Calipers

If you are only reloading and not building a gun, calipers are all you need. As stated above, dials don't have batteries to go bad, but digital does offer certain conveniences.

As far as calibration, I have 2 sets of feeler gauges. Wipe them clean and the "jaws" of the caliper before measuring. My gauges and calipers are in sync with each other. I have a 1" mic to measure case head expansion, but my free plastic calipers from a distributor 10 yrs ago, at work, and my Harbor Freight digital reads the same as my mic.

So, for me, and my reloading measurements, a set of calipers is all I need. Take a set of feeler gauges with you when you go shopping.
Be careful with feeler gauges. Most I have seen are nowhere close to accurate.

Unless you spend $70 or more for a machinist quality set, the junk you buy at the auto parts store is just that- junk.
 
My two bits on this that is not worth a couple quarters.

I use something that is "good enough". I am not trying to land a man on the moon in 1968. I am trying to hit a gong at a couple hundred yards max. Personally I don't think for reloading you need something that exact. If you do I guess I am real lucky or an amazing good shot. If you doubt me buy some "match" ammo, measure the entire box. Length of the entire round. Then pull all the rounds down. Measure each bullet including weight. Measure the case length, weight, internal volume.

I have a feeling you will find readings that range quite a bit. Point is it will be in the range from the lightest to the most heavy as well as every other measurement will be inside the range of a cheap caliper. I was going to do the long range thing a while ago and those F class crazy people told me they don't bother with a micrometer....why bother is what I was told. They do get pretty anal about neck tension and charge weights, but a few thou on the seating depth was good for the couple guys I talked to about it. Seems metal changes when it heats up and cools off.

And for the record I use digital, and own a "good" analog that I don't really use anymore. Too hard to see those little lines on the dial.
 
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I don't reload but I used to work in a machine shop. If you use calipers or micrometers get a set of inch blocks

I am just now starting to learn to play with metal. A small Grizzly lathe, and I am looking at a small mill. Just something I always wanted to learn. It is just in a "hobby" setting and as I understand this can go as far as you want it to go. People however seem to think they "need" to take it to this level when what they are doing they only need to go to that level. Is it true, true enough for what I am going to make. Each thing you want to do will have a "standard" you need to be inside of. Does not stop people however from going well past it to get cool toys (I like cool toys)
 
Mitutoyo digital calipers for me. I have been weighing and measuring things for my living for many years. Never found a better set of calipers. And..the cheap Chinese calipers of 20 or so years ago worked great too. The new General calipers are not so good in terms of precision. I have a set stuck way down in a tool box that I will not use again. Yeah, I have a couple of micrometers and some hole gauges but I go for the digital calipers first and then decide if I actually need a better measurement. Usually not.
 
And just because a caliper reads correctly in one spot, doesn't mean it reads correctly up and down the scale.
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Very true. I have a pair of Harbor Freight that is off 0.001"-0.002" when your in the x.x62" area, all the way up the scale. If you check the main increments it's dead on. The only way I found thisnout was that I had knocked over my pin gauge set 0.060"-0.250" and decide it would be faster to measure than to try to read the small printing on the pins. So now the HF set is used only for non-critical applications that a straight edge ruler could be used for..
 
I've got a MAC old school style (made in China) (my Starret one I use at work is also made in China) dial caliper and it's pretty good.
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Ok guys, I really absorbed your collective wisdom on measuring and appreciate all your well-made points.

I did buy a Mitutoyo digital caliper for my birthday. (Wife says she did)
It is far more accurate that I will likely need for reloading, agreed. But, I like the increased speed of reading digitally and inches & mm on the same tool.
I have my pawn shop no name dial caliper in inches for easy stuff.
This new one is right for me and an heirloom for my son, as were the micrometers handed down to me.
👍
 
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I would take a dial caliper over a digital one any day.

Batteries tend to run out when I need them most; like 9pm on Friday loading for Saturday's shoot.
Because having a spare $1.00 battery or two would be difficult….??

I do agree on your preference of a dial caliper, tho…… :thumbup:
 
Because having a spare $1.00 battery or two would be difficult….??

I do agree on your preference of a dial caliper, tho…… :thumbup:
I just ordered a ten pack for mine ($4.97)

Yep, for some of us keeping batteries for them is a minor problem compared to the ease of reading with old eyes.
 
My Starrett digital calipers use a CR2032 battery which is the same battery that most red dot, micro red dot, and illuminated scopes use. So I always have spares on hand. I have one drawer of my machinists tool box dedicate to batteries for my red dots, scopes and weapon lights.
 
My Starrett digital calipers use a CR2032 battery which is the same battery that most red dot, micro red dot, and illuminated scopes use. So I always have spares on hand. I have one drawer of my machinists tool box dedicate to batteries for my red dots, scopes and weapon lights.
Those CR2032 batteries also work in current Chamberlain/Liftmaster and Genie garage door opener remotes. I've been a garage door tech for 20 years, so I typically have a dozen or more in the work truck.

My Mitutoyo set takes an LR44, I think. I haven't had to worry about it in the year or so that I've had them. I only expect minute of vital zone out of my rifles, so I don't see the need to get too precise with my reloads. I do have a friend that will sit there and pick one kernel at a time out of a powder drop on his crazy expensive scale. I think it's a Sartorius or something like that. I'm perfectly happy with my RCBS Chargemaster Link and a Truweigh Echo if I'm using the manual powder drop. Everybody has what works for them, and that's all that matters. I have another buddy who's perfectly happy with his Harbor Freight caliper.
 
I started with a vernier caliper that came with a small magnifier. When enough money became available I moved up to a dial caliper and eventually another to save foot steps. No digital anything available then. I still have both, check them with a standard now and then, and they still get the job done. I eventually bought a HF digital that I paid 11 bucks for. It's still going and every time I check it for accuracy it's right on. It is easy on batteries and what I grab if it needs to close but not perfect quick measuring.

I have Starrett and Mitutoyo micrometers going up to 6 inches and when I want sure enough dependable accuracy the correct size is used.
 
A good set of calipers is worth the money and digital calipers are an advantage when reloading.
get a good set of Mitutoyo calipers and you won’t be sorry.
Be aware that if you buy them from Amazon, you could very well get a knock off instead of an original Mitutoyo.
 
Digitals are fine for reloading. You pretty well know what the measurments should be before you take them. If something is off with the measuring instrument whether it be a digital caliper, mic, or reloading scale you are going to catch it. As far as the decades of me being a manucturing/machine shop supervisor we always verified the first check with a digital with a second check with an analog measuring device.
 
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