Cases Fitting Too Tight

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wankerjake

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Ok, I'm reloading for my 243 win model 70. I'm running across shells that fit very tightly. I checked out my sizing die and the lock nut had wiggled loose and the FL sizer die was sitting a good full turn past touching the ram. So I pulled the few bullets I had laoded that were tight, re-adjusted the die to 1/8-1/4 turn deeper than the ram, pulled the primer stem up and re-sized. This worked with the 3 shells that were tight. Now today, I decided to run the rest of the brass thru the sizer die set to the correct depth before loading. Still after re-sizing about half of them are still tight. So I turned the die in another 1/4 turn and they were still tight. Another 1/4 turn, still tight.

To answer other questions I know will come up, the brass is all trimmed Remington brass. No I don't have a headspace guage...yet. The brass has not been fired from my rifle but may not be once fired. I got it from a board member who claimed it was once fired but I think it may not be. I thought some of it looked used but I could be wrong.

Also I colored one with a marker and chambered it. It looks like the resistance is indeed at the shoulder. I'm confused because it seems that if the die is setting some shoulders back, it should be setting all of them back. My only other thought is to pick up a headspace guage at cabelas this weekend, or just toss the 13 cases and use the good ones. Any suggestions?
 
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I'd suspect you have (1) a snug chamber and (2) your press is "springing" a tad/therefore giving you variable sizing between cases at their shoulders.

To test:
- Screw the die all the to ram... + 1/8th turn
- 'Fer sure lube the case walls well (NONE on shoulder)
- Size it.
- Chamber it

What is the result?
 
Without knowing what rifles the brass was originally fired in can account for the different lengths of the cases. If they were fired in different chambers, they would have conformed to those chambers, and the ones with short headspace wouldn't need the shoulders set back, but those fired in chambers with long headspace will.

Since you have some that are still tight in your chamber, that's a good thing. You can lube one and size it, then try to chamber it. If it is still tight, turn your sizing die down another 1/8 turn and repeat until you can get the shell to chamber. This will set up your sizing die for YOUR rifle. A case gauge will only set up the die for the gauge, not your chamber, and unless you're going to shoot those rounds through the gauge, it won't do you any good at all....

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
I'd suspect you have (1) a snug chamber and (2) your press is "springing" a tad/therefore giving you variable sizing between cases at their shoulders.

To test:
- Screw the die all the to ram... + 1/8th turn
- 'Fer sure lube the case walls well (NONE on shoulder)
- Size it.
- Chamber it

What is the result?

Yes I did this and it worked for the first 3. Now it isn't working which is very strange to me. I suppose I'll try this again.

Since you have some that are still tight in your chamber, that's a good thing. You can lube one and size it, then try to chamber it. If it is still tight, turn your sizing die down another 1/8 turn and repeat until you can get the shell to chamber. This will set up your sizing die for YOUR rifle. A case gauge will only set up the die for the gauge, not your chamber, and unless you're going to shoot those rounds through the gauge, it won't do you any good at all....
Well I did this and it wasn't working but I'll try another case and do it again. That was also my feeling on the guage and a big reason why I don't have one already.
 
Also I colored one with a marker and chambered it. It looks like the resistance is indeed at the shoulder. I'm confused because it seems that if the die is setting some shoulders back, it should be setting all of them back. My only other thought is to pick up a headspace guage at cabelas this weekend, or just toss the 13 cases and use the good ones. Any suggestions

Yes, get a headspace gauge. You don't know what is going on if you cannot measure it.

Now, if after buying a gauge, and lowering the die to the shellholder plus a quarter turn, and your gauge tells you that your sized cases are too long, then,

Your sizing die is too long!

I can hear the gasps, the groans, the shouts of “burn the heretic” as there are those who believe that all sizing dies are perfect in all presses with all shell holders in all calibers.

But if you drift outside their state of delusion you will sometimes find that you have to shorten the sizing die.

I have removed material from the bottom of a few Lee sizing dies because I could not get the die to set the shoulder to proper headspace dimensions.

Don’t remove any material until you get a gauge.

An excellent link on how to gauge cases:


http://www.realguns.com/Commentary/comar46.htm
 
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I would not get a headspace gauge at this point, as it is not part of the issue. If adjusting down the FL sizer die is not solving the problem, salvage what you can, and toss the bad ones for metal recycling. New 243 brass is not that expensive, and the aggravation loss, will be money well spent.



