can i use wd-40 if out of rem oil?

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No. WD-40 is a Water Displacer, hence the WD in the name. It does nothing to lubricate.

The best lube I've found is a 50/50 mix of ATF and 10w-30. Well, maybe not the best, but it's dang good and far cheaper than any gun specific lube.
 
Could work in a pinch, it's a water displacer more than a lube.

I would rather use some 3 in 1 oil, the white and black bottle with the red cap that everyone seems to have or some motor oil.
 
You can use whatever you want but WD40 is not a lube (maybe a temporary one but it quickly evaporates into a sticky gummy mess) and does not provide any protection against corrosion. I'm with Sol - I would use 3 in one oil or motor oil before I would use WD40.:scrutiny: I don't allow WD 40 in my shop. It's only good for drying out a wet distributor in an emergency. The best readily available gun lube I have ever found is Dexron automatic transmission fluid. A 1 qt. bottle will last you for years. Motor oil does not provide very much protection against corrosion either but it's far better than WD40.
 
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Ive cleaned guns with carb or brake cleaner and lubed with synthetic motor oil. I still use motor oil. If its good enough for million dollar vehicles, its good enough for my $600 guns.
 
WD40 is good for what it was made for, getting rusty parts to move again.
WD40 is supposed to be good for arthritic joints, too.
I use either thin gun oil or ATF.
 
If your gun gets wet, wipe it down with WD-40, then lube with a good light oil.
I used WD-40 for years on mine and my Father's guns to clean them. Never a problem with the gunk some claim. But then, I didn't leave it on the guns, and oiled properly after cleaning. I still have those guns decades later, in perfect condition.
And contrary to popular myth, WD-40 contains NO 'fish oil'....... Health claims are dubious and not without some risk.
 
No. If there's one thing the Remington people hate, it's WD-40. At Rem Armorers' School in Illion, they told us of a Rem 700 that went off and hit the plaintiff's foot. The factory examined the firearm and it took some big guys to separate the stock from the action. The owner had sprayed down his 700 with WD-40 for years and never took it to a gunsmith for servicing. Eventually a film built up, disabled the safety and allow the jarring of the rifle to discharge.
 
When I worked in the LGS,you could always pick out a gun that had been coated with WD-40. Gummy mess.

There was a VERY detailed write up about gun oil/lubes in a thread here maybe a year or two ago. Hornady One Shot was best overall out of about forty common products. Rem Oil (which I had used for years) ranked towards the bottom.

If you can find a Rig Rag, those seem to work well IMO.
 
I've used WD-40 with great success since the early '60s. However, I've not used it as a lubricant. I've had great success wiping down guns, scopes, fishing rods and reels and about anything I didn't want to rust. In a more corrosive environment than I'm usually in such as salty air, there are better products.

If left to accumulate, it will become a gummy mess over time.
 
Well buffed Johnson's paste wax on the outside and a 50/50 mix of Dexron ATF and kerosene for everything else.
 
I have guns that have been treated with that evil poison since it came on the market and have yet to see the crud and gunk that is always described.
Any oil or lubricant left to puddle will accumulate dust and other particals the ultimately will turn into sludge if left unattended. I'm probably on the low end of the scale when it come to gun cleaning but I've never witnessed a malfunction due to sludge unless it was on a used gun and then it's anybody's guess as to how it was maintained.
The only harmful thing in WD40 is an abundance of opinion. There are better products and most would challenge the average gun owner to spend more than $50 in their lifetime without the cheap garage mixture cooked up by members.
Take a good look at your own personal needs, do you live in a dry climate, coastal, cold, hot all these will have an effect on lube performance as well as corrosion resistance.
Today I use WD40 mostly on wipe down cloths I keep in my safes, I just spray them down once in a while and wipe guns after use or handling.
 
No. If there's one thing the Remington people hate, it's WD-40. At Rem Armorers' School in Illion, they told us of a Rem 700 that went off and hit the plaintiff's foot. The factory examined the firearm and it took some big guys to separate the stock from the action. The owner had sprayed down his 700 with WD-40 for years and never took it to a gunsmith for servicing. Eventually a film built up, disabled the safety and allow the jarring of the rifle to discharge.
Hunting weapons do often get wet, so at least to get the bulk of the water out to prevent rusting right away, WD doesn't seem like a bad idea. But, again, it needs to be properly serviced when time is available.
 
