Building a fortified house

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I firmly believe that the odds of defending against a natural disaster are much greater than they are for "civil unrest" scenarios.

I agree.


While it's a great idea to take measures to secure your home, and there are certainly things you can do to make it self sufficient I personally would not sink my fortunes into a structure that will be a total economic financial loss when you want to move or retire.

You'd be better off having an acceptable home that you upgrade with simple defensive improvements and invest your money in assets that will gain value... so that you can buy LAND away from PEOPLE if that's what you are trying to protect yourself from...


For example, you could spend a million dollars on your dreamhouse and I could destroy or drive you out with a few malitov coctails.

Some ideas, however, to add to the list if you are wanting to make a great home are an external wood burning stove connected to your water heater(s) and that will connect thru your ductwork. Also a lot of fire extinguishers.
 
IMHO, one can build a very secure home (in all aspects) and fit in with any community. If planned smartly, there may be a little more expense, but little if any loss in resale value.

IIRC, the OP is in Kansas. A basement set up as a tornado shelter is a selling point. It is also suitable for use as a fallout shelter. ICF construction costs a little more, but it is mainstream now and offers super insulation. I could go on...

I would avoid stuff like domes, earth homes, etc. That is where you IMHO will lose your you know what, if you ever try to resell.
 
You might be surprised to learn how many houses have some sort of built in "bunkers". I think it was more popular in the 50s and 60s but I'm sure never ceased. I have been in a couple houses that have "concrete rooms" in them.
 
My only suggestion to add would be to put the laundry room as near to the bedrooms as possible.

Hey, you've already got tons of great ideas and advice, and schlepping the laundry up and down stairs is just ignorant! Where do you keep your clean clothes? And where do you take off your dirty ones? The bedrooms! Put the laundry room close! You've gotta live there, make life easy. I remember looking at some big-dollar houses, with the bedrooms on the 2nd floor and the laundry in the basement. NFW I'd buy that.
 
My parents just finished their retirement house using that ICF construction. That building could work as a bomb shelter. That concrete construction is impressive. My dad built it for energy saving reasons (with geothermal heating too), but it could easily take some hard core abuse. The builders drilled out some cores to install piping and such, and the concrete is a foot thick.

You could easily build in a gun vault room using that type of construction.

You might be surprised to learn how many houses have some sort of built in "bunkers". I think it was more popular in the 50s and 60s but I'm sure never ceased. I have been in a couple houses that have "concrete rooms" in them.

My girlfriend's grandparents have one of those. Its pretty cool to go visit them and see the shelter. It has the works, canned beans and cots and all the accessories. It even has an escape route to dig out into the yard, in case the house collapsed.

My girlfriend's parents like to laugh and snicker about it (anti-gun statists), but if I lived way way back then (take that old timers! :neener: j/k) I'd have probably built one too. They lived within the fallout range of multiple nuke targets. Can't blame a man for wanting to protect his family the best way he could given the times. Interestingly the grandparents who built the bunker are also hardcore anti-gun. No ammo stashes in that bunker.


Oh lastly you must install a firehouse firepole to slide down, and a urinal in the bathroom nearest your gun vault in the basement or garage. That is my idea of customized....
 
That's O.K.

take that old timers! j/k

One day You'll be an old timer (if you're lucky), and the next thing that will happen is that someone will be patting you in the face with a shovel.


No one is getting out alive.
 
Windows are typically too low in standard housing Recommend lower sill of window be at 42-48" AFF. Harder to break into and provides more protection for occupants.
 
You can have the safest, most secure house ever designed, but all someone has to do is put a gun up against your wife's head as she gets out of her car in the driveway and then you'll be doing anything they ask (sorry to be a bubble-burster).

So... don't forget training your family in situational awareness, etc. Maybe get the wife and yourself a CCW permit.

Suggestions for the house:

Bullet-resistant Fiberglas wall panels for interior walls:

http://www.armorcore.com/

Steel security mesh to provide penetration barriers:

http://amico-securityproducts.com/mesh.htm

Bullet-proof doors and frames:

http://www.cecodoor.com/default.aspx?Doc=products/ArmorShield Door and Frame System.htm

I would design my house in layers so that you would be able slam and lock a door to slow down any bad guys in your house while you hightail your family to the safe room.
 
Friendjust built his house from ICF - walls are 8" steel-reinforced concrete walls with concrete tiles for the roof. It also has a hidden stair and elevator leading to his underground gun range. But if you don't have independent power and water, it won't do much good after a few days.

