Building an AR-15 from the ground up

[gotboostvr]

I agree with @gotboostvr. I've built a couple ARs, and think building a lower is a fun project. But my latest were built on a couple of complete lowers bought on sale from PSA. I then waited for a sale on uppers and bought a couple of 18-inch 6.5 Grendels, one of which I pulled and sold the barrel from and replaced it with a 24-inch 6mm ARC from EAB. Both triggers got replaced, and the ARC now wears a Magpul PRS Lite stock. They are "what I want" without going through the full build process. Nothing wrong with the latter, but my approach was pretty painless.

Well, it's more of a "do as I say, not as I do".

I usually just play musical parts with my various uppers and spare parts. I might add a new barrel, or maybe handguard here or there, but I'm usually just shuffling spare parts around for my "New Builds".

 

[Lo-Profile]

For a first, I'd start build a Aero Precision lower and parts kits. Then buy a complete Aero Precision upper to go with it.

Palmetto State has parts kits under $400, just add a Lower

 

[HKGuns]

Lol..ya, here we go again
The only thing he would be paying for is a more fancy roll stamp. The componets themselves will not be one bit better.

While you are certainly entitled to your opinion, you're also wrong on all counts. But hey, why let a little thing like that get in the way.

 

[DMW1116]

I’m in the middle of a lower and upper build now. It started as a URG-I inspired (not copy) build. I can recommend the use of a lower build kit with all the parts to complete the lower. I tried to piece meal the lower parts but two things happened.

1. I wanted matching parts from the same source.
2. When I went to the PSA stores I pass in my travels, they never had a complete set of anything. I could get pivot and takedown pins, but no detents or springs were in stock. I could get a bolt release, pivot pin, and spring, but no plunger.

I ended up with a lower build kit with all the parts from the same source. It also came with an upgraded trigger and B5 stock.

I was trying to piece meal parts because I already had some random parts and wanted to use them. I had a spare stock, one pivot pin spring and detent, and spare trigger/fore control group. They’re all still in their boxes.

 

[Megawatt maker]

While you are certainly entitled to your opinion, you're also wrong on all counts. But hey, why let a little thing like that get in the way.

Lol. Ya..right. not wrong in the least. But you go on a waste your cash on those fancy roll stamps if it makes you feel good brother.

 

[TheotherMikeG]

Yeah, well I'm going to diverge from the recommendations for PSA, Anderson etc.....With his budget he can easily afford better components than some of the recommendations.

Since he's building a range gun and not a tactical rifle, why not put that extra cash towards ammo?

 

[js8588]

Since he's building a range gun and not a tactical rifle, why not put that extra cash towards ammo?

Better to build it right than waste ammo figuring out why it won't shoot.

 

[mavracer]

Better to build it right than waste ammo figuring out why it won't shoot.

Spending 300 on a handguard or 200 on a lower won't make you all of a sudden more capable of assembling it correctly.

 

[Megawatt maker]

Spending 300 on a handguard or 200 on a lower won't make you all of a sudden more capable of assembling it correctly.

Lol..ya, never saw a roll stamp go together any different than Anderson, PSA, etc...

 

[js8588]

Spending 300 on a handguard or 200 on a lower won't make you all of a sudden more capable of assembling it correctly.

No, but a $300 rail like a SOLGW M89 will have a lot less flex which affects shot to shot accuracy. A $200 lower might have tighter tolerances creating less slop and/or ambidextrous controls making the rifle more enjoyable to shoot. A $150/$200 upper might provide a thermal fit to the barrel along with thicker walls, decreasing flex and increasing accuracy. A $300-$500 barrel is likely a guaranteed shooter vs a lesser rack grade barrel which may be accurate or may be a tomato stake.

 

[Megawatt maker]

No, but a $300 rail like a SOLGW M89 will have a lot less flex which affects shot to shot accuracy. A $200 lower might have tighter tolerances creating less slop and/or ambidextrous controls making the rifle more enjoyable to shoot. A $150/$200 upper might provide a thermal fit to the barrel along with thicker walls, decreasing flex and increasing accuracy. A $300-$500 barrel is likely a guaranteed shooter vs a lesser rack grade barrel which may be accurate or may be a tomato stake.

