Bullseye Pistol: Training tips thread

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Pistol Boxes and Spotting Scopes

Do most of you guys use those pistol boxes with the side lid that hinges up to the open position?

I see some people have a spotting scope mounted to the top of the lid when it is open. I know in DCM/CMP rifle people go to great lengths to position the scope so that the target can be checked without disrupting the shooting position too much. Is it the same in bullseye?

I've got a nice scope that is used for DCM rifle at 200-300 yards, but it is a large heavy thing and I'm not sure about stability if mounting on top of one of those pistol box lids. Plus it is probably overkill for 25-50 yards.
 
It took me a couple years to finally buy a BE box and scope. Evilbay. But my nephew just picked up a nice one from the CMP forum. By the time you add in all the hardware, it's not worth making one yourself. I think I saw a couple for sale on the Bullseye list recently.

Once you have a BE box, you'll wonder how you did so long without it. No different than an IDPA/IPSC shooter with an organized range bag. Or, a Pin shooter with a bin/tray. You'll have a safe place to clamp your guns. Accessible storage for ammo and tools. Integrated scope so you don't have to carry a mount/tripod.

You should be able to find a used box for less than $100. PM me for a link to a pretty good scope (no, you don't want your long range high power scope for BE), and a great mount for good prices. -up and runnin for less than $200.


Hey, I'm still curious. What range are you shooting at?

So much for making this thread a sticky. Slap my wrist, I've contributed to this thread waivering from its true topic -even though there is good information herein.

-Steve
 
Is there much value in using a .22 conversion on your .45 in order to get more frequent center-fire practice without breaking the bank for .45 ammo?
Click to expand...

For grip, sight alignment and trigger control, I'd say yes. But, it won't help with recoil management during sustained fire.

I shoot a .22 conversion on a 1911 frame in competition, and I've found it extremely helpful to have the same grip angle, trigger feel, etc. for both pistols. Both have flat mainspring houses, plain grips, long triggers, and so on.

And, as JackOfAllTrades mentioned, the box/scope setup is the way to go. The scope, for me, is essential in slow fire for verifying what the shots "feel" like. I can feel the difference between a 10 and an 8, but not always a 10 and a 9.
 
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A couple things I just learned this past week (this is my first season ever doing Bullseye, and my first time shooting in a structured environment, as I've joined the Metro Pistol League in Fairfax, VA):

If you can't hear the start buzzer (with targets that don't rotate to face you), the first salvo of shots coming from the other shooters is pretty good indication that the buzzer went off and that you should start pulling the trigger in timed- and rapid-fire =)

Also, don't neglect timed- and rapid-fire in your practice; I almost had a 4-shot string (rather than five) when my last shot went off right at the buzzer during one of the rapid-fire strings. Take your time to aim, but don't take too much time =)

Good tips in this thread, especially for beginners like me!
 
Wayne:

The Marvel conversion on a 1911 is a great package. I highly recommend it.

Air pistol is a good way to train sight alignment and a bit of trigger control. I also highly recommend it but make sure you get a good quality one. Don't spend less than $400 for a good AP. I spent $600 for my compress air pistol plus another $75 for a (filled) used scuba tank.
 
Speaking of Brian Zins, I like this workbook.

http://www.brianzins.com/USMCShooter.php

The first drills are shooting at blank targets...extremely helpful for focusing on sight alignment. I though it was a bit odd, but when my first group on a blank target was tighter than I could shoot at a real target, it was a real "ah ha!"

Buy lots of ammo though. It takes a lot of shots to get through each drill if you're a beginner like me.

-J.
 
I'd like to highlight something bdutton said earlier about confidence. At league this week, I felt shaky as all heck. Didn't feel steady, and I could see my arc of movement was bigger than normal when I lined up prior to the start. Don't know if it was physical (tired muscles) or mental (couldn't get the day out of my head) or what.

The first slow fire wasn't too bad, but it was taking longer than normal to get off each shot, and I knew I was going to be in trouble for timed and rapid if I kept going down that path.

This is where confidence and fundamentals makes a difference.

In effect, I "surrendered" to the shot process and trusted in my ability to move the trigger during timed and rapid fire. By accepting the arc of movement (even though it was worse than usual) and focusing on an uninterrupted trigger pull, I was able to get the shots off in a timely fashion and trust that they'd be where they were supposed to be.

Wound up with a pair of 290s (national match courses, .22 and .45) and I believe it was confidence that kept me from overthinking and fighting the increased arc of movement.
 
Thought I'd post this link on lubricating the 1911 just in case someone has not seen it before.
http://www.lava.net/~perrone/bullseye/oiling.html
Got to meet Ed at Camp Perry last year.
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Thanks for posting this, it brings up something that has always amazed me over all these years of shooting. And that is the seemingly lack of simple illustrated diagrams for lube points on the various firearms.

A person buys a new gun that they may not be familiar with, or a person buys their first gun and of course they want to maintain the firearm so they are interested in where the lube points are. I get asked this quite frequently and oftentimes the gun they have came with no manual, and if it did most of the manuals I've seen lack illustrated lube point diagrams.

I've found there are all kinds of resources for detailed breakdown procedures for many firearms, but trying to find something as simple as a lube point illustration seems like pulling teeth.

