I just purchased a new to me Hi Power it is a Browning. Portugal assembled. The gun is bright blue and the date of manufacture is 1994 the frame appears to be forged I have not removed the grip panels to check for casting marks. However the magazine well base is smooth. It has some scratches were the previous owner disassembled the gun. It also has several small scratches and some general carry wear. However I picked it up affordably and got it to carry and to shoot. It has the magazine disconnect removed and a very nice trigger. I would like to hear from you guys any basics I should look out for and if there are any parts I should keep on hand. Also the caliber is 9mm. Thank you all for your input.
Browning High Power
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Outlaw Man
Member
Really nothing special to look out for. If I was going to recommend a single spare part to keep on hand, it would be an extractor, as I've seen those wear out more than any other part. Aside from that, I'd treat it much like a 1911 - keep a full spring set, etc.
With minimal maintenance, you'll probably wear out long before it does.
Oh, and welcome to the club. This may not be your last one.
With minimal maintenance, you'll probably wear out long before it does.
Oh, and welcome to the club. This may not be your last one.
Magazine disconnect
The magazine disconnect has been removed by the previous owner the trigger pull is very nice. I shall treat it like my 1911s as those are my most familiar arm. I really like the feel of the Hi Power seems to be very accurate I shot it as soon as I got home with it today. So this would be a Mark III? Thanks again
The magazine disconnect has been removed by the previous owner the trigger pull is very nice. I shall treat it like my 1911s as those are my most familiar arm. I really like the feel of the Hi Power seems to be very accurate I shot it as soon as I got home with it today. So this would be a Mark III? Thanks again
browningguy
Member
Not quite true, I had a sear wear out on one of mine. Of course it is a 3rd Chinese contract Inglis made in the 40's and looking like a Chinese artillery man carried it through the mud for most of the 70 years it's been around.
Seriously, with the exception of my Inglis I've never had a part fail on any of the other 4 (one in 9mm and three in .40)
wolff for the springs
spegel grips are IMO the best grips you can buy for the hi power. if your buy though the man him self you pay a lot less but the wait is gonna take around 6 months( at least mine did, well worth the wait tho)
BTW the hi power is the finest 9mm ever made. IMO its the Rolls Royce of pistols.
spegel grips are IMO the best grips you can buy for the hi power. if your buy though the man him self you pay a lot less but the wait is gonna take around 6 months( at least mine did, well worth the wait tho)
BTW the hi power is the finest 9mm ever made. IMO its the Rolls Royce of pistols.
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danez71
Member
Yes. That's a Mk III
I have a 94 also. Mine has the fixed rear sight and is the black epoxy coat or what ever it is.
Mine still has the mag disconnect.
Its my favorite gun.
(ps - how many time are you going to say the mag disconnect has been removed?
)sub-moa
Member
A '94 MkIII could be either forged or cast. While cast frame 9mmPs were in production in '93, FN used up what they had on hand sooo...during the transition period you'll find both frames. Apparently you're aware to look for the cast mark on smooth butt MkIIIs to determine forged/cast, but you don't have to remove the grips to do so though...just look in the magwell, right side top. You can also compare the thickness of the right and left front edges of the frontstrap at the butt. Cast frames are about twice as thick there...
http://www.hipowersandhandguns.com/does_my_hi_power_have_a_forged_or cast frame.htm
even if its forged as along as you don't feed it thousands of +p 9mm you will be just fine.
even if its forged as along as you don't feed it thousands of +p 9mm you will be just fine.
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Mine is bright blue with after market three dot fixed sights. I will check to see if cast or forged by marks in magwell. I plan on shooting standard loads through the gun. I try not to beat any of mine up. I have been a 1911 fan since I was a child. As my father collected colt pistols I have a 38 super 70 series that is my favorite but I have wanted a hi power for quite a long time. So, far I really like the design. Good capacity excellent ergonomics and classic lines. It will be my edc if I find it reliable. I have only put one box through so far and it was amazing.
sub-moa
Member
Casting Mark:
Forged left/Cast right...note relative thickness @ front left/right corners of butt:
Forged left/Cast right...note relative thickness @ front left/right corners of butt:
Nice...I also have an early forged frame MkIII 9mm polished blue. Mine is a 1990.
The only problem I've had so far is on a MkIII .40 the left side ambi safety lever started becoming loose on the shaft but I was able to fix it myself.
As many times as people keep asking him if it still has it after he said in the first post it had been removed (read the first few posts).
The only problem I've had so far is on a MkIII .40 the left side ambi safety lever started becoming loose on the shaft but I was able to fix it myself.
As many times as people keep asking him if it still has it after he said in the first post it had been removed (read the first few posts).
Cast frames have the lines on the bottom of the magwell like the right hand gun on the picture above. That's the easiest way to tell. The cast frames are stronger than the forged frames. That's why FN went to the cast frame when they started making the .40 versions.
That said, I am still a fan of the forged frame. I would take either one and be happy to have it!
That said, I am still a fan of the forged frame. I would take either one and be happy to have it!
danez71
Member
I know... it was a joke. He said it in his 1st post and then at least 1 more time because people were posting things as if he didn't already say it.