Do you know where SOL sources that rail from?

It's the same place everyone else get theirs. It takes a very large, very heavy, and obnoxiously expensive piece of equipment to extrude aluminum like that. You really think a tiny company like SOL can afford it? Just to make their own handgurards?

Nope...they don't.

They buy them from Midwest industies..just like 99% of all the other names out there.

Again...youre just paying for a roll stamp. Nothing any more special about that particular handgurad than any other M loc style.

Higher tolerance on the lowers you say? Like outside Mil Spec? I don't think so...that's why there is mil spec. Heat fit upper...that one I agree with you on..but the price difference between a non heat fit upper from PSA, and a heat fit from BCM..isn't much at all. Does it make a big difference? Not that I've noticed...and I've used both in builds...but it's still debatable at least...

 

[mavracer]

No, but a $300 rail like a SOLGW M89 will have a lot less flex which affects shot to shot accuracy.

LOL if pressure on your handguard is causing shot to shot variations it's not assembled correctly.

A $200 lower might have tighter tolerances creating less slop and/or ambidextrous controls making the rifle more enjoyable to shoot.

I guess it might but it might not since they probably came from the same place. Pretty sure you can put ambi controls on a 50 stripped lower as easily as a 200 stripped lower.

A $300-$500 barrel is likely a guaranteed shooter vs a lesser rack grade barrel which may be accurate or may be a tomato stake.

Barrel is a fine place to spend a bit more, I ain't paying 500 for a 223/556 barrel though, maybe for a custom chambering.
But age quod agis and caveat emptor.

 

[TheotherMikeG]

Better to build it right than waste ammo figuring out why it won't shoot.

I think you're conflating money spent with a good build. 2 very different things

 

[HKGuns]

Since he's building a range gun and not a tactical rifle, why not put that extra cash towards ammo?

Because he stated that was his budget for the rifle. I assume he has the cash to feed it outside of this expenditure. While generally this is great advice, as long as you aren't buying a rifle well below your budget.

 

[Uffdaphil]

I’ve built at least 20 ARs in several calibers. For a first build I would usually recommend a complete factory upper and stripped lower, but with your budget and a friend with experience and tools who can guide you through the process you are better off doing the whole thing yourself as a learning experience. Knowing what tools are indispensable will save you a lot of frustration in future. Just know building is addictive. A spare lower will nag you worse than a dog after bacon.

Barrel basics - stainless steel for accuracy, mid-length gas up to 16”’, rifle gas better though usually means 18”+. BCM 410 is good. Ranier Ultramatch is very good. Others better, but I have not tried because $$$ and my old eyes are not good enough to use to full advantage.

BCGS - LMT with enhanced bolt is great, but too spendy for me. Sionics NP3 is my top choice because it is so easy to clean even after a session with filthy suppressed 300 Blackout. Full auto carriers only. Lightweight competition BCGs would require fine tuning and not needed for your use.

Trigger - Geissele SD-E is my no. 1, Larue MBT best bang for the buck.

Lowers - I somewhar agree with the “just as good as“ crowd except some are not. Hard to tell the junky ones when there is always some users who have never had any issues. Ones I trust are - Mega Gator, BCM, Colt, LRB, Noveske (love Gen 2), LMT Defender and Mars L, Centurion. For a .308 build I chose an Aero M5 upper and lower that work well. Have not tried their 5.56 though.

Good luck.

 

[The Glockodile]

The three most imported parts on an AR are, the barrel, the BCG and the trigger. I’ve built ARs with the cheapest parts available and from very expensive part, and haven’t had any real problems.

Second that.

Everything’s so cookie - cutter nowadays that the industry has got it all down pat, that it’s really hard to mess things up, even when using bottom - of - the - barrel components (as long as you have the three most important parts above accounted for).

Adjustable gas blocks are usually nice to have - as a matter of fact, I just converted two of my Superlative Arms pistons into non - pistons.

 

[js8588]

Do you know where SOL sources that rail from?

It's the same place everyone else get theirs. It takes a very large, very heavy, and obnoxiously expensive piece of equipment to extrude aluminum like that. You really think a tiny company like SOL can afford it? Just to make their own handgurards?