Passive solar greenhouse for heat and food growing and active for power generation, along with wind turbine. I would have a welded steel deck under the roof attached to steel roof joists that are bolted to the anchor bolts embedded into the solid concrete walls. You could use storm window treatments like they have here in FL - like roll-down doors over every opening.

It would also help if you earth-shelter as much as possible, if not going underground. There are missle silos in the midwest that have been converted to homes
 
Wonderful thread. I was just talking to a contractor today about building a new home on 10 acres in the very near future. I gave him the preliminary design and was speaking about "fields of fire" and "safe rooms"... and he understood. Guess there are a lot more of us thinking this way now-a-days.

Keep the ideas and product links coming. I have already picked up several good ideas that I had not thought of.

idoono
 
I'm an IT guy so I'll throw my 2 cents in on the CAT6 cabling.

CAT6 cabling is good but in order to get maximum bandwidth from it the devices you use will also need to be gigabit, or 1000Mbit (1000 megabit, aka 1000 meg). Most home networking equipment is only 100Mbit (100 megabit), and most DSL and cable internet offered will no go faster than 10Mbit (10 megabit) unless you're in an area with something like Verizon's FiOS.

CAT6 is also a major headache to use due to the additional thickness of the cable because of the way its made so it can push those speeds.

Make sure that no matter what cable you decide to use, you use plenum rated cabling (fire retardent low smoke PVC coated) so that in the event of a fire the cabling won't spread the flames to other parts of the building. This way you meet fire code and won't need to run separate conduit for your data cables.

CAT5/5e/6 all have different types of cable: UTP, STP, and direct burial are the more common types found.

UTP = Unshielded twisted pair
STP = Shielded twisted pair
Direct burial = used for outdoor purposes and is rated to be buried without the use of a conduit.

If you're going to be running your data cables within 18 inches of any AC power lines or flourescent lighting, make sure you use STP cable due to the additional RF/EM interference generated by AC current passing through the power lines inside your walls, and by the transformers in flourescent lights. This can seriously degrade the signal or flat out stop it.



Kris
 
rebar door reinforcements

I've installed these reinforcements on important doors. Very simple to do requiring only a drill and a drill bit, eye-bolts, and 40" lenghts of rebar. The eyebolts are about 50 cents each, and the rebar was scrap that I got for free. Total cost per door was about $2 and 5 minutes of time.

My doors are certainly not inpeneratrable, but it would pose a difficulty to someone trying to break in, and likley add a few minutes of time for me to react, and also create a lot of noise as the criminal kicks on the door and the bolts and rebar crash to the floor.

The other advantage is that they are easily removed from the inside; just tug it a few inches to the side and the fall out, just in case of emergency quick evacuation.

I also installed a $1 alarm/siren on every window and exterior door, which creates a loud siren that I can hear from any part of my house. Total cost about $10 to alarm every door and window.

Not perfect, but these two inexpensive devices give me a lot of peace of mind when I'm home because it creates noise and increases my time to react.

I hope others here can use my techniques to their benefit for home security ideas.
 

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I spent a few years working at a complex that had pretty good security for its buildings. No, it wasn't a jail or anything like that, just a collection of privately owned buildings inside a perimeter. The company which owned the complex did a really good job on the security. Seeing a well secured commercial building makes you realize just how flimsy and unsafe the average single family dwelling is.

A few things I like from these commercial buildings that I would like to see implemented in a single family dwelling are.

Extra-wide, all metal door frames with steel reinforced wooden doors - no fiber glass/plastic (most residential interior and exterior doors). Heavy duty, hook style door knobs with each door having it's own deadbolt extending into the metal door frame with a keyed lock for the bolt. The doors would basically be a solid wood door with a metal sheets on either side with a welded exoskeleton around the door. These look like normal doors (the ones I have seen). Your fire department will be able to get in these doors - bad guys won't, not without a team of guys and specialized equipment. This is for all doors, interior and exterior.

Also, all exterior doors have electronic, proximity locks. Anyone who has worked in an office knows about these. Basically a key fob very quickly unlocks the door for you. The door is always locked, but entry and exit takes a second or two with the fob, much, much faster than trying to fumble with keys and get the door open. If you had to say, flee an attacker and enter your home quickly this would be your ticket. Plus, since the door is always locked as soon as the door swings shut it's secured, no interior locks to fumble with. All these doors can be manually unlocked with a standard key as well.

