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OP
KBintheSLC
Member
38special... thanks for the info. For some reason I thought they were the rings/gaps that are molded into the bullet. I guess those are just there to give the crimp some place to bite.?
Buffalo Bore: Is it worth the $$$?
- Thread starter KBintheSLC
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38special... thanks for the info. For some reason I thought they were the rings/gaps that are molded into the bullet. I guess those are just there to give the crimp some place to bite.?
OP
OP
KBintheSLC
Member
email sent to BB... I will post their response.
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OregonJohnny
Member
The only BB ammo I've bought was a box of 300-grain .44 Magnum jacketed lead flat-nose. I shot a cylinder-full out of my Redhawk 4". Though I was shooting at paper and not a charging bear, I certainly "felt" the extra price. In the web of my right hand. Not comfortable, but comforting if I needed that much horsepower from a handgun. All rounds in the box of 20 looked very well made, seated, etc. No QC issues. I'd buy from them again, but only in the nasty +P "hunting" loads such as their .44 Magnum and .45 Colt.
zxcvbob
Member
I think those are called the "driving bands"
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Starting from the top of the bullets down:
Meplate, or flat tip of the bullet
Ogive, or nose curve section.
Front driving band.
Crimp groove.
Middle driving band.
Grease groove.
Rear driving band.
Copper gas check.
The space between the gas check and rear driving band, as well as the grease groove, would normally be filled with bullet lube.
rc
Meplate, or flat tip of the bullet
Ogive, or nose curve section.
Front driving band.
Crimp groove.
Middle driving band.
Grease groove.
Rear driving band.
Copper gas check.
The space between the gas check and rear driving band, as well as the grease groove, would normally be filled with bullet lube.
rc
DammitBoy
Member
I've bought the Buffalo Bore 45 long colt plus P in the 325 grain round.
Should I be worried about any issues shooting these out of my Ruger Blackhawk or my 1873 Uberti carbine?
I bought them for my Winchester 94, but I'm curious about the others...
Should I be worried about any issues shooting these out of my Ruger Blackhawk or my 1873 Uberti carbine?
I bought them for my Winchester 94, but I'm curious about the others...
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
The Blackhawk is fine.
The Uberti 73 not so much.
It is a toggle-link locked action and not at all well suited for use with heavy or +P loads.
The later 92 / 94 Winchesters use a locking bolt design and are way stronger.
rc
The Uberti 73 not so much.
It is a toggle-link locked action and not at all well suited for use with heavy or +P loads.
The later 92 / 94 Winchesters use a locking bolt design and are way stronger.
rc
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jfh
Member.
About 20 mo. ago I test-fired the BB 20As(?)--i.e., the 38+P / 158 LSWC / 1000 fps variety--in both my 640 and my M&P340 over my chrono. It clocked over 1000 fps from both revolvers--and it was stout enough I wouldn't want to carry it in the M&P340 and have to do a reload. At about $1.25-plus per round, I didn't shoot it any more--kept it for carry.
With conventional 38 Special recipes, one can get a 158LSWC / LSWC-HP (Speer or Hornady) running at up to 860+ fps at 38 CIP pressures, or <=21,750 PSI. As noted earlier / elsewhere, the Rem38S12s run maybe 825 fps--although the last chrono I did of them ran about 800- fps.
The reloads run maybe .12-.13 each; the Rem 38S12s were about .58 ea. ($28.00 / 50)
Jim H.
With conventional 38 Special recipes, one can get a 158LSWC / LSWC-HP (Speer or Hornady) running at up to 860+ fps at 38 CIP pressures, or <=21,750 PSI. As noted earlier / elsewhere, the Rem38S12s run maybe 825 fps--although the last chrono I did of them ran about 800- fps.
The reloads run maybe .12-.13 each; the Rem 38S12s were about .58 ea. ($28.00 / 50)
Jim H.
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OP
OP
KBintheSLC
Member
JFH,
I do prefer their non+P 38 spl. for much the same reason you mentioned. The standard pressure 158g in the OP is rated at about 850fps which is plenty for a snub Airweight 38.
RC MODEL,
Thanks for the explanation regarding the various aspects of bullet architecture. Very helpful.
I do prefer their non+P 38 spl. for much the same reason you mentioned. The standard pressure 158g in the OP is rated at about 850fps which is plenty for a snub Airweight 38.
RC MODEL,
Thanks for the explanation regarding the various aspects of bullet architecture. Very helpful.
OP
OP
KBintheSLC
Member
This just in from BB...
They were polite and professional, and offered to take care of me for my troubles. I guess that in the end, BB is a good company with some quality "specialty" ammo. I assume that they are really going to shine in the larger magnum rounds. I'm still not sure whether it's worth $1.25 per round for 38 spl. but their service was prompt and of good quality.
DammitBoy
Member
Thanks RC - good to know. I figured the blackhawk was okay and my real concern was the Uberti.
.38 Special
Member
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You simply cannot beat that, in my book.
Husker_Fan
Member
I have a slightly OT question.
When you guys reload, do you put as much crimp on your cases? My crimps are in the groove, but not nearly as severe. I'm just loading plinking/range ammo and want to extend case life by not over crimping. Is the BB type crip just more appropriate for higher pressure loads?
ETA:
I have read the books and my crimps look like what is on other peoples target/range ammo. I also understand how the crimp can affect pressure. I want to know if that is what the higher pressure crimps should look like when I ever get to making some.
