Can rust spread by contact?

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killertom

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Hi Guys, I have a bit of a silly question really, but it is something that has been bugging me for years.

Lets assume a situation where I'm scrubbing a gun barrel with some rust in it. After I'm done I use the same cleaning rod to clean another barrel, which can deposit some rust particles in the bore of the gun. Can this cause any issues? Can rust particles deposited on an otherwise clean surface cause further rusting?

Thanks in advance!

Tom
 
this is a good question, yes it can in some instances. it depends on three things.
1. the steel of the barrel, some corrosion resistant steel it may make a dark spot that can lead to rust. (corrosion resistant steel is just that, like stainless, it will rust and corrode.)
2. weather or not you use a good rest resistant oil, I use hoppies #9, Remington oil is a good one, this puts a air and moisture tight seal on the seal which prevents rust.
3. I do not use one cleaning jig on more than one rifle, I have a cleaning jig, or jigs for each rifle. they are not expensive, and a small price to pay to keep deposits from one firearm to another, not that it really hurts anything as long as you clean them first, just the way I am.
 
Can rust spread by contact? Like ebola? (sorry, bad humor)

Rust is oxidized metal (or exposed to chlorides). It is not "contagious", doesn't spread by contact, though sometimes rust particles will loosen and staining other parts, making it looking like it's spreading.

But, while rust isn't itself contagious, the same environment will cause other things to rust, of course (oxygen and too much humidity, or contact with chemicals).

Also, if there are any contaniments mixed with rust particles that were causing the rust (salts, other corrosive residue), its those contaniments that may cause additional rust (not the rust particles themselves).
 
Theoretically it could depending upon what caused the rust in the first place. I've known people to clean barrels with chlorine based products which could be transferred from one barrel to the next. You need to neutralize these products when finished using them. This could only happen if you used an uncleaned brush or sop without "washing it out first." For example, many muzzleloaders have soft iron barrels and are prone to rust easily, or the chlorine solvents are left in the barrel for long periods of time.
 
"...weather or not..." What? Any oil will keep moisture out. And rust is never contagious. You don't need to worry about getting your Ladysmith preggers by using a jag from an Anaconda either.
 
Rust is a catalyst for further rust. Yes, it can spread. Keep your tools and storage area rust free.
Mauserguy

Agreed.

Using a rusty brush on clean steel wil deposit some of the rust on the clean steel. If not removed, that is where the clean steel will start to rust.
 
Read this:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rust

Rust is a chemical reaction of iron and oxygen in the presence of water. "Rust" is oxidized iron. Simply putting a particle of rust on a piece of iron (steel as it is iron based) will not start the chemical reaction as rust is at the tail end of the reaction, not the beginning.

This all happens at the molecular level.

You can transfer conditions that hasten it, such as cleaning chemicals that have rust in it, that makes it "appear" that the rust spread itself. But rust is not an oxidizing agent.
 
I have worked steel for almost twenty years, I built rail road bridges and worked every type of steel you can think of, I had to take clases on steel that all we did was study the oxidation process and the matimatical equation that describes them. if you put rusty steel on clean steel it will cause the clean steel to rust. if you brush lose rusty corrosion on clean steel, it will cause it to rust. always clean your rifle cleaning supplies well before reusing them. if you find small spots of rust, the best I have found is flitz metal pollish. put a small amount on the area and rub it in gentaly with 000 steel wool, then wipe clean and add a light coat of a good oil.:cool:
 
"iron oxide is hard and abrasive."

Do not tell jewelers.
Rouge is powdered iron oxide.
Use on gold for its LOW abrasion characteristics.
 
I believe rust can spread through contact with water, lol. Sorry couldn't resist. On a serious note keeping my guns lightly oiled with a dehumidifier (heating rod) in the safe has kept them rust free. Also be sure to wipe off any fingerprints on metal.
 
Rust can't spread, but what caused the rust can. If a shooter fires corrosive primers, and then cleans the barrel, the cleaning patch or brush can pick up corrosive salt from the barrel and deposit it in another barrel or on some other surface, like the outside of the barrel.

Jim
 
Thanks for all the replies, guys, truth be told I'm extremely paranoid when it comes to rust and I can obsess on even the smallest things, such as this when maintaining my weapons.

All the answers are highly appreciated!
 
The easiest and most simple answer is no.
Putting iron oxide on iron will not cause it to lose any electrons to oxygen. You need other factors to cause rust, but iron oxide is not one of them.
 
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iron oxide= rust. if you put rust particles on clean steel it will continue to oxidize, and will penetrate into the clean steel, unless there is a water and air tight barrier between the two. a good non detergent oil, is one of the best barriers there are. such as tanning steel. also known as heat treated steel. you heat steel to nearly red hot, use a rag dipped in transmission fluid and rub the hot steel. this will darken the steel, and will bake a small amount of the oil into the steel, which will help prevent rust for several years.

such as hot bluing which is a form of powder coat, you dust the metal with a ion charged powder and bake it in an oven for a few hours. the powder is baked into the steel, forming an air and water tight barrier.

the point is that if you do get rust on your firearm, is to treat it right away, and get a barrier of some kind on it a.s.a.p.

just a note, the oil on your skin, and if you have city water the chlorine and the chloride in the water in a natural oxidizer. if you have well water, the iron in your water is an oxidizer.:cool:
 
scottbird said:
...such as hot bluing which is a form of powder coat, you dust the metal with a ion charged powder and bake it in an oven for a few hours. the powder is baked into the steel, forming an air and water tight barrier....

