Cap and ball reamers?

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Rattus58

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I am the proud recipient of 6 cylinders that actually fit my Pietta. I don't know what they are from but I do want to make sure that after reading all the issues of accuracy, that my Pietta target 44 be accurate and would like to ream out my cylinders. I know I could probably open up the forward section and ok with a typical revolver reamer, but is there something that pilots through the nipple or similar idea... without ruining threads and such... :grin:

Aloha in advance and sorry if this is answered somewhere already.
 
The piloted hand reamers from Brownells will self align without any difficulties. Buy one with 100% confidence that it'll do the job without difficulty.

Willie

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Have you test fired it yet for accuracy? Also has the forcing cone been cut yet? When you look down the barrel with a light, does each chamber align with the barrel?, or is there a slight miss alignment. Usually a forcing cone job works wonders.
 
Haven't fired it yet. It's my next to next project... My first is making a circa 91 White barrel fit a really screwed up Boyds thumbhole stock (now I know why it was so cheap). Drilling, bedding, and shaping required.. but should be neat when done. My next is a 45 pistol to complete and then my prize... but I'm in possession of 6 steel cylinders besides the original now that I can see have "anamolies" visually. So far they seem to line up, but haven't gotten to that level of tinkering.

Can you cut the forcing cone yourself if it's necessary? :)

Aloha.. :cool:
 
yes you can cut the forcing cone yourself, but you will need the tool to do it. I bought mine from Brownells over 15 yrs ago and it was well worth the investment if you are going to play with revolvers. Many gunsmiths will do it for about 25.00.
 
yes you can cut the forcing cone yourself, but you will need the tool to do it. I bought mine from Brownells over 15 yrs ago and it was well worth the investment if you are going to play with revolvers. Many gunsmiths will do it for about 25.00.
Thanks... I'll check them out!

Aloha.. :cool::)
 
Hi, Willie,

Can you point me (us) at a Brownell's reamer that would do what the OP wants on a percussion cylinder? I thought I checked pretty closely in their catalog.

Jim
 
I have used the .45 caliber throating reamer on a number of "44" cap & ball revolvers quite successfully. (they really are .45 caliber with .451-.452 groove diameter barrels) I also bought the pilot package but found that some cylinders are so undersize that I needed to make my own pilot. I also found that reducing the pilot's length a bit is helpful, particularly with rebated cylinders like the 1860 Colt. Here is the link to the Brownell's page:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...olver-cylinder-throating-reamer-prod7700.aspx
 
Jim K:

Curator has shown the tools I use. They are self aligning to the cylinder. I've not needed to reduce the pilot diameters, but then again I have only used them on Uberti's. I must confess that I never measured the cylinder diameters prior to reaming so can't offer any numbers to compare to anything else. In any event, these are the tools that you need.


Willie

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I have used the .45 caliber throating reamer on a number of "44" cap & ball revolvers quite successfully. (they really are .45 caliber with .451-.452 groove diameter barrels) I also bought the pilot package but found that some cylinders are so undersize that I needed to make my own pilot. I also found that reducing the pilot's length a bit is helpful, particularly with rebated cylinders like the 1860 Colt. Here is the link to the Brownell's page:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...olver-cylinder-throating-reamer-prod7700.aspx
So the idea is to just open the throat and not the entire cylinder? If you wanted the ream deeper, how did you shorten the pilot and does it slide the reamer down on the pilot bar?

Aloha... :cool: :)
 
So what's the skinny here, open up the chambers to .4525" for use with .454 or .457 balls? Anybody got some before and after test results?
 
That chamber and throat reamer will work OK if the size needed, but IME percussion revolver chambers are not nearly as uniform as chambers for cartridges and of course the reamer has to go in from the front. You don't have to open up the entire chamber, only enough to seat the ball.

Jim
 
I would ream them down almost to the cylinder step down in outside diameter in case you want to shoot a light load. That way the ball will sit on top of the small powder charge.
 
I would ream them down almost to the cylinder step down in outside diameter in case you want to shoot a light load. That way the ball will sit on top of the small powder charge.
I was thinking of reaming them as far as possible just for the sake of having a "uniform" bore. I saw a video last night of a light loaded or maybe just cap loaded pistol.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PU4-v433Of0

Aloha.. :cool:
 
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