When you guys reload, do you put as much crimp on your cases? My crimps are in the groove, but not nearly as severe. I'm just loading plinking/range ammo and want to extend case life by not over crimping. Is the BB type crip just more appropriate for higher pressure loads?
ETA:
I have read the books and my crimps look like what is on other peoples target/range ammo. I also understand how the crimp can affect pressure. I want to know if that is what the higher pressure crimps should look like when I ever get to making some.
MCgunner
Member
The price is why I've never bought any. I have handloads that put up BB numbers for me in heavy .357 magnum and .45 Colt loadings, so I really don't need to spend a bunch of money on BB.
I recently bought a few boxes of Buffalo Bore High Velocity .357 125 grain Jacketed Hollow Point.
Of the first box of 20, 6 would not fit in my GP-100. I brought out the calipers, and they were .002 - .004 over the .379" spec at the crimps.
Had to check each cartridge individually to make sure I'd actually be able to load them in the gun.
Never a problem with any other .38 or .357 factory ammo in that gun, cheap or expensive.
For $1.40 a round I expected better quality control.
Of the first box of 20, 6 would not fit in my GP-100. I brought out the calipers, and they were .002 - .004 over the .379" spec at the crimps.
Had to check each cartridge individually to make sure I'd actually be able to load them in the gun.
Never a problem with any other .38 or .357 factory ammo in that gun, cheap or expensive.
For $1.40 a round I expected better quality control.
jfh
Member.
Based on the posts here, it sounds like a QC problem has emerged for BB. The BB ammo I bought two years ago was flawless; maybe the crush of ammo buying has resulted in more out-of-spec ammo slipping through QC.
Jim H.
Jim H.
The_Shootist
Member
I suppose you could debate whether the extra "oomph" out of a BB .38 spl round is worth it - I tend to think it is, just because its a bonus. Shooting BB "standard" pressure .38's side by side with GA FBI load and the BB sure don't feel "standard" to me.
One thing I REALLY like about them is that out of all my snubs (642/SP101/M85) its VERY accurate ammo. Across all three the standard pressure .38's shoot to POA more accurately than any other brand - including Speer Short bbl .38's/Remington's version of the FBI Load/Golden Sabre, etc. Its the accuracy for me that wins it.
My round count is probably pushing around 300 in all of my snubs with the standard pressure load. Not a huge amount but I've NEVER had a problem with any of it - be it loading/speedloading, ejecting, firing whatever.
For me its worth it, simply because I shoot it well, and that added sting in my hand gives me the impression its punch is at least equal to other premium SD .38 spl loads.
One thing I REALLY like about them is that out of all my snubs (642/SP101/M85) its VERY accurate ammo. Across all three the standard pressure .38's shoot to POA more accurately than any other brand - including Speer Short bbl .38's/Remington's version of the FBI Load/Golden Sabre, etc. Its the accuracy for me that wins it.
My round count is probably pushing around 300 in all of my snubs with the standard pressure load. Not a huge amount but I've NEVER had a problem with any of it - be it loading/speedloading, ejecting, firing whatever.
For me its worth it, simply because I shoot it well, and that added sting in my hand gives me the impression its punch is at least equal to other premium SD .38 spl loads.
.38 Special
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I don't own any dies that are capable of that kind of crimp. At some point -- at least with standard dies; I expect one of the Lee fanatics is already typing away about the "Factory Crimp Die" -- the die will stop crimping and start crumpling the case. I wonder, in fact, if this is what happened to Sped2001. Increased case diameter immediately under the crimp fold is a reliable sign of overcrimping.
Full crimps are a good idea for heavy loads. Not only does the crimp help keep the bullets in place under heavy recoil, but a hard crimp helps ensure consistent ignition with the slow burning/hard-to-ignite powders common to heavy loads in the big bores. For anything less than full house .357 loads, I apply a moderate crimp and have never had any problems. My .38 wadcutter cases often go for more than 20 reloadings.
jfh
Member.
what .38special said
is good info. When I first started building cases to max 38-CIP pressure, I applied a heavy crimp using the Lee FCD. As I learned more, I backed that crimp up quite a bit.
Set up properly, a Lee 4-die set will make it easy to adjust the crimp. Post sizing, if it is done, is another issue entirely.
Jim H.
is good info. When I first started building cases to max 38-CIP pressure, I applied a heavy crimp using the Lee FCD. As I learned more, I backed that crimp up quite a bit.
Set up properly, a Lee 4-die set will make it easy to adjust the crimp. Post sizing, if it is done, is another issue entirely.
Jim H.
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KBintheSLC
Member
I agree... BB's standard loading is at the top of the pressure range. However, how does that translate to such a high cost? I mean, does an extra 0.5 grain of power really cost that much? I can understand of they are using some space-age high tech jacketed bullets with corrosion proof coated casings... but just for plain old cast lead slugs in basic brass casings? The high cost makes no sense to me. Besides being overloaded/hot, what in the heck makes this stuff so "premium"?
freakshow10mm
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You can get within 25-35fps of their claimed velocities by using canister powders. I'm testing some non-canister powders and it's not all that impressive.
Now if they can get a powder that burns like 800X but meters like ball powder, 10mm would be reborn all over again.
Now if they can get a powder that burns like 800X but meters like ball powder, 10mm would be reborn all over again.
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