Bullet seating - .223

[dwilliams6401]

Well, I went and done it... finally purchased my first AR-15, Windham Weaponry Model WW-CF.

Really like the way it shoots and now I need to start reloading for it. I have a Lee Turret loader and figured out it's not like reloading my 9mm, so much to learn when you first get started. I'll setup without the auto-index so I can use my turret as a single stage press. I'm planning on neck resizing only since I don't have any other .223 rifles and Lee suggests using their Lee Collet die. I'll only be using brass I've purchased and fired in the AR personally so it be for my WW-CF only.

So I'm turning to you experts again to keep me on the straight and narrow path.

I'd appreciate any suggestions on what powder to use.

I'd also like advice on how to determine my bullet seating depth. I'm finding rifle reloading is a little different than handgun reloading and I don't want anything blowing up in my face.


Thanks in advance and good shooting!

 

[cfullgraf]

There are many powders that work well in the 223 Remington. With 55 grain bullets, I use Accurate 2230. Varget with 69 grain bullets. Lots of folks will chime in with different opinions.

I do not crimp my 223 rifle rounds. Or any other rifle round for that matter. But, I do not load any shoulder busters either.

Neck tension holds the bullet in place, not the crimp.

Load to magazine length. i target for 2.250" COL. Many magazines can hold a bit longer.

Bullets with cannelure such as 55 grain FMJs, may be a bit shorter when seated to the cannelure.

Enjoy your new rifle.

 

[grogetr]

I have always thought you had to full length size for semi auto but could be wrong.

I have good results with cfe223,h335 and w748 powders with 55gn bullets.

I just follow what the manual says for oal on seating. From what i've read you can't really try to seat close to the lands on an AR. The smart guys will be along to give some good advice soon. Welcome aboard the THR family.

 

[Ironicaintit]

You're going to want to fully size that brass, even if it is only used in the one rifle. Some guys go so gar as to use small base dies to ensure reliable feeding... I havent had to go that far, but a full length size with a standard die is SOP for an autoloader.

I seat the bullet to accomodate whatever the magazine will allow.

 

[ColoradoShooter77]

As far as powder goes, there are many that work well in .223. Personally, I like H-4895, IMR-8208, and Accurate 2460.

With 55 grain FMJ-BT bullets, I seat those at 2.220" and it works fine. Some 55 grain bullets are longer than others, like the Nosler Varmageddon. With those, I have to seat them at 2.250", they are very long for a 55 grain bullet.

Depending on the powder you use, go to that manufacturer's website and it should have recommended bullet seating depth's.

 

[otrman]

Well, for any semi auto you will have to FL size and it is a good idea to get a case gauge. I usually average around 5 or so cases per 1000 that will not fit case gauge after being sized. Neck sizing only works with brass fired in a bolt gun and only for brass fired in that bolt gun. The bottom 1/4 or so of the brass fired in a semi auto expands slightly more than the rest of the case due to the extraction process starting while there is still some chamber pressure. One of the reasons case head separation is more common with brass fired from semi than bolt. To check for the beginnings of a case head separation just run a wire or dental pic down inside the case feeling for a ridge that will form about a 1/4" or so up from the bottom. I check my brass for this going into the 3rd loading and have not had any show up until the 4th loading so far. Have a few lots of brass on the 7th load and none have shown up yet.

For seating depth, just use the data provided in the manual for the type of bullet you are using or if the bullet has a cannelure seat to it. Some say to always crimp, some say not. I don't and have yet to have an issue.

You may also need to trim the brass. If you are not going to crimp and the brass measures between 1.740 and 1.760 after sizing it is good to go. If longer you will need to trim and chamfer and debur case neck. If you are going to crimp it will all have to trimmed to the same length.

 

[snuffy]

Well, your first mistake is thinking you can neck size for an AR-15. The semi-auto function of the AR is NOT suited to neck sizing. The spring that loads and closes the bolt is not capable of jamming an oversize round into the chamber like a bolt action can. The shoulder of the .223 case HAS to be set back at least .002-.003 to allow the round to chamber.

The old standby for .223 powder is H-335. It is the same powder, WC-844 that is loaded for the military 55 grain bullets. Many others will work, just gaze at any reloading manual to find our what is being used.

As far as seating depth, you MUST seat so they will feed from a magazine. Any longer results in having to single load the rifle, hardly what you want from an AR-15. Most 55 grain pills will have a cannelure that when the bullet is seated to that depth, the round will fit any magazine.