For example, just last week I had a person who just acuired an MKII ask me for a lube point diagram for this firearm, does anyone know where I could find such a thing? I'm not talking about breakdown or cleaning procedures per say, just a simple diagram like the one for .45's shown above.

Thanks
 
How much total time needed for a 2700 match?

I'm not talking about time for just the match but total time from the time you pull into the parking lot before the match to the time you pull out of the parking lot after the match? What kind of time investment are we talking about here?

Do these matches typically last through lunch? If so does everybody bring their own and eat at the range?

Is the trigger pull weight checked on competitors guns at these matches?

Are these individual matches or team matches? If team, how are teams selected or formed?

Thanks
 
The 2700s here start at 9:00 so I usually get to the range about 8:30. Travel time runs anywhere from one hour to three depending on where the match is. If we get started on time and there aren't a lot of alibis we're usually done between 3:30 and 4:00. That time includes a lunch break between the CF and .45 match that usually lasts anywhere from 45 minutes to an hour. I usually get out of town about 20 minutes after the match is over since we have to clean up targets, etc. and put things in order before we leave.

It's about half and half for the guys who bring a lunch and those that go out and get something during the break.

Matches in Dallas means I leave about 6:15 a.m. and get home about 6:15 p.m.

I've been to Regionals and State matches where they run the team match after the 2700 where you either pick your team or we draw lots. None of the regular matches here have any kind of fired or unfired team match. If it's the State match and we have guys from Colorado and Oklahoma shooting, I would rather get to pick the team, but it depends on the Match Director and how he/she wants to do it.

We've only weighed triggers for the CMP EIC match, since it is mandatory that everyone's pistol meets the weight requirement and you'll have guys show up from out of area.

Did I get everything?
 
What I'm working on now....and my latest tip.

Work on getting a good consistent "pre-load" on the trigger....especially for your Timed & Rapid fire segments. Very difficult (I'm learning) to get those shots off ACCURATELY in the allotted time (especially for Rapid) if you don't pre-load that trigger. Without the pre-load you will invariably jerk the trigger when site alignment has been achieved. Pre-loading allows you to (surprise) break the shot each time.....and do it quickly.
 
Here's another tip:

When first starting out, shoot iron sights. A red dot can be a bit distracting. Red Dots are designed for hunting so it is natural to focus on the target. The simplicity of the iron sights can help put focus on the alignment of the sights and trigger pull.

If you've been shooting a red dot for a long time and finding your scores are leveled out or maybe even gone down a bit, try switching to iron sights for a few weeks.
 
RE: wayne02

I use a 4 gun box from Tnb its all alloy has slide out tray for 4 guns its massive and weighs 18 pounds empy, I have mounted in it a KOWA 20x scope.

Question for everyone, do you guys use any left or non-dominate eye blocks? or any type of focusing device on your dominate eye? I have a block that goes on my left eye and I have just started using a focusing device on my left. Any thoughts?
 
My left eye is dominant.

I use a blocker over that eye and shoot right handed.

If I am shooting iron sights, I use an iris like this:

9778.jpg


Without it I can't see crap.
 
Training Tip #4: Rapid fire training. 1 shot and 2 shot drills. Have a friend operate the turning targets, or call the commands or get an mp3 player with this the range commands and try to get off 1 good shot immediately after the command to fire is given. Then do the same to get off two well aimed shots... then 3... then 4... etc.
Click to expand...

Guess I need to work on this.....rapid fire is still giving me fits. Three bad targets for every good one right now. I think it's just a matter of "putting in the time". I work, I have kids and it does not leave much time for practice. I'm getting maybe two times a week for a total of about 3 hours.....makes it though to master trigger control during rapid fire. Hard to practice rapid fire when you are dry firing at home at 10:00 at night. Does not help that my gun has been at Ruger for repairs (firing pin dented the chamber on my Mark III) for over two weeks now and I'm using a friends backup Mitchell (High Standard clone).......let me tell you the Mitchell is no High Standard.
 
Dose It Make Any Differance If You Use A Round Nose Bullet, Wad Cutter, Or A Semi Wad Cutter In A Center Fire For 50 Yard Competion.
 
Got A Question About The Ruger Mark 2 Target Model. Should It Shoot A 6 Inch 3 Shot Group After 20 Rounds Or Is The Barrel Bad In It.
 
Generally speaking, you can use whatever bullet that produces the best accuracy at 50 yards. It happens that semi wadcutter or the nosler/zero hollowpoints make for very good 50 yard loads depending on the powder used. If the centerfire is the 32, then wadcutter may be the only option and you will probably need a custom barrel to shoot them well.

If the ruger is bench rested at 50 yards and you are getting that kind of group you may have one of three problems.

1. Bad ammo
2. Bad barrel/gun
3. Bad hold

If you are ransome resting the ruger, you have one of the first two problems. Test fir emore ammo and have someone else hold the gun for a change if you are just bench resting it.
 
Had my first ever outdoor shoot today (local league). I was using a friends gun because mine has been at Ruger for almost 6 weeks getting fixed. I had never used his gun before (a High Standard). Had two failures to eject during Timed Fire (one on each clip) but still managed to get the shots off in time....had to rush. Ended up with a 262. Overall I was happy with that, but my slow fire hurt me the most.....an 82 :(
 
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