Nope...they don't.

They buy them from Midwest industies..just like 99% of all the other names out there.

Again...youre just paying for a roll stamp. Nothing any more special about that particular handgurad than any other M loc style.

Higher tolerance on the lowers you say? Like outside Mil Spec? I don't think so...that's why there is mil spec. Heat fit upper...that one I agree with you on..but the price difference between a non heat fit upper from PSA, and a heat fit from BCM..isn't much at all. Does it make a big difference? Not that I've noticed...and I've used both in builds...but it's still debatable at least...

They source from Zev, not Midwest Industries.

 

[KCAce]

LOTS of great comments here. I’ve only built 2, both from Anderson lowers and LPK’s. I did put a better trigger in the ‘range rifle’. I had help, too, from my son who is really gifted with all mechanical things. Great experience…please share yours when it’s done.
Just a couple thoughts to add that haven’t been touched on much…stick with a common caliber to save ammo $ and keep things simple on your first one. And think about how much of that $1600 is for the optic. To make good 300 yard shots I’d lean towards a quality 3-9 scope but you might be happy with a LPVO or even a good red dot (I like holosun). Point is that the optic might be pricey depending on what you want.
So…if it were me I’d go with PSA or Aero for the parts, put in a great trigger and barrel, and put some good glass on top.
Have a great time with your build. Look forward to pics and range report.
KCAce

 

[Megawatt maker]

They source from Zev, not Midwest Industries.

Lol...Zev gets them from Midwest

EDIT ADDED. Nothing wrong with SOG sourcing from Zev, or in turn them sourcing from Midwest...it's just how it's done. I'm sure they spec their own little tidbits just to say they are their own..at the end of the day the difference mean zilch, other than the price.

I learned this the hard way. Started with PSA (sourced from Midwest), bought a BCM...(also from Midwest) found the barrel nut was identical to PSAs. Bought a Giessele at outrageous price..thinking it HAD to be a step up for the price...it wasn't. They did a few little things..like anti tilt tabs and a stronger (In theory) grip on the barrel nut..but with close examination ...it too came from Midwest....

After that..I just buy Midwest..because they are very good in the first place..and any others you just pay more for the name.

 

[js8588]

Lol...Zev gets them from Midwest

EDIT ADDED. Nothing wrong with SOG sourcing from Zev, or in turn them sourcing from Midwest...it's just how it's done. I'm sure they spec their own little tidbits just to say they are their own..at the end of the day the difference mean zilch, other than the price.

I learned this the hard way. Started with PSA (sourced from Midwest), bought a BCM...(also from Midwest) found the barrel nut was identical to PSAs. Bought a Giessele at outrageous price..thinking it HAD to be a step up for the price...it wasn't. They did a few little things..like anti tilt tabs and a stronger (In theory) grip on the barrel nut..but with close examination ...it too came from Midwest....

After that..I just buy Midwest..because they are very good in the first place..and any others you just pay more for the name.

Zev does not source them from Midwest. That's false.
They're their own thing. They also manufacture MEGA, Hodge, Grey Ghost Precision, Rosco, Icon Defense and I'm sure a few others.

The other big OEM for handguards is Bowden Tactical.

Midwest Industries OEMs for almost no one.

 

[Megawatt maker]

Zev does not source them from Midwest. That's false.
They're their own thing. They also manufacture MEGA, Hodge, Grey Ghost Precision, Rosco, Icon Defense and I'm sure a few others.

The other big OEM for handguards is Bowden Tactical.

Midwest Industries OEMs for almost no one.

You sure about that? You'd better recheck your premise.

 

[js8588]

You sure about that? You'd better recheck your premise.

I am absolutely certain, having talked to the folks at both SOLGW and Zev.

 

[Megawatt maker]

I am absolutely certain, having talked to the folks at both SOLGW and Zev.

Better keep checking

 

[js8588]

Better keep checking

Reddit - Dive into anything

www.reddit.com

 

[mavracer]

I still want to know how the aluminum free float handguard's flex affects shot to shot performance if the barrel/upper and STEEL BARREL NUT are properly assembled?