False. Not even remotely close.
~~~~~~~~~~~
Hot bluing of guns is done in a heated bath of salts dissolved in water, not with an ion charged powder baked in an oven. Pretty, but not a very effective means of protecting steel from rusting.
There may be some non gun related process used in steel working that you call hot bluing, but it ain't for guns.
 
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iron oxide= rust. if you put rust particles on clean steel it will continue to oxidize, and will penetrate into the clean steel, unless there is a water and air tight barrier between the two. a good non detergent oil, is one of the best barriers there are. such as tanning steel. also known as heat treated steel. you heat steel to nearly red hot, use a rag dipped in transmission fluid and rub the hot steel. this will darken the steel, and will bake a small amount of the oil into the steel, which will help prevent rust for several years.

such as hot bluing which is a form of powder coat, you dust the metal with a ion charged powder and bake it in an oven for a few hours. the powder is baked into the steel, forming an air and water tight barrier.

the point is that if you do get rust on your firearm, is to treat it right away, and get a barrier of some kind on it a.s.a.p.

just a note, the oil on your skin, and if you have city water the chlorine and the chloride in the water in a natural oxidizer. if you have well water, the iron in your water is an oxidizer.:cool:
There are so many things wrong with that statement I don't even know where to start.

OP,

If you're truly worried about rust control the environment. Chose wisely where and how you store your firearms. Provide them with a protectant such as a lubricant or wax.
 
so many things wrong, well I must be doing something right as I hold 13 certificates in steel working, and not just the book work, it took me 16 years of work to earn them, so if that is so wrong, than you need to talk to the united steel workers, they are the ones to certify me, including heat treating, and hot bluing of construction steel. I have done both several times, and I am also nationally certified in steel which takes at the least of 12 years in the field. I suppose now a reamer is a drill bit too.

might be disabled now, but that does not mean I did not work.
 
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And yet you continue to post incorrect information.

Iron turns into Rust (iron III oxide) do to Oxygen and Water.
Iron is Reduced (gives an electron) to oxygen.

So putting rust on iron in a low humidity environment, or one lacking oxygen, will not oxidize the iron.
This is because the rust plays no role in the oxidation process!

Explain to me scientifically how this is even possible?!

You then go on to call Iron a Oxidizer when in the previous process it is the Reductant.
Iron is not, at all a Oxidizer. The only reason it's in well water is because it's one of the most abundant materials in the Earth.

Yes Chlorine is an Oxidizer, because it kills water born bacteria that carry diseases.

You may well have worked with steel for that long, and I'm sure your craftsmanship was wonderful. However you have shown you do not understand the processes behind the reactions nor given true statements on how they work.
 
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what is rust? oxidized steel. when is steel completely oxidized? when steel is completely oxidized it breaks down into tiny grains of sand like material, similar to the ore it started from, not actual ore, just looks similar. this is called final oxidation.

if you walk out to your truck and it has rust over the fender wells and a piece breaks off. you inspect it, it will look like several folds of metal, if you break it in half you see what appears to be layers, and it is, it is layers of oxidation.

now this steel has not reached final oxidation, there is still steel there, and if you were to put this piece of oxidized steel onto a clean sheet of steel and leave it there for a few days, you will find that the clean steel is rusted in the area of the oxidized steel, this is called transference. seeing as how the oxidization process is still ongoing it is an Hygroscopy. it has the ability to atract water. the rust, or the oxide now has the ability to pull moisture from the air, like salt. and we know what happens to steel when it meets water and air.

the chemical reaction of the oxizidation of steel is acidic, like coke a cola. coke if put on a painted surface will eat paint, as will the continued oxidation of steel process. if you put that piece of steel from your trucks fender well on a piece of painted steel, as the process of oxidation continues it will slowly eat through the pain and into the steel.

now if you find final oxidization a piece of steel that can not be broken down any more, resembles ore, red dirt like substance, than no, it is done, but most you find will be partial, still having some steel in it.

had to look up my notes, the equation to steel oxidization,

4e- + 4H+(aq) + O2(aq) --> 2H2O(l)

not enough time to compleatly explain the equation, but you can look it up.

I opologize to you FieldTester, I got mad and formed an opion and reacted badly, and for that I apologize, but instead of saying someone is all wrong, first ask them to explain themselves.:)
 
Scott,

I'm just going to have to agree to disagree here.

But at least we're both in agreement that the OP needs to remove the rust, treat any exposed steel, keep his firearms lubed and protected, and store in a non humid area.
 
that is true, if you are like me, and not able to afford a gun safe and do not have an are to store your guns in a non humid area, I like hoppe's #9 oil, or remington oil, a good coat will last a few months, just no fingerprints.

I am not at all saying hoppe's or remington oil is the best, there are several good oils, I like them because they do well, and fit my budget.

also if I am going to store a gun for a long period of time, I will clean the firearm with a mild degreaser, wipe it down with clean bottled water, dry it, and give it a good coat in turtle wax paste wax. why turtle wax, cause that is what I use on my car. this will give you a good seal for six to eight months. I do clean the firearm before firing as the heat of rapid fireing can melt the wax.
 
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thanks for the link, that is cool, I am going to switch to the hoppe's gun oil, it is about the same price as the #9 oil. you should post that link as a new thread, a lot of people may enjoy the info
 
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