Today it failed to eject a spent shell (reload of questionable origin) and is now locked up. I can't pull the bolt back no matter what. It appears the bolt is cammed up into the top of the receiver, while the bolt carrier is still straight (of course). I've tried forcing the spent shell out with a cleaning rod. I've tried pulling the barrel off, but it won't budge either. I've removed the trigger groups and the rat-tail is squarely seated on the recoil spring plunger like it should be. I am confused and frustrated. Any ideas?
Browning Gold is locked up tight! help?
- Thread starter Midnight
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Got it. Bolt was indeed cammed up into the top of the receiver. I took the trigger group off and found a good, solid portion of the carrier. I used a hammer to drive the carrier back a little, exposing the front of the bolt. I then drove the front of the bolt towards the top of the receiver, releasing it. I believe the ammo was the culprit. I was using some reloads given to me by a fellow who was moving. I think the hull had been used one too many times and it expanded more than normal in the chamber. The extractor almost tore through the head of the hull trying to extract it. I think this caused the bolt to cam up into the top of the receiver as it tried to move backwards while the hull wasn't extracted. Thoughts?
sm
member
Hull was NOT resized.
I ALWAYS resized my hulls, I mean ALL the way down to case head.
The following is for the new guys, be it SG's or Reloaders. Dave and the smarter than I can correct me...If so listen to them-not me.
-I have reloaded AA hulls a dozen times , and more always resized all the way down. The more "scruffy" of the bunch ,I either hunted with, or used on a range where picking up hulls not allowed. Some I have used candle wax and/or electrical tape.( to keep shot in, crimp may have been suspect
) Scruffy, but always fed, extracted. WHY?
-Besides the resize I kept chambers and extractors clean. Plastic hulls will leave a red/rust plastic build-up. IN itself this will cause a sticky chamber, even with brand new factory shell. Add heat (from shooting or temp wise) moisture (rain, condensation), grit, nelphs from dirty hulls, shell pouch, dropped shells...etc. And I will guarantee it's not IF but When that gun will not extract.
-I may be chastised for not cleaning a gun, regardless if it's a SG, rifle or handgun, one thing that IS ALWAYS clean and dry in any of my guns is the chamber and extractor.
-This is the #1 and 2 reasons for SG extraction problems-dirty chamber and not resized ammo. [my handgun and rifle ammo are also properly sized and chambers kept clean].
-I only use ammo I KNOW, be it new or re-loads. I have a couple of close and I mean serious close friends that we know what we load. I may load 12's and 20's and he/they do 28 and .410. Competition--we roll our own. Its business.
-I found a use for aluminum rods. I take one and use a nylon bore brush, wisp 0000 steel wool or the most fine grit of Scotchbrite, chuck that short section of rod into a cordless drill, it takes the plastic out. This is when bbl removed. Tube shooters use a full length rod and run it the entire length before changing tubes.
- If Bbl is still on gun, or like a JC Higgens and can't remove bbl, do the same deal but use a vise and bend Al rod so chamber can be reached from breech, just twist it a bit in the chamber. (Not a bad tool for 3 gunners/any competition shooter to have in in range bag -especially blowing sand btw)
-HSMITH is right Kick start works, better with boots for more oomph,on semi's. Be sure mag is empty, I always removed trigger group, in case I missed. oops.
- Shuckers, ain't pretty but again unload mag and drop TG. Get two people to death grip that forearm, I then take a few steps back and full bore whack the butt, something usually gives, hopefully the hull and not one of my friends. Worst case scenerio put it in a vise well padded and well secured, a person or two to help is not a bad idea. I actually broke a extractor on 870, hull was stuck on a new guys gun during a duck hunt, by the time he yelled for help that sucker was rusted in.
-Smart thing to do is to check any chambers while reloading before you head to range. If at the range and shooting another gun with your shells, or someone wants to shoot your gun with their shells--use the shell for that gun. (yours for your gun, his shells for his gun). IF you want to make sure shells interchange, 4 rules always, finger off trigger, downrange, insert the shell "gently" to see if any resistance is present, do not close chamber or close action. Good Idea to run your finger into chamber form time to time to see how that chamber is doing.
-O/U and SxS, always check shells before closing, ain't pretty to force one of them open, and can get real expensive on a fine double because one didn't check first.
-Chambers vary, even among similar guns. I know the chambers in my Citori were tighter than my pumps or semi's. I could tell which gun had fired a hull by the pressure used to resize.
