual? I downloaded an Auto 5 manual from the Browning web site but have not yet had a chance to read it. I will definitely read it - and read it a second time - before I ever think about shooting the gun.
I would imagine it is but I can't say for sure. I have 3 light twelves, 2 of which were inherited and none of which came with the owners manual. If its not covered there, you can google "browning A-5 friction ring" and I'm certain some good info will come up.
You are in for a real treat shooting an A-5.
Agreed. My first 50 out of 50 was done with an A-5 when I was a teen. Good memories, great gun.
 
Do not shoot steel shot through your older A-5 . The barrel steel was rather soft, and with a fixed choke the barrel would expand at the choke with steel shot.
 
I like the fact that you shoot them in the "head up" position. I had neck surgery and cannot cheek a shotgun. Was able to continue quail hunting using an A5. They "take a lickin' and keep on ticking". Probably a very unappreciated gun now but one of the finest semi autos you will ever see.
 
I have an Auto 5, pretty much most everything has been said. Don't torque the upper handguard down too tight or you might crack it when firing. The Auto 5 is an amazing shotgun, the first semi auto on the market, a real John Browning design.
 
mnrivrat wrote:
Do not shoot steel shot through your older A-5 . The barrel steel was rather soft, and with a fixed choke the barrel would expand at the choke with steel shot.

Thank you for the warning. I've never shot anything but lead shot, but in retirement I will be living in Arkansas where there are areas that require steel shot and I might have ruined the gun.
 
Mn Fats wrote:
Make sure you have your friction ring properly set depending on your load.

I noticed when I had it apart that there was a sticker inside the front hand guard. The writing on it had faded too much to be legible, but the picture was still clear enough that it was obviously talking about the spring assembly wrapped around the magazine tube. Hopefully that is reprinted in the manual.

Thanks again.
 
I like the fact that you shoot them in the "head up" position. I had neck surgery and cannot cheek a shotgun. Was able to continue quail hunting using an A5. They "take a lickin' and keep on ticking". Probably a very unappreciated gun now but one of the finest semi autos you will ever see.

Same here. I come from a "Browning family" of quail hunters. My first A5 was a Sweet Sixteen, and as far as I'm concerned there will never be a finer shotgun for fowl hunting. I have my A5 collection now: Light Twelve, Sweet Sixteen, and the Light Twenty. All Belgium made, all round humps.
 
Today's steel shot will not hurt a thing UNLESS you try to push too big a pellets through too tight a choke. The early steel loads did not have nearly as good a shotcups and scratches in the barrels were common. Note, those scratches didn't hurt a thing shooting wise. A lot of gun manufacturers went overboard with cautions about steel shot.
You have a gun that could be quite useful for shooting ducks, IF you want to use it. With loads like Kent tungsten matrix you could shoot through any choke and they work like lead, too.
 
Steel shot should not damage the barrel if it has Mod choke or less and cartridges of appropriate length are used. The next cheapest to steel non tox is Kent Bismuth when bought on sale at Cabela's. Ten pack of 16ga 6s cost me $12.97.
 
Today's steel shot will not hurt a thing UNLESS you try to push too big a pellets through too tight a choke. The early steel loads did not have nearly as good a shotcups and scratches in the barrels were common. Note, those scratches didn't hurt a thing shooting wise. A lot of gun manufacturers went overboard with cautions about steel shot.
You have a gun that could be quite useful for shooting ducks, IF you want to use it. With loads like Kent tungsten matrix you could shoot through any choke and they work like lead, too.

What size steel could I use in a Japanese A5 Magnum with the original fixed full choke opened to Modified? I normally shoot BB, would #2 or #3 work without causing harm?
 
I solved all those questions by getting an extra bbl with Invector chokes. Sometimes you can locate a used bbl very reasonably. In fact all my A5s have extra bbls now.
 
I have an Auto 5, pretty much most everything has been said. Don't torque the upper handguard down too tight or you might crack it when firing. The Auto 5 is an amazing shotgun, the first semi auto on the market, a real John Browning design.
Some of the guns have instructions on how to turn the friction ring inside the forearm. Many of the A 5's that come to me for consignment sales have cracked forearms. The trick is to tighten the magazine cap snug and then back it off a click or two.
 
Adjust the friction rings as shown on Browning's website and lubricate the mag tube properly. This means put a couple of drops of gun oil (not your super slick teflon / moly / graphite oil) on a patch and lightly wipe down the exterior of the tube. This will provide the right amount of friction while keeping the bare steel from rusting.
 
One thing, at least to me, the long recoil impulse of the A5 is very different in feel than a pump or gas operated shotgun. Takes a little getting used to. Don't fire mine much as it has the older suicide safety.
 
I have a Light 12.

It was my first major purchase as a young man. Saved up my lawn mowing and bus boy money to buy it. (1979). I want to say it was over $500 back then. Not cheap

Spent it's whole life duck hunting the swamps and marshes of South Louisiana. Not a fleck of rust anywhere on that gun.

It got retired when steel shot was mandated. I pull it out now for the occasional sporting clay shoots or rare invites to dove hunt.

Eventually, my son will get it
 
My father gave me his A-5 when I was 12. Still have it. My little manual has instructions on changing the friction rings. It's more a booklet than a manual.
Mine dates back to 1965ish.
 
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