Capper recommendation?

Status
Not open for further replies.

Hezekiah

Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2010
Messages
36
Location
Virginia
G'day gents. Can anyone suggest a decent capper for revolvers? I keep trying to conquer the straight brass p.o.s. that came with my Cabelas starter kit, but I guess it has too many moving parts for a dumb sailor...Anyhow, before wasting money, which works well and fast? I have #10 Remington caps (which seem to be the same size as the CCI #11s!). Also, can the caps be squeezed a bit and still pass through a capper?
Thanks!
 
Ted Cash snail capper is what I use. It works fine. I use it with #10', 11's and RWS. Only complaint is that mine tarnished quite a bit...CVA makes a plastic see-through but I've not used it.
 
Second the TC snail. You may have to take a file or grinding wheel to the tip of the jaws but they'll do the job in most places.

Tarnish is called 'patina'.
 
TC Revolver (snail) capper +3. I've worn a couple of them out over the years. Second the opinion that tarnish is 'patina' showing years of use. Using a shiny polished capper makes you look like a noob :neener:.

If you have to pinch your caps to make em stay on.............. you're using the wrong ones :scrutiny:.
 
Thank you gents!. Snail capper it will be. As far as the pinching...well, bought Remington 10 and they ar the same size as the CCI 11s (fall offf just as readily). I just don't get it!
 
Have you put Treso nipples on that gun?
Treso nips & Remington #10 cap = unbeatable combination.
--Dawg
 
Fingers until a few weeks ago I'd have agreed with you on pinching caps. I found a '62 Police and it followed me home last month. I immediately found that the original nipples were not going to work so I ordered a set of Treso's and figured problem solved.

I've had Treso's on several guns and they all liked CCI #11's, not these!!! Not only that but if I try to use the CCI #10's I have to beat them on with a mallet (kidding) to get them to seat. Consequenty, I pinch the #11's. If I ever come across Remmington caps I'll give them a shot. Until then, I'm stuck.
 
I have always just used my Thumb.


Bought a 'Ted Cash' Snail Capper awhile back, but forgot to try it out yet.

If Caps fit right, Thumb seems to work well for seating them...kinda hurts a little on cold days though.
 
Patina is only when it's on copper. On brass or silver, it's tarnish and undesirable. Brass and silver are meant to be kept polished. Copper is allowed to patinate. Polishing brass and silver antiques does not hurt their value, but polishing copper antiques does. That's too bad, because I like polished copper better than patinated copper. For that matter, I like all my metal objects polished to a high shine. For me, steel is too much pain in the butt to keep polished. I'd rather have it blued,Parkerized, Bonderized, color case hardened, or browned, whichever is correct for the particular item.
Calling tarnish patina doesn't make it so. Just like calling a magazine a clip doesn't make a magazine a clip.
On steel, it's oxidation, rust, bluing/browning loss, or just plain butt-ugly.

That said, I don't feel inclined to take the time to polish my brass capper, unless I'm going to wax it to prevent tarnish. It's just too narrow to be worth the effort. Maybe I'll polish or wax a snail capper when I get one. Maybe my laziness will win out.
Shiny brass is easier to find, if you drop it, but a bit of a pain to keep shiny. Tarnished brass is easier to lose sight of if dropped, but it's an easy finish to maintain.

However, I respect your right to your incorrect opinion.:neener: (J/K, of course.)
I say, use whatever level of finish/polish or tarnish/oxidation you prefer. That's what I'll do, and let my descendants worry about the value.

I like high polish, but would rather spend my time cleaning than polishing,
Darn my human laziness.:D
 
Patina is only when it's on copper. On brass or silver, it's tarnish and undesirable.
Since that's an opinion, I won't go so far as to say it's incorrect. However, I would like to make 2 points.

First, all the definitions of the word 'patina' I could find on the internet include both the green oxide film on copper or bronze AND the more general description of an aged surface exposed to the elements over a period of time, the type of surface being unimportant to the use of the word. Accordingly, I don't concede that only a copper or bronze metal surface can have a patina.

Second, my wife, who has made a successful 30 career in antiques, uses the term patina regardless of the material when describing any weathered surface that she wishes to portray in a positive manner to a client. This includes brass - many brass articles are considered attractive and thus desireable by her very discriminating (and thankfully wealthy) clients/customers. In that group are the brass portholes on our sailboat, intentionally left to weather while other brass fittings are lovingly polished regularly.

Finally, I've had a number of shooters describe a custom rifle with shiny brass fittings as 'not authentic because the brass was too shiny'. Others have expressly requested the brass be polished before completing a transaction for one. It's all in the eye of the beholder or owner.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top