NCsmitty
 
If it does turn out as SlamFire1 suggests, and the case can't be pushed far enough into the sizing die to set the shoulder back, then I'd suggest milling or grinding a few thousandths off the shellholder, rather than the die. Shellholders are cheap, and easier to machine, than hardened dies. If you screw up a shellholder then you're only out a couple of dollars for a new one, or about $1.50 for a used one at a gunshow.

If you have several shellholders in the same caliber, then try switching them around, since they're all going to measure differently from the bottom of the holder to the top of it. I make it a habit to have more than one shellholder in each caliber, and in some, I've got as many as 4 or 5, and they're marked as which dies they go to.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
I also do the shell holder roulette and mark them with an engraving tool. Have not had to cut one down yet however. My Lyman ones seem to be the shallowest of all the brands when measured. I buy every one that I find used at gun shows.
 
+1 for ReLoaderFred's suggestion to take some off the top of the shellholder.

I suggest getting some 150 grit wet/dry sandpaper and oiling it (motor oil/WD40's fine) then using a flat (kitchen counter) surface, swirl the top of the shellholder against it. That will shave it off "10-15 seconds at a time" in a fairly controlled manner.

With the die against the Ram +1/8th turn (remember to keep adjusting down as you sand the shellholder), keep trying the same case/sanding the shellholder until it DOES fit in the rifle. [Note that you'll be able to see the change in the amount of material off the shellholder by where the die changes in bottoming out on the ram. It doesn't take much change.]

Mark that spot carefully at the start.
With a standard 1-in-14 thread die....

- 1/8 turn difference is 0.00893" ~(9 thousandths)
- 1/16 turn is 0.00446 (~4 thousands)
 
Wouldn't turning the die into the press do the same as taking off shellplate?

Also why is it that some cases do fit after sizing? Just because the shoulder hasn't grown too long yet on those ones so they still fit, and when I re-size it isn't actually pushing the shoulder back on the ones that already fit?
 
If the die is already bottomed out..., only by making the shellplate thinner (or filing off the mouth of the die) do you get the case further into the die itself.

As to why some fit after sizing and some don't, I suspect that you are correct that those cases which fit where never too long for the chamber to start with, or the sides didn't require as much sqeezing and therefore the shoulder wasn't pushed forward when sized.

The brass has not been fired from my rifle but may not be once fired. I got it from a board member who claimed it was once fired

...tells me me you may be dealing w/ a smorgasboard of cases sizes in the collection you have.
 
Gotcha that makes sense. I'm gonna save 'em for now, may have to take some off the shell holder later. Thanks guys.
 
I'm running across shells that fit very tightly.

I have no ideal what press and or die you are using, again, purchasing dies is like ordering coffee, de-caff, half-calf, mocha, regular, cream and sugar, and the most misunderstood words spoken when ordering coffee, "I want coffee' just coffee, black, no I do not want cream or sugar, I just want coffee" Dies are like that, I use dies, just plain -O dies, I do not want a bushing or collet, nothing cute or fancy, I want a plain-O die with as few parts as I can get.

I do not have just one set of dies for one chamber, I have enough dies that afford me the luxury of comparing one against the other and that would include different brand. I would not think of grinding a die and or a shell holder, rational: GRINDING EITHER OR BOTH IS NEVER NECESSARY. But I am neither vain or hard headed, as I have said forever, I size cases for different purposes, different purposes? Short chambers, long chambers and for chambers with head space issues by adding to the length of the case from the head of the case to the shoulder with techniques and or methods that do not include guesstimates like "a tad" or a 1/4 turn without a degree wheel.

Then there is the unknown zone, a reloader sizes a case, afterwords the reloader does not know if the press sized the case or if the case won because of resistance to sizing, so the only solution, grind something off, I would hate to be that hard headed.