It was already mentioned but I'll mention it again. Metal security mesh for the inside of walls, secured to the framing. These metal meshes are placed at the center of the framing behind any electrical or plumbing for the rooms. You wouldn't need these for all the walls but the bedrooms are a good idea and all exterior walls, assuming you don't have real brick or concrete block construction. Chances are if you live in the SE and have a home built after 1990 you have concrete block at least for the first floor, with wood framing for the second floor, if you have one.


The next item might sound like overkill to some but I think it's a good idea. Half-height, wrought iron bars for all first floor windows. Yes, I said it, put bars on your windows. Here's how to make them look decorative and nice and NOT like trash. Paint them the color of your shudders or house trim, make sure you use half-height bars, full height aren't needed - no one is going to climb over them, if they try they will get holes poked in them. Also, put flower boxes on the outside of them to hide the base. Also, put shrubs outside these windows which reach slightly above the base of the bars. People won't notice them and the window will be secured and look nice.

Cameras - you need a camera system, but there are so many ideas on this, it needs its own thread.

Lastly is a good outside lighting system which illuminates all the areas around the house, specifically entry doors and first floor windows. Yes, you can effectively light the exterior of your home without flooding your neighbors windows with light. I've done it, it requires using overhangs to channel the light downward against the door/window/wall/yard and not out into the road or at a neighbors house. I have my entire exterior lit attached to two switches, one in my kitchen and one in my bedroom which activates all the lights, either switch.

Hope that helps!
 
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Also, put shrubs outside these windows which reach slightly above the base of the bars. People won't notice them and the window will be secured and look nice.

Standard security guidance is to keep shrubs or any plants someone can conceal themselves behind away from window. This denies BGs a hiding place to work on windows and denies the creepy peepers their observation place. If you just have to put shrubs around the house plant those that have lots of long thorns so that no one wants to squeeze between them or between them and the house. Shrubs should always be barriers and part of your defense in depth, not concealment for BGs.
 
As far as plants by windows, plant ones with LOTS of thorns - roses, blackberries, etc. Use pea gravel around them and for a path - it ALWAYS makes noise when you walk on it
 
Standard security guidance is to keep shrubs or any plants someone can conceal themselves behind away from window. This denies BGs a hiding place to work on windows and denies the creepy peepers their observation place

I don't share this opinion. For me, I want heavy shrubs/bushes which go all the way up to the house (no walk space) and extend past the windows maybe a yard in each direction against the house wall. The point of these plants is to keep people away from the windows. Unless your home is well lit, not having a barrier there gives with perp' a perfect, dark place to work without obstruction. Sorry, I just don't agree with you.
 
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fortified house

You have some great ideas. The emergency access to the basement might be hard to get past a building inspector- for the same reason that laundry chutes are a no-no, this can be a fire risk since there is a direct path from basement to upstairs. Might want to rough in with a removable section should you decide to modify later. Also, in event of a roof collapse, it wouldn't want a concrete roof coming down on my head. This construction method results in a very solid, comfortable, energy efficient home, albeit more expensive than conventional construction.
 
Ironwood has some wicked thorns.

There is another plant the .mil picked 10 or 15 years ago that would stop a car or pickup. They were going to use it as the outside layer for sensitive instalations. I just don't recall the name but did see the video in the net somewhere. Worked very well!

update
Here is a link for ironwood
http://plants.usda.gov/java/profile?symbol=OLTE&photoID=olte_002_ahp.tif
Seems your not in the area for it. I have seen it in Texas as a hedge and it grows slow but not so slow as it must be trimmed once a year.
 
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If you are considering building a fortified home, try reading "The Secure Home" by Joel Skousen. It's a great book, and even though some of the suggestions are so expensive that most of us can't afford the upgrades, there is still a lot of information about how to make our homesteads much more secure than they are currently. It's worth a read!
 
I have everything below grade. Anything that can strip up road from the ground can certainly pick up a steel roof. Doors open out not in and are made of material that will withstand a 2x4@200MPH. Utility bills are "low".
 
you could have all the closets in the same general area in the house. they sort of make a ring so you can have an empty space between all them. then you just put a small door in each closet to gain access to this room. then this room can lead to a sectioned off area in the basement. a hidden room below the small space between the closets. in this room, you can put supplies, i like the water heater idea incase you need water from a natural disaster.

this room should have a heavy door that leads into the rest of the basement. and you could turn the room into like a theater, storage closet, game room, etc.... so it's not wasted space in the house.
 
Also keep in mind a special ventilation system for your shelter portion that will sustain life for an extended period.
 
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Instead of stairs down to the safe room... Batpoles!

Serious, might be faster... There is a reason firehouses use em.
 
i like the idea of a roman townhouse type structure, no outward facing windows on the first floor.
 
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