bullet crimping

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gutterman

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I have the Lee Carbide die sets for all my reloading, and have been using the crimp method with the seating die. I am not convinced that this is enough crimp, and I afraid to keep screwing the die in for more crimp as stated in the instructions. On the Lee website I gathered that the crimp die isn't necessary because the seating die does the work. I've began loading for the 45ACP and I've read that a "good" crimp is necessary for ease of chambering and accuracy, but am I getting what I need from the Lee seating die, or should I purchase a crimp die?.
 
A 45 ACP is supposed to headspace on the case mouth. Therefore, you do not want to put a heavy crimp in the cartridge.

Your "crimp" should just be enough to straighten out the bell you put in the case mouth. When the case mouth is back to parallel with the rest of the case body, stop. Do not attempt to fold the case mouth into the bullet as you would in a revolver cartridge.

If the bullet is not tight in the case, your problem is case tension, and a heavier crimp will not fix that problem.
 
All you need on the .45, or 9MM or .40 for that matter, is a light taper crimp. Just remove the bell and a hair more. (.000 to .002)

Neck tension does 99.9% of the work.

Some .45 ACP crimp pics.

The Lee seating die has a built in taper crimp, and it will work just fine. You can crimp in a separate step if you want, and some do, but you don't need to.
 
Shouldn't the case mouth mike out at 0.70" after crimp?
Gosh I hope not.
That would be .67 ACP caliber! :what:

The case mouth should measure .469" - .471" when the taper crimp is correct.

It can vary between the smaller with .451" jacketed bullets to the larger with .452" lead bullets & case mouth thickness variations.

rc
 
I agree.

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