Bullets for .38/.357

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It’s better to do two even with cast, but absolutely don’t try to do both with jacketed bullets. I’ve crushed a few cases doing that after loading lots of cast, and switching to jacketed. Sometimes it will work OK. Sometimes you wind up with an explosive accordion.

When the dies are adjusted correctly, seating and crimping in one step is relatively simple and easy, especially with .38/.357. Makes complete sense on a SS, unless you are loading really heavy boomers in very long brass like the .460. If you're crushing cases with .38/.357 when seating and crimping, I guarantee you, it ain't the process.

Explosive accordion?
 
I use the copper plated x-treme bullets (Bass Pro was out of the other day, bought straight from the x-treme web site) for both 38spl and 357 in blackhawk revolver.
158gr, .357dia round nose flat point. Work ok but after reading the posts above I'm thinking to try coated bullets after i run out of x-treme . Good to know what you can shoot with what receipe in case supplys dry up even worse. I won't just give my credit card over to a small online company i never heard of either. Paranoid ? or just old.
 
I use a Dillon 650 and so I seat and crimp in 2 different dies. IF you’re using a single stage press I know some guys will say learn how to do both operations in a single step. The dies are made to do it that way. However it’s much easier to seat and crimp in 2 different operations.
I use a Dillon 550C and seat and crimp with two different dies. I started using two different dies when I switched to the 550 from my T-7 turrent press and RCBS dies. I'm pretty sure I've forgotten how to set up a die to seat and crimp in the same step. Setting up the Dillon seating die and the crimping die to put the roll crimp in the groove (cannelure?) is what I'm hazy on.
 
I use a Dillon 550C and seat and crimp with two different dies. I started using two different dies when I switched to the 550 from my T-7 turrent press and RCBS dies. I'm pretty sure I've forgotten how to set up a die to seat and crimp in the same step. Setting up the Dillon seating die and the crimping die to put the roll crimp in the groove (cannelure?) is what I'm hazy on.


What dies are you using on the Dillon? Dillon pistol dies for revolver cartridges use a roll crimp.
 
When the dies are adjusted correctly, seating and crimping in one step is relatively simple and easy, especially with .38/.357. Makes complete sense on a SS, unless you are loading really heavy boomers in very long brass like the .460. If you're crushing cases with .38/.357 when seating and crimping, I guarantee you, it ain't the process.

Explosive accordion?
It’s really only a problem when you have cases slip in that are longer than what you set the dies for. When that happens, the crimp groove can get covered up by the brass, and when the crimp is applied, the longer brass can grasp the bullet with no groove to go into. Since the case mouth has no where to go, it goes down with the bullet. When that happens, you get a deformed case.
 
It’s really only a problem when you have cases slip in that are longer than what you set the dies for. When that happens, the crimp groove can get covered up by the brass, and when the crimp is applied, the longer brass can grasp the bullet with no groove to go into. Since the case mouth has no where to go, it goes down with the bullet. When that happens, you get a deformed case.

But how is that any different when done in two steps as opposed to in one? You are still gonna try and crimp above the cannelure. If you dies are set-up correctly, you are not going to have enough bullet travel when the crimp starts to deform the brass. At least not enough to go past the whole cannelure. If those cases are that long you get a crushed case doing it in one step, odds are you are going to get a bulged case in two. That brass too has to go somewhere. It goes out instead of down. Your final crimp is to the center of the cannelure, this gives you a margin of error. If you need more than that, you probably need to be more selective of your brass, or ease up on your crimp. For you boys with a progressive and enough stations, two steps is no more steps. Not so much for a SS. Again for heavy for caliber, or heavy recoiling loads in longer cases, there is a chance of crushing a case. In .357 and using a SS where you need another stroke for each round, the minuscule risk of a crushed case is well worth it when it comes to thousands of rounds. At least in my book.
 
For range loads I use 158 grain coated lead SWC Brazos precision bullets. Usually with a 38 Special load of HP-38. Low recoil and pretty accurate. Even my wife loves shooting them! :thumbup:
 
Slug your bore. All of my 38s do fine with 9mm bullets. I haven’t run across anything yet that will act up with anything other than 9mm lead that is not gas checked. That may give you an option to use something that you already stock. I like the heavy 9mm bullets, and I like light bullets for 357. It works out pretty well for me.
 
It’s really only a problem when you have cases slip in that are longer than what you set the dies for. When that happens, the crimp groove can get covered up by the brass, and when the crimp is applied, the longer brass can grasp the bullet with no groove to go into. Since the case mouth has no where to go, it goes down with the bullet. When that happens, you get a deformed case.
That's a lot longer, but the point is valid, and is the reason I trim all revolver brass unless it is all the same lot from a good maker, even though sometimes I crimp in a second step. Since all of my .38 Spl is range brass, I trimmed it all. Actually I do have one box of 100 new Starline cases that's been sitting around for probably 20 years or so.
 
What dies are you using on the Dillon? Dillon pistol dies for revolver cartridges use a roll crimp.
I'll be using Dillon dies. So do you seat the bullet so that the cannelure is even with the case mouth? Or do you seat the bullet to meet the desired OAL and that puts the cannelure in the right place? I'm sure I'm making this more complicated than it is. I guess I should just wait until I have everything and figure it out when I start reloading.
 
