Case Trimmer(s)?

[HK G3]

Hopefully this won't start a color-war, but I'm looking to start reloading some rifle calibers soon.

I'll mainly be loading .223 Rem and .308 Win at first.

Since all I really load is .45 Auto, I don't have a case trimmer or chamfer/deburrer, and don't know a whole lot about the process aside from what my load manuals tell me.

I'm currently looking at the Hornady Cam-Lock case trimmer, since almost everything I use is Hornady, and I like all the brand's products thus far - they all seem to have nice features that make reloading easier. Does anyone have any experience with this particular case trimmer? Is it convenient and quick to use when dealing with a somewhat high volume of cartridges (I like to work on batches of 200)? I know it's more expensive than a lot of the other offerings, but it seems to be more precise/easy to adjust, at least from the description. I'd rather buy something that I will keep and continue to use, than buy something cheap and find myself wanting to upgrade after awhile using it. I have, however, also heard good things about the Lee drill trimmers. I would have to go out and buy a power drill though which will increase the cost.

I'd especially appreciate input from anyone with experience from multiple case trimmers, if you could weigh in on the convenience/accuracy of each. Also, any little helpful tricks/tips are appreciated.

I've read this thread: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=168986 and while the Giraud looks amazing, and I do want one, I cannot justify spending that much cash on a case trimmer. $100 is my limit I would say.

On and last question, should I be looking into something to clean the primer pockets on top of the case trimmer/chamfer/deburrer, or is that unnecessary?

 

[Walkalong]

Wilson is the best hand trimmer, but I recommend the Forster. Best one for all around work. It is stiff and won't flex like the others.

Power trimming cheap. Possum Hollow. Works great. I have a hobby lathe to chuck it up in, so it goes real quickly.

 

[mongoose33]

I have the possum hollow trimmer. It's fast. I chuck it in a drill and clamp it to my workbench.

 

[xmanpike]

I would be interested in what people have to say here as I am getting ready to buy one. Also I have used only the RCBS power trimmer and was very unimpressed compared to the price as the shells seemed a little wobbly, and yes I had the correct shell plate and mandrel in there.

 

[BigJakeJ1s]

+1 for Wilson. Inexpensive too. One of those tools that is so simple, so well designed and executed, it just makes you wonder why you didn't think of it yourself. No collets, not neck pilots, just a simple taper-bored cylindrical holder that fits the body taper of your cartridge case for perfectly square cuts every time. The same holder works for all the derivatives of a single cartridge, like 308win, 243win, 260rem, 7mm08, 338fed, 358win, etc.

Sinclair has some nice accessories for it, including a micrometer adjustment that costs more than the trimmer itself, but is not really necessary. Nice bling for a gift from someone, though. You know, one of those things you might not buy for yourself, but would be really appreciated if it were received as a gift...

Wilson has all kinds of other accessories for it, like primer pocket reamers, inside neck reamers, precision deburring cutters, power screwdriver/drill adapter, etc.

They do not have an outside neck turner for it, though.

Andy

 

[shaggy430]

I like my Forster. One thing I did was replace the allen wrench set screw with one that was much longer and had a larger head on the trim stop. Works much better and I can adjust with just my fingers.

 

[The Bushmaster]

Pick one in YOUR price range and learn to use it well...

 

[lnlreloader]

I have the Giraud and it is wonderful. It is worth every penny. It trims, deburs, and chamfers in one easy step. It is very very fast.

 

[crawfobj]

+1 for Possum Hollow when trimming .223. For other stuff, I typically just use the Lee cutter/lock stud setup in my drill. It doesn't get much simpler.

 

[twofifty]

HK G3,

my Hornady trimmer works just fine and is well designed.

Here are the features: Well made and machined casting and controls, fairly easy to adjust depth of cut(though what the manuf. calls a micrometer is not since there are no scale markings but it does allow very fine adjustments). Good ergonomics on the handle shape and clearance.

Placing a cartridge in this mini-lathe is fast with the easily manipulated "cam-lock" toggle (it is not a cam for it tightens its hold on the case rim through an internal screw thread). It comes with several different caliber neck pilots, but make sure to order the Hornady shell holder.

The carbide cutter may be worth it. I have the steel one, and after 600 trimmings, it still cuts fine.

All in all, it is a quality handtool, well suited for batches of 200.
You can chamfer the neck with the Lee tools, super cheap and they both do a fine job without too much finger fatigue.

 

[Sport45]

I have an old (20+ year) Lyman Universal trimmer and it still works great. It is a hand crank type, so when I have a lot to do I use the Lee trimmer and chuck the shell holder into a drill.

I've used a borrowed Giraud for trimming a large batch of .223 and it is nice. But I won't buy one as long as it's available to borrow from time to time.

 

[NuJudge]

I've had a Forster for 35 years, and a Giraud for 4 years.

