Bullet pull 454 alaskan

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mewachee

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Alright, I know why the bullet pulls. However, there are people shooting much higher velocities than I. Here is some background,

Ruger Alaskan 454 (40 oz.)
335 gr. WLNGC Cast Performance
Hornady Brass
RCBS dies
Roll crimping

Ok, these bullets have deep cannelures, and I am roll crimping all the way in. At 1300 fps, I cannot shoot the 6th round. At 1250 fps I can shoot all 6, but there still is some pull.

Any ideas?

Could belling the case have something to do with it. I am shooting today with brass that is a minimum bell, hoping that might help.

Could this just be a factor of gun weight verses bullet weight, factoring in recoil?
 
Could this just be a factor of gun weight verses bullet weight, factoring in recoil?
Yes!

If the lead bullets are not cast pretty hard, the crimping groove is probably deforming to some extent.
Probably wouldn't happen with jacketed bullets.

You might also have an expander plug that is too large, so you aren't getting enough case-neck tension.

Are you getting any noticeable case swelling at the base of the bullet? If not, you might try turning .001" - .002' off the expander button and see if that helps.

rcmodel
 
I am only running the expander down somewhere between 1/32 and 1/16 on the loads I have for today. We are leaving in a little bit, will see if there is a difference.

You can see the bullet through the brass.
 
no improvements today. Not sure how to improve this. It is almost like the seater die doesn't squeeze done on the brass then bullet hard enough (not talking about crimping). Could it be that the brass is too hard, hence bouncing back? This brass has only been shot 2 or 3 times, could these problems be caused from being worked?

Why have a 6 banger, if you can only load 4 rounds?
 
I think of two things to suggest. First, I'd try backing off on the crimp a little and see if things improve. Sometimes, especially with cast bullets, if you crimp too hard you actually swage the bullet a bit and end up with a relatively loose crimp. Backing off on the crimp might actually make it tighter. Worth a try and pretty cheap.

If that doesn't work, it looks like you will need to reduce your charge or bullet weight to get the recoil down a bit. You might also try another brand of bullet that might be a smidge bigger in diameter to get more bullet pull in the case.
 
thanks, I will try that.

I would assume that the bullet is large enough, because the Gas Check is expanding the brass. I can see how far the bullet seats clearly.

Shooting this bullet at 1050 fps, you can see that the crimp is pulling back on the cannelure, but doesn't pull out. I need this bullet to perform over 1200 fps.

I have seen where some have said to use the lee crimping die, but I can't see where that would make a difference, because I can get a huge crimp from what I have.
 
I have seen where some have said to use the lee crimping die, but I can't see where that would make a difference, because I can get a huge crimp from what I have.

Get a Redding Profile Crimp Die. It combines a taper and a roll crimp, and is the best crimp die you can get for straight walled revolver cartridges. More than a few have cured problems with heavy loads jumping crimp by switching to the Redding.
 
I can't help you, but I had a similar issue. Round three of a cylinderful tied up my brand new 44 yesterday. Pushed it back in with my finger and finished up. It was one of 50 I fired, a 200 JHP, with a cannelure, and these were all loaded to magnum level. I loaded them all on a Dillon SD. No problems with any other rounds. Got home and measured brass - was right in the ballpark with all the rest on length and thickness. Although I know it is crude, hardness/brittleness seemed about the same. I am clueless.
I always use minimum belling and crimp pretty good into the cannelure as crimping and seating are two different steps.
Oh, and when I touched that one off, it went right straight directly into the perfect center of the target. So much for crimp affecting accuracy on that one.
 
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