The Lee classic turret is just fine for loading .223. If you want to charge powder on press you will need a powder measure. Lee's new auto drum is case activated and capable of throwing any charge. It's completely adjustable for all powders and is very consistent. If you want to prime on-press, the Lee safety prime is another good addition. Set up with both, you have a semi progressive operation with the auto advance rod installed. Sure, I know many want to size then trim, chamfer*, clean primer pockets, tumble to remove lube*, and do other case conditioning.

*Chamfering. You MUST inside chamfer every case mouth even if you don't trim-to-length. The bevel created by the chamfer tool aids the entrance of the bullet without damaging it.

*Lube. You MUST lube a bottle neck case to allow it to be full length sized. otherwise you WILL get it stuck in the die.

 

[TwoEyedJack]

Another vote for H335. This is my go-to powder for all of my .223 rifles, including an AR, a Tikka, and a Ruger #1V. It gives outstanding accuracy and meters extremely well through a Dillon powder measure. For the AR-15, I seat as long as I can and still feed through the magazine. The Magpul mags seem to be a little take a little longer rounds than the aluminum GI mags.

On Edit: A word about the Lee Collet Die. I use this for reloading ammo for my Ruger #1V. It gives me much better accuracy than a full length die, at least 1/2" better groups. However, the #1 action has very powerful camming action, which essentially resizes the round when you chamber it. I would not recommend this die for anything but a bolt action or Ruger #1.

 

[mike.h]

Yep, FL resize. And after all the experimenting is done, just seat the bullet to what the reloading manual says.

When you step up to a precision bolt action, then you can try neck sizing, loading to different lengths, etc.

 

[Stev32k]

As others have said you need to FL resize .223 rounds for firing in an AR. As for powder there are several good ones for .223: Varget, H335, BL(c)2, H322, and others.

I shoot a lot of .223 and started using CFE223 about 6 months ago. The main reason is it is the cleanest burning powder I've ever used. I can fire 200 - 300 rounds and it takes about 5 minutes to get the barrel completely clean. It meters like water (like H335) and is at least as accurate as varget or H335.

 

[W.E.G.]

purchased my first AR-15... I'm planning on neck resizing only

That would be a mistake.

You need to full-length resize all bottleneck rifle brass fired in an autoloader.

You need to use a CASE GAGE to be sure you set the shoulder to the correct dimension.

Crimping .223 handloads is completely unnecessary.
Test for correct neck tension by using one hand to firmly press the bullet tip of one of your loaded rounds against your gunsafe. If the bullet does not move back into the case under firm pressure, your neck tension is adequate.

I load all magazine-length .223 handloads to no more than 2.250" overall length.
Light bullets may require shorter overall length to get adequate seating of the bullet shank.

 

[Ifishsum]

Pretty much all of my .223 bullets get seated to 2.260-2.265 to fit the AR magazine without the tips dragging. The only exception is the 80 and 82 grain bullets I use for 600yd competition - they are seated long and single loaded. Most bullets 69gr and below have a tangent ogive and are not particularly sensitive to loading length anyway.

Powders I use most are BL-C(2), W748, H335 and Reloder 15. As has been said, you want to full length size for the AR (and other autoloaders) or you will almost surely have reliability issues. The bolt simply does not have the camming power to finish chambering if necessary.

I trim all of my rifle brass for consistency after the first resizing. Thereafter I check but most usually doesn't need trimming again for 3 loadings or so. I do not crimp either.

 

[W.E.G.]

2.260 will drag the tip of the bullet in some 30-round mags.

 

[Ledhore]

Actually neck sizing works very well for the .223 ar15. I use the Lee collet die to neck size followed by a Redding body die to just bump the shoulder back a tad. I get great accuracy ang long case life with this method.

 

[Walkalong]

Body dies are designed to full length size the case body and bump the shoulder position for proper chambering

So in essence your are full length sizing in two steps.

I full length size brass for .223 in Ar's and a Mini 14 and move the shoulder about .003 or .004. I get loose primer pockets before any other problems arise. That is anywhere from 8 to 12+ firings, depending on brand and pressures.

 

[RandyP]

H-335 was all I could find a while back so I'm sticking with it. It meters well thru my Pro Auto-Disk.

2.250 length.

I think the whole 'sizing' thing has been pretty well covered - lol