Lot of folks fiddlin' with muzzle end, fiddlin with chokes, front beads, changing chokes and such. I was watching the clays/birds, new my loads, would fit the chamber and extract. I had patterend and knew the load and choke selected was right. Preferred to concentrate on the business at hand.
I wasn't to worried about the muzzle end, and fiddlin' with chokes,even cared less about beads... if you can't fed and extract, what's the use?
Have that gun checked out for safety and peace of mind.
Oh you can buy a fancy tool, but plenty of Al rods around for cheap, lying around or broken needing a job
HTH
I ALWAYS resized my hulls, I mean ALL the way down to case head.
The following is for the new guys, be it SG's or Reloaders. Dave and the smarter than I can correct me...If so listen to them-not me.
-I have reloaded AA hulls a dozen times , and more always resized all the way down. The more "scruffy" of the bunch ,I either hunted with, or used on a range where picking up hulls not allowed. Some I have used candle wax and/or electrical tape.( to keep shot in, crimp may have been suspect
) Scruffy, but always fed, extracted. WHY?-Besides the resize I kept chambers and extractors clean. Plastic hulls will leave a red/rust plastic build-up. IN itself this will cause a sticky chamber, even with brand new factory shell. Add heat (from shooting or temp wise) moisture (rain, condensation), grit, nelphs from dirty hulls, shell pouch, dropped shells...etc. And I will guarantee it's not IF but When that gun will not extract.
-I may be chastised for not cleaning a gun, regardless if it's a SG, rifle or handgun, one thing that IS ALWAYS clean and dry in any of my guns is the chamber and extractor.
-This is the #1 and 2 reasons for SG extraction problems-dirty chamber and not resized ammo. [my handgun and rifle ammo are also properly sized and chambers kept clean].
-I only use ammo I KNOW, be it new or re-loads. I have a couple of close and I mean serious close friends that we know what we load. I may load 12's and 20's and he/they do 28 and .410. Competition--we roll our own. Its business.
-I found a use for aluminum rods. I take one and use a nylon bore brush, wisp 0000 steel wool or the most fine grit of Scotchbrite, chuck that short section of rod into a cordless drill, it takes the plastic out. This is when bbl removed. Tube shooters use a full length rod and run it the entire length before changing tubes.
- If Bbl is still on gun, or like a JC Higgens and can't remove bbl, do the same deal but use a vise and bend Al rod so chamber can be reached from breech, just twist it a bit in the chamber. (Not a bad tool for 3 gunners/any competition shooter to have in in range bag -especially blowing sand btw)
-HSMITH is right Kick start works, better with boots for more oomph,on semi's. Be sure mag is empty, I always removed trigger group, in case I missed. oops.
- Shuckers, ain't pretty but again unload mag and drop TG. Get two people to death grip that forearm, I then take a few steps back and full bore whack the butt, something usually gives, hopefully the hull and not one of my friends.
Worst case scenerio put it in a vise well padded and well secured, a person or two to help is not a bad idea. I actually broke a extractor on 870, hull was stuck on a new guys gun during a duck hunt, by the time he yelled for help that sucker was rusted in.-Smart thing to do is to check any chambers while reloading before you head to range. If at the range and shooting another gun with your shells, or someone wants to shoot your gun with their shells--use the shell for that gun. (yours for your gun, his shells for his gun). IF you want to make sure shells interchange, 4 rules always, finger off trigger, downrange, insert the shell "gently" to see if any resistance is present, do not close chamber or close action. Good Idea to run your finger into chamber form time to time to see how that chamber is doing.
-O/U and SxS, always check shells before closing, ain't pretty to force one of them open, and can get real expensive on a fine double because one didn't check first.
-Chambers vary, even among similar guns. I know the chambers in my Citori were tighter than my pumps or semi's. I could tell which gun had fired a hull by the pressure used to resize.
Lot of folks fiddlin' with muzzle end, fiddlin with chokes, front beads, changing chokes and such. I was watching the clays/birds, new my loads, would fit the chamber and extract. I had patterend and knew the load and choke selected was right. Preferred to concentrate on the business at hand.
I wasn't to worried about the muzzle end, and fiddlin' with chokes,even cared less about beads... if you can't fed and extract, what's the use?
Have that gun checked out for safety and peace of mind.
Oh you can buy a fancy tool, but plenty of Al rods around for cheap, lying around or broken needing a job
HTH
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