The Forster still works fine, but get the spud that allows you to power it with a hand drill.

The RCBS cutter can trim and chamfer much like the Giraud, which is a huge convenience.

The capital investment for the Giraud is huge, but it works like lightning. If you are doing hundreds of cases, you'll be done in an hour or so, instead of a whole week of evenings.

My Dad had a Wilson. It probably was the most precise, but that much precision as to case length is not necessary.

 

[HK G3]

Thanks for all the responses guys.

Looks like I have some deciding to do. Hrmmmm....

 

[JimKirk]

Rim variances

I don't mean to hijack the OP thread, but I have a question about trimmers that use collets to hold the case. What happens when the diameter of the case rim varies, say like the 30/06 size rim is .473 and a case measures .476. I have found that the case is cut shorter due to the collet not being able to be withdrawn as far in to the collet taper as say a case that is .470. I have experienced this myself.

Jimmy K

 

[BigJakeJ1s]

Don't know about other trimmers that use a collet to hold the case head, but the Forster trimmer's collet does not move longitudinally to tighten/loosen. The collet closer moves longitudinally instead. The only "issue" I've ever heard of (I have no personal experience with it) is that if you tighten the collet before the pilot is in the case neck, you can get inconsistent trim lengths. The instructions specifically tell you to insert the pilot into the case neck before tightening the collet.

The Wilson trimmer uses neither collets nor pilots to hold the case.

Both trimmers have excellent reputations.

Andy

 

[JimKirk]

Collet Movement

Andy,
I see what you are saying about the collet (closer) (what is it really called). I solved my RCBS(older one) problem by turning a piece of steel that was .473 diameter and has a small primer pilot on one end and a large primer pilot on the other. I swap ends to trim and it stop the problem of rim diameter affecting the length of the cut. The cut is based off the face of the case. Now if I could devise something to hold the case besides my hand.

Jimmy K.

 

[casey b]

Another + for the Possum Hollow it works well and is fast.

 

[Walkalong]

Don't know about other trimmers that use a collet to hold the case head, but the Forster trimmer's collet does not move longitudinally to tighten/loosen.

Yep, and it doesn't flex under pressure like my RCBS does. I use my RCBS, I just am more careful about hand pressure to keep it from flexing. I like the Forster better, but the RCBS does a fine job if you are careful.

I only use my Wilson for 6 PPC cases that I want to be as perfect as possible, both in squareness and length.

 

[casey b]

Another + for the Possum Hollow it works well and is fast.

 

[JimKirk]

Collet

Andy,
Unless you have a Forster trimmer that is not listed on the web site, yours works just like the RCBS. They both use the Browne & Sharpe type collet. The (closer, outter taper) is stationary and the inside collet moves closer or more open due to rim diameter. So unless I'm wrong you face the same problems as I do. Unless all your rims are matching diameter you're getting some different lengths. Like I said I may be wrong!

Jimmy K

RC Model how about some help with this!

 

[jhallrv4]

For plinking, you might skip the primer pocket cleaning, but for match ammo, you must. You don't want the firing pin to finish the seating job for you!

 

[BigJakeJ1s]

JimKirk,

I do not own a Forster trimmer, but before I bought my Wilson, I did a lot of research into how both the Wilson and Forster trimmers are designed, and their reputations among users. I do not know how the RCBS trimmer collet works, so I cannot compare it to the Forster.

Look at the directions for the Forster trimmer here:

http://www.forsterproducts.com/Media/OriginalTrimmer.pdf

Figure 2 on p. 2 clearly shows the threaded collet closer (collet screw on the diagram) moves longitudinally to close/open the collet. The flat frontal face of the collet itself registers against the inside lip of the collet housing, keeping the collet stationary as it is tightened by the collet screw advancing onto it from the rear (note the rearward facing, tapered surface of the collet that engages the inside of the collet screw.)

Forster designs and manufactures excellent equipment (I use their co-ax press and dies), but I preferred the simplicity of the Wilson trimmer. I'm sure users of Forster trimmers (as long as they follow the instructions) are justifiably satisfied with its performance too.

Andy

 

[Walkalong]

Once the Forster's collet hits the stop, it no longer moves laterally. I find that for 99% of brass, the collet is against the stop.

 

[HK G3]

For plinking, you might skip the primer pocket cleaning, but for match ammo, you must. You don't want the firing pin to finish the seating job for you!

Ah okay. What do you use to clean out the primer pocket? I'll mostly be doing plinking, but I do also want to have some match-grade ammo for practicing long-distance shooting.

 

[Walkalong]

Any of these will work fine. I have an RCBS one with a handle that came with my kit many years ago.

You can get just a cleaner, or go all out and get a primer pocket uniformer. I only use a uniformer on match ammo in 6PPC, nothing else.