I thought my wink smilie would be a clue about my post being a joke.
Bartholomew Roberts
Member
One thing to check on Hi-Powers (especially older/surplus ones but still worth checking though unlikely) is the sear/safety fit. To do this, first make sure the pistol is unloaded and point the pistol in a safe direction.
Cock the hammer and push the safety up into the "on" position. Pointing the pistol in a safe direction, pull the trigger. After this, disengage the safety. Listening carefully and watching the sear, attempt to cock the hammer again. If you hear a click or see movement, the safety is not fully engaging the sear and the safety needs to be built up to where it engages fully by a qualified gunsmith. In an extreme case of bad fit, some earlier Hi-Powers can fire when the safety is disengaged.
The 1994 likely has a firing pin safety (look for a paddle on the sear lever at the back of the slide) which will prevent firing unless the trigger is pulled or the trigger lever gets stuck in the up position. So even if you did have horrendously bad sear/safety engagement, you should still be OK as long as you keep your mitts off the trigger.
On replacement parts, you can search this forum for a report I did on my 1995 Hi-Power over 13 years and 30k rounds. As far as common maintenance parts go, I recommend the 18.5lb recoil spring from Wolff Springs (factory is 17lb). It will come with a firing pin spring also which you can change out when you change the recoil spring (every 5-6k rounds). I've also had to replace one extractor spring - a roll pin punch is very handy for that as it is under a lot of tension.
Cock the hammer and push the safety up into the "on" position. Pointing the pistol in a safe direction, pull the trigger. After this, disengage the safety. Listening carefully and watching the sear, attempt to cock the hammer again. If you hear a click or see movement, the safety is not fully engaging the sear and the safety needs to be built up to where it engages fully by a qualified gunsmith. In an extreme case of bad fit, some earlier Hi-Powers can fire when the safety is disengaged.
The 1994 likely has a firing pin safety (look for a paddle on the sear lever at the back of the slide) which will prevent firing unless the trigger is pulled or the trigger lever gets stuck in the up position. So even if you did have horrendously bad sear/safety engagement, you should still be OK as long as you keep your mitts off the trigger.
On replacement parts, you can search this forum for a report I did on my 1995 Hi-Power over 13 years and 30k rounds. As far as common maintenance parts go, I recommend the 18.5lb recoil spring from Wolff Springs (factory is 17lb). It will come with a firing pin spring also which you can change out when you change the recoil spring (every 5-6k rounds). I've also had to replace one extractor spring - a roll pin punch is very handy for that as it is under a lot of tension.
bannockburn
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My Mk.II Hi-Power worked so well, especially the trigger, right out of the box that I didn't even bother to take out the mag disconnector. The only thing I have replaced is the factory grips with a set of Pachmayrs.
The only part you should keep on hand...a tube of super glue to keep your billfold shut. If not, you may find that your money will spontaneously jump our of your pocket for Hi Powers and accessories. Hi Powers are an addiction, congratulations on your new condition. Mine is the most accurate handgun I own and a pleasure to shoot and carry. Might want to keep lots of targets on hand too. If you are like me, will like producing lots of ragged holes.
Mine is the most accurate handgun I own and a pleasure to shoot and carry. Might want to keep lots of targets on hand too. If you are like me, will like producing lots of ragged holes.sub-moa
Member
The striations are NOT definitive...
There are enough cast frame BHPs out there WITHOUT the striations that OP already knew to check for the internal cast mark in order to determine if his was forged or cast. The frontstrap contour/thickness difference between the forged and cast was offered as a quicker method...not involving removing the grip panels...
cactus02
Member
on my 1965 BHP the only part problem was a firing pin stop split in two. Thousands of rounds fired and dry fired 10s of thousands times.
Lucky Derby
Member
This
I have also encountered a forged frame HP, with the striations added by a gunsmith for a customer who saw them on a cast frame and liked them.
il.bill
Member
Wolff Gunsprings would be an excellent choice for just about any firearm.
When it comes to replacement Hi Power parts it can really pay to check out pricing and availability direct from Browning http://www.browning.com/customerservice/partsandservice/gunpartsprices/index.asp?bg=x. I was surprised by how reasonably priced things like an extractor, a firing pin, or individual springs are. You can download their .PDF catalog and go through it at your leisure.
As several posts have stated: be careful, this might only be your 'first' Hi Power.
Rock185
Member
I've owned quite a few Hi Powers since the '60s, but only have a few now. The only part I can ever recall breaking, was total of one firing pin stop. I do keep other extra parts on hand, but have not been able to use them due to any other breakage issues. I use the factory or Wolff 18.5# springs. The grips that fit me best are the Spegels, the K.N. Nills and Hogues. All thin, nice wood and checkered. I do have a set of the Really thin Navidrex Micarta grips on the GP Comp.I fully understand that the plas, er, polymer pistols are the cool and tacticool pistols to have now days, especially with the younger generation, to include my former co-workers in LE. Of the many Hi Power variations I've owned, these are the only UNtacticool beater Hi Powers I have left...
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