One thing to remember with WD-40 (and other thin/creeping oils, solvents, rust inhibitors) is that it can creep and find its way into primers/loaded ammo, causing dud primers or possible squib load situations.

As for WD-40 in general, many other available products do a better job at anything WD can do.
 
I'd use it in a pinch. It wouldn't be my long term choice but it's certainly a lubricant and provides rust protection.

I don't know how anyone who has used WD40 could think it's not a lubricant. Here's an FAQ from their website that addresses the oft repeated myth that WD40 isn't a lubricant:

A QUESTION OF LUBRICATION

Myth: WD-40® Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant.

Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40® stands for Water Displacement, WD-40® Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.


http://wd40.com/cool-stuff/myths-legends-fun-facts
 
WD-40 displaces moisture, does not conduct electricity and is a good penetrant. A good product when used right. However, it does get sticky when it dries out. I have used my wife's sewing machine oil and it seemed to work well. I think it might be a little thinner than gun oil, but it does stay slick.
 
WD40 is good for what it was made for, getting rusty parts to move again.

WD-40 was developed for the Navy to dry out electrical panels, electric motors, etc. It displaces the moisture and allows the circuits to work normally again. Over the years it has been used for many other things, none really well though. There are better gun cleaning solvents and lubricants and better things for getting rusty parts moving. But in a pinch it can be used for those things.

No. If there's one thing the Remington people hate, it's WD-40. At Rem Armorers' School in Illion, they told us of a Rem 700 that went off and hit the plaintiff's foot. The factory examined the firearm and it took some big guys to separate the stock from the action. The owner had sprayed down his 700 with WD-40 for years and never took it to a gunsmith for servicing. Eventually a film built up, disabled the safety and allow the jarring of the rifle to discharge.

Partly true, and one big reason I don't advise using it on firearms, especially Remingtons. The original 1946-2006 Remington trigger used a connector between the trigger and sear. The connector is not needed and has been known to disengage the sear with no trigger pull even on brand new, perfectly clean rifles with trigger pulls adjusted in double digits. Remingtons own people discovered the problem in 1946 and designed a new trigger without the connector but the design wasn't adopted for 60 years.

If the trigger mechanism is gummed up with anything it increases the possibility of the connector failing. It does not disable the safety, in fact the Remington safety works just fine. In virtually all cases the sear is released at some point as the gun is handled while the safety is in the "SAFE" position. The safety is the only thing holding back the firing pin. When the user moves the safety to the "FIRE" position the gun discharges with no pull of the trigger. It is often confused as a safety problem when it is really a trigger problem.

Remington has been covering this up for almost 70 years, but the documentation is overwhelming. I'm not surprised that they would not be 100% accurate with the facts in their armorers school.

Other trigger designs, including the Remington designs without the connector never have this issue come up. It is a combination of a flawed design made worse by using improper lubricants.
 
Many years ago, I asked a Gunsmith about using WD40 in my firearms. He told me WD40 has kept him in business for a long time. He explained that WD40 will dry out over time and will seize up small springs and parts, particularly the parts in rifle triggers.

There are much better products out there today that will not dry out and gum up.

WD40 can be used for a lot of things, I've used a lot of it over the years, but I just would be careful not using it on parts that have small or delicate mechanisms.
 
WD-40 gets used for a lot of things on the farm but firearms isn't one of them.

A new trick (at least for me) is I am going to drain the last few drops of Mobile One synthetic motor oil next time (was going to be this weekend but it won't quit raining long enough) I change it in my truck into a small bottle for use when lubing my firearms. A few ounces will go along way while saving money on oil marketed for guns.
 
Never once seen WD evaporate into a sticky gummy mess or seize up small springs and parts on anything.
It'll do if you have no oil. Mind you, Rem oil is pricey and it's the same thing. It's not oil at all either. No oil in Rem oil according to the MSDS.
 
I've seen some gunk, but I still use it on guns that I don't care to take apart. Two guns fall into that category, both rim fires. A Marlin 7000 and a Ruger 22/45. Both get shot a lot, both eventually gunk up and stop feeding after a thousand rounds or so. I blast off the gunk with WD 40 until it runs clear, let it dry, and then give a drop or two of Hoppe's clear mineral oil. (I know that is not what they call it, but that is what it is.

The guns work, and it takes 20 seconds to perform this function.
 
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