Buying a Model 10, looking for advice

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Check with J&G Sales. They have occasional batches of M10, 15, 64, 67 LE trades at reasonable prices. Couple years ago I got a 3" M10 from them. Couple months ago I got a 4" M10. Both HB, both carried a lot, shot a little. 4" was $179.95. Not a bad price for a gun that cost $65.00 brand new.
 
I'll go with those who pushed the Model 64, which is the Model 10 in stainless.

Or the 65 which is the .357 mag version of the 64. We got a couple of police trade-in 65's with 4 inch bull barrels for $280 each plus shipping/ffl from Gunsamerica in 2008. One was in great shape, the other was all scratched but mechanically sound.

Better to buy one from a store or individual in person, so you can do the Revolver Checkout as outlined in the sticky on top of this sub-forum.
 
I'd get a target weight barrel model if it were me. The pencil weight models, while they seem to be rebounding in popularity, simply aren't as smooth shooting as the heavy barrel counterparts. My .38 +P handloads in my 10-5 pencil barrel have more muzzle climb than my Rossi M720 .44 special w/3" full lug barrel.
 
I hate to be the guy who doesn't recommend to order straight from the menu, but I would really consider a Model 10 or Model 13 with a 3 inch (heavy) barrel. You won't regret it. It will do what a four inch barrel will do but the balance is perfect and the target acquisition speed is superb with that length.
 
The 3 Inch is easier for IWB Carry also, than the 4 Inch tends to be.


3 Inch is probably the best of all possible Worlds.
 
Two guys got into a bidding war at the end.
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That happens a lot more then you think. I watched a mint/like new 1930's Military & Police with a hardly popular 6" barrel (no box or papers) get run up to $1,200 + fees and charges... :what:

At the time it was about 3 times over market value... :uhoh:
 
I've had that happen with motorcycle parts. Just be patient and wait until you're the only one bidding because all the other keeners have gotten theirs. It took me a year but I got a set of transmission gears for one of my bikes for about a fifth of what the others before me paid. Did the same with a carb for the same bike.

Life may be short but items for auction are like busses. Another nice one will be along shortly. Or with patience you may run into a local deal like I did with my S&W 17. A shooting buddy literally told me I should buy it because I liked blued guns and he liked stainless and the 17 was messing up his Feng Shui... :D
 
I agree with BCRider...

At any auction, within your own mind, establish what the maximum you will bid is, and thereafter don't cross the line. If you get outbid (which often happens to me), let whatever it is go, and wait for another chance in the future. Sooner or later you'll get what you want for what you're willing to pay.
 
As long as you're buying a model 10, buy a good looking one, like this!
(gratuitous pic opportunity)
Model10-5-1.jpg
It's a 10-5 tapered barrel, $325 on Gunbroker last winter. Not cheap, but it's in great shape, mid 70's built.
I've since added a set of Ahrends retro target grips in walnut that I oil finished.
I've been very satisfied with all four of my Gunbroker purchases.
But I'll agree that with heavy loads a target weight barrel has less recoil.
 
Hey guys,

Just a follow up, I went with Old Fuff's advice and picked up the M&P. She may be a little older and the blue is wearing in places but she sure looks fine, much better than the listing pictures :D

sw2kq.jpg

(more pictures here:http://img39.imageshack.us/g/sw1w.jpg/)

Thanks for your advice everyone!

Would it be best to avoid re-bluing or otherwise restoring this gun and just keep it in its original shape?
 
I suspect that piece of junk :rolleyes: :evil: has a "S" or "C" prefix serial number, and it appears to be an early short-action. The stocks alone are worth $75 to $100 to a collector who is looking for a set. The half-moon style front sight was changed around 1952 to a ramp profile with the back serrated. Unfortunately it doesn't have any of the later cost-cutting improvements :rolleyes:.

I wouldn't have it refinished. A quality job would cost more then half what's the gun's worth, and anything else would ruin it. Then too, I always remind myself that a perfect finish does not make it a better shooter.

What you do is go to almost any shooting range with that long-barreled, doggy looking junker, with a box or two of .38 Special 148-grain midrange wadcutters. Run the target out to 50 feet or better depending on if the range is indoor or outside. Get next to some young feller with one of the new high-cap polymer pistols...

And when the targets are checked absolutely humiliate him...

The Old Fuff is evil... absolutely evil... :D
 
I forgot to mention that, the serial is C190171--surprising about the value of the stocks, they are a bit worn. Can't wait to take her to the range. Need to introduce her to my girlfriend too as she will be our home defense gun once we move in together.

The seller said it was a 1954 gun but I posted in the DOB thread to check. Thanks again Fuff
 
The seller said it was a 1954 gun but I posted in the DOB thread to check.
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He could be right. It might have taken S&W awhile to use up older 6" barrels that were still in stock, and they'd use them up, not dump 'um as junk. Dates on changes are always approximate.

The particular style of stocks were used from about 1953 through '67, again give or take. If they are original to the gun they will be serial numbered on the inside. In those days stocks were individually fitted to each frame, and therefore numbered to it. Not so today of course... :(
 
Just be careful that no BG ends up within grabbing distance of that long barrel, as far as HD is concerned. Stress this to your GF as well.
 
SD Ammo for Pre-10?

I also have an old Pre-10 (dates to about 1905) that I am learning to love to shoot at the range, and I'm also curious as the OP asked in #13 if there is a good, safe, SD ammo to keep on-hand for it. I have been told that due to its age, I should only shoot all-lead, non +P ammo in it; so is there anything that fits that bill?
 
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Just be careful that no BG ends up within grabbing distance of that long barrel, as far as HD is concerned. Stress this to your GF as well.
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Noted... will have to learn more about weapon retention. Still trying to figure out where the best places to do firearms training are around here (few miles east of Seattle, WA)

edit: Just learned from the age thread that the gun is a few years earlier than I thought :)
 
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mikelj:

It will come as a shock to some, but back in 1905 there were bad guys, that got shot by good guys, using the standard .38 Special load of the day, which made them into good/bad guys :eek:. (Of course it sometimes worked the other way around too).

Anyway I suggest that since your revolver doesn't have a heat treated cylinder, you consider using .38 Special 148-grain mid-range wadcutters. This is by no means a high pressure load, and roughly duplicates the .38 Long Colt and .38 S&W cartridges, but with a much better bullet profile.

What is more likely to stop an attack is not so much the latest super-zinger/hollow point, but rather placing the bullet precisely in the opponent's body where there is a vital organ. When it stops working the assault will also.

Of course there are better handgun/ammunition options, but I'm going to presume that for whatever reason those choices aren't available to you. Take heart in the fact if your old revolver did the job back when, it probably can do the same today. ;)
 
Geeze, I wouldn't let mine go for under $400.00!!!



l_01910317ad4d4da38c6b228dd5a5fa5f.png

108 heavy barrel shoots like a target gun.....bluing is about 90%.....and I love it! BTW it's a 4in which you CAN find a holster for with out and extra inch on the bottom of it.
 
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