For .38 Spl & .357 Mag, using bullets with a good cannelure (Not just roll marks), or a good crimp groove I seat the bullet so the case mouth is in the middle of the cannelure or will roll crimp into the crimp groove, and that is my OAL for that bullet.

125 Gr lead with a crimp groove
Medium Roll Crimp on a D&J 125 Gr RFN In .38 Spl Pic 1.JPG

125 Gr JHP with a cannelure.
Heavy Roll Crimp Into Cannelure on 125 Gr Mag-Tech in .357 Mag Pic 1.JPG
 
For .38 Spl & .357 Mag, using bullets with a good cannelure (Not just roll marks), or a good crimp groove I seat the bullet so the case mouth is in the middle of the cannelure or will roll crimp into the crimp groove, and that is my OAL for that bullet.

125 Gr lead with a crimp groove
View attachment 940715

125 Gr JHP with a cannelure.
View attachment 940713
Great info! Thank you.
 
Just for range and targets, look for the deals/best prices on 148 gr wadcutters or 158 gr SWC or RNFP. Or get all three!
 
I have shot these Berrys 148 Gr HBWC bullets in .38 Spl for years.
The advent of coated bullets is changing some of my plated bullet buying.
Light Taper Crimp on a Berry's 148 Gr HBWC In .38 Spl - Pic 1.JPG
 
I've been using Xtreme copper coated 158 gr round nose flat points in my SP-101, GP-100, and my Henry BBB and they shoot great in all of them. I'm probably pushing them a little hard in my Henry but they shoot decent groups.
 
My advice is to buy plated. I bought a big box of two different brand "coated" bullets. ACME and Missouri. It seems like a fraud to me. I can scratch the coating off with my fingernail. They both leaded up my bore in less than 50 shots, though I did shoot them at higher than the velocity recommended because I didn't realize they had such a low limit. I set them aside and went back to plated bullets -- Berry's, RMR, and Speer TMJ. Occasionally I will find a good deal on jacketed bullets like XTP which I prefer even more but they usually cost a lot more. I was buying 158 grain plated bullets for 8 to 9 cents each. I don't get the coated bullet thing at all.
 
My results with coated bullets is much different than the above posters. I use Bayou Bullets and sometimes ACME. I cannot scratch the finish with a fingernail. I just had a loading problem and I pulled 22 roll crimped bullets with an inertial puller. The bullets look new after loading, crimping, and pulling. I have shot about 1000 of them with no leading.
 
But how is that any different when done in two steps as opposed to in one? You are still gonna try and crimp above the cannelure. If you dies are set-up correctly, you are not going to have enough bullet travel when the crimp starts to deform the brass. At least not enough to go past the whole cannelure. If those cases are that long you get a crushed case doing it in one step, odds are you are going to get a bulged case in two. That brass too has to go somewhere. It goes out instead of down. Your final crimp is to the center of the cannelure, this gives you a margin of error. If you need more than that, you probably need to be more selective of your brass, or ease up on your crimp. For you boys with a progressive and enough stations, two steps is no more steps. Not so much for a SS. Again for heavy for caliber, or heavy recoiling loads in longer cases, there is a chance of crushing a case. In .357 and using a SS where you need another stroke for each round, the minuscule risk of a crushed case is well worth it when it comes to thousands of rounds. At least in my book.
I just trim all my 357 brass one time. It removes the long cases do I don't need to worry.
 
I do SS and have a lee turret set up for 38spl and another for 357 . I use the same xtreme bullet for both with a cannelure which i aim at the center of for little or no crimp. I shoot in the same blackhawk revolver cylinder at the low end of the powder scale for little recoil and I do not see any setback. Arthritis is my recoil checker. I just plink and this has met my needs , i don't use range pickup now and seperate my shells into about 4 head stamps. Maybe I'm just lucky, at one time for a short time i did pickup range shells. If I had a few odd balls left on length I would think seating would suddenly be outside the cannelure. I suspect not using range brass keeps me out of a lot of problems.
 
My results with coated bullets is much different than the above posters. I use Bayou Bullets and sometimes ACME. I cannot scratch the finish with a fingernail. I just had a loading problem and I pulled 22 roll crimped bullets with an inertial puller. The bullets look new after loading, crimping, and pulling. I have shot about 1000 of them with no leading.
I've had the same experience with Bayou and Blue Bullets and I think their coatings are different. It is suggested that when you set up to load coated bullets to pull a couple and make sure the coated is not getting scraped off during seating or crimping. I've never had a problem.
 
My advice is to buy plated. I bought a big box of two different brand "coated" bullets. ACME and Missouri. It seems like a fraud to me. I can scratch the coating off with my fingernail. They both leaded up my bore in less than 50 shots, though I did shoot them at higher than the velocity recommended because I didn't realize they had such a low limit. I set them aside and went back to plated bullets -- Berry's, RMR, and Speer TMJ. Occasionally I will find a good deal on jacketed bullets like XTP which I prefer even more but they usually cost a lot more. I was buying 158 grain plated bullets for 8 to 9 cents each. I don't get the coated bullet thing at all.
My experience with coated is just the opposite. Acme, Bayou, Missouri the guy I know that powder coats his own - all good. I do try and follow the velocity guidelines though.
 
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