solbane
Member
Why does one, Not pull brushes and patches, back through the barrel, when cleaning?
brushes and patches
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The_Next_Generation
Member
Because you could damage the crown of the barrel when you pull the brush/patch/jag/rod past it. Damage to this part of the barrel can greatly effect accuracy.
AZAndy
Member
I always wondered about that rule too. Did cleaning kits used to be made out of diamond-encrusted steel? I don't see how a standard brass rod is going to do much harm.
Coyote3855
Member
Another reason is that by pulling brush or patches back through the barrel, you may drag and deposit residues in the action of the firearm. Not a big deal IMHO. If you attempt to pull the brush/patches back without clearing the muzzle, there is a potential to jam the brush in barrel.
solbane
Member
Thank you all, so far.
I've always appreciated multiple points of view.
I've always appreciated multiple points of view.
243winxb
Member
I dont let the patch clear the end of the muzzle. Then i pull it back.
A brush , when pushed out the end, past the muzzle, should be attached to a coated cleaning rod. Mine then gets pulled back to where it started when cleaning 223 and 243.
Pulling a brush back will wear the crown. Only worry if a Qtip gets caught on the crown when checking for a burr.
A brush , when pushed out the end, past the muzzle, should be attached to a coated cleaning rod. Mine then gets pulled back to where it started when cleaning 223 and 243.
Pulling a brush back will wear the crown. Only worry if a Qtip gets caught on the crown when checking for a burr.
Because they think it will damage the crown at the muzzle.
They would have a heart attack watching rim fire and center fire match rifle competitors ranked at the top of their discipline do that a few times a day with bronze brushes. I never saw any accuracy degradation doing that; dry or wet with bore cleaner.
Never tried to pull a patch back into the muzzle, but back and forth with patches still in the bore.
I pushed and pulled bronze brushes in and out both ends of Garand barrels with bare steel rods. That rubbed away the lands and grooves at the muzzle enough that no copper wash was on them for over half an inch back from the crown; uneven and more on one side than the other. Muzzle erosion gauges showed over .001" wear. No accuracy degradation over 3500 rounds of very accurate barrel life across 5 of them.
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Always thanks for your observations Bart B. as someone who has been there and done that.
This is my take on it.
One reason is that you can get a patch/jag combo stuck in the barrel if you try to pull it back through especially if it is a dry patch combined with a relatively rough bore.. If you are using jointed rods, even more issues with potential jams in the barrel. I've tried coated rods, brass rods, etc. Now, I mainly use a stainless steel one piece rod that is long enough to clean a GEW98 or Krag rifle barrel. One reason is that it is stiffer than other rods, the second is that you can make sure that crud doesn't embed into the rod (steel wool and wipe) which can happen with coated or brass rods. I do usually try to clean from the chamber using a bore guide.
Then again, many match or new gun type shooters would probably be aghast at old milsurp barrels fired previously with corrosive ammo and micropitting in the bore. Curiously enough, many tend to shoot pretty good groups until they are fouled which usually occurs far earlier than a gleaming used bore. Thus, to get rid of this fouling requires a pretty stiff rod in these barrels.
This is my take on it.
One reason is that you can get a patch/jag combo stuck in the barrel if you try to pull it back through especially if it is a dry patch combined with a relatively rough bore.. If you are using jointed rods, even more issues with potential jams in the barrel. I've tried coated rods, brass rods, etc. Now, I mainly use a stainless steel one piece rod that is long enough to clean a GEW98 or Krag rifle barrel. One reason is that it is stiffer than other rods, the second is that you can make sure that crud doesn't embed into the rod (steel wool and wipe) which can happen with coated or brass rods. I do usually try to clean from the chamber using a bore guide.
Then again, many match or new gun type shooters would probably be aghast at old milsurp barrels fired previously with corrosive ammo and micropitting in the bore. Curiously enough, many tend to shoot pretty good groups until they are fouled which usually occurs far earlier than a gleaming used bore. Thus, to get rid of this fouling requires a pretty stiff rod in these barrels.
Coated rods have been popular with competitors for decades. Especially for barrels 26 caliber and smaller They're soft enough to let hard particulates embed in their coating so barrel steel isn't damaged. Dewey and Parker-Hale are the best.
solbane
Member
I've never really looked at coated, all my rifles have had more than a few miles on 'em.
Though the reason I'm asking is because I just recently took my new Henry H0001M out of the box.
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