Consumer oriented, yes purchase a head space gage, one more time, I can make a go-gage, or turn a go-gage into a gage that checks head space. in thousands from go to infinity, that would be beyond a practical .016 thousands, but that I find unnecessary, I have a press, die and shell holder that is adjustable with the incline plane "THREADS" 14 per inch, that gives me 71 (71.0071429) options per turn,

Wankerjake, you ask a question about sizing and the relation between sizing and reducing the length of the case, the limit of sizing is determined by the distance between the deck of the shell holder and shoulder inside the die, I have a shop press, depending on the bottle jack capacity I could put 20 tons (40,000 lbs) of pressure on a die and shell holder without reducing the length of the case, I have arbor pressed set up for dies and shell holders, the limit of pressure depends on the length of the handle, still I could crush the die but there would not be an advantage to sizing with that much effort.

Effort when sizing and case resistance to sizing, again, when the resistance to sizing exceeds the ability of the press, die and shell holder to size the press deflects, flexes spreads, or yields to the effort, not a problem but with a few exceptions few have the ability, understanding, tools and skill to set up a dial indicator, strain gage or deflection gage to measure the required effort (or wasted effort) used when sizing,

Hard headed, resistance to change or making it complicated. Manufactures measure the cases ability to resist sizing, If full length sizing is accomplished when the die hits the top of the shell holder with the ram up and jammed, cammed or crammed up and or over AND the case resistance to sizing exceeds the ability of the of the press to size the die is not touching the shell holder meaning THERE IS A GAP! There are a few of us that know a gap can be measured, to determine a gap can be found with a light but no way to measure the width of the light beam escaping between the die and shell h9older, BUT there is the companion tool to the press, the feeler gage, if there is a gap that allows light to to pass through the gap can be measured in thousands, again I would hate to be so hard headed I would not include the feeler gage as a tool that serves a purpose when reloading.

Without the feeler gage I would be like most other reloaders, I would not have a clue if the case is being sized or if the case is whipping my press, I would not know what to expect when making guesstimates of a turn, when forming cases I make adjustments in thousands.

Again" GRINDING!? Anything accomplished by grinding I can accomplish with a feeler gage, shorten the case as much as .017 thousands under a go-gage length chamber or add to the length of the case from the head of the case it's shoulder an infant amount or a more practical .016 thousands, I started with a feeler gage THEN I found a press etc..

F. Guffey
 
Then there is the 'Get a head space gage': 'Purchase a head space gage", and I ask after the gage arrives, what are you going to do with it? The head space gage will chamber, after that, what does it tell the user? It chambers? I ask, by how much? The go-gage will chamber in one of my M1917 Eddystones by .011 thousands because It has .016 thousand head space.

Order a no-go gage? The no-go gage will also chamber in my M1917 Eddystone.

Order a field reject gage? the field reject gage will also chamber in my M1917 Eddystone, My press(es) and dies are adjustable, they have threads, threads make it possible to size cases by adding or subtracting to the length of the case form the head of the case to it's shoulder, so I form (size) cases by adjusting the gap between the top of the shell holder and bottom of the die OR I raise the deck height of the shell holder by using a feeler gage between the shell holder and bottom of the case head to be sized. AND I measure the length of the case after sizing without a case comparator or head space gage?,

It is possible to measure case length from the head of the case to it's shoulder with basically nothing but the tools used for reloading, it is impossible to convince a reloader it can be done

Reminds me Of Jimmy Dean explaining the madness of the chicken crossing the road, he said the chicken crosses the road to show the opossum it can be done.

F. Guffey
 
Your sizing die is too long!

Slamfire1, if the die is too long there has to be a way to measured the length of the case from the head of the case to it's shoulder after sizing, with the most basic of methods, the OP could have attempted to chamber the case after sizing, that would be before seating a bullet and risking the possibility of seating and crimping at the same time, sometimes a necessary thing but it is possible to squat the case, bulge the neck and or shoulder if the seater die is not adjusted.

Proper crimping, in the old days seating the bullet was done effortless by hand.

And there are no rules when choosing a case for sizing, reloaders do not use a criteria and there is nothing in the vocabulary of a lot of reloaders that allow them to rate cases for sizing as in a good choice or a bad/poor choice, for me nothing works like a new unfired case, and then it is downhill from there, but my press whips the case, the case does not whip my press, but, if it does I can determine 'by how much' and why.

F. Guffey
 
Just on the off chance you are not adjusting the die correctly?

Are you screwing it down against the shell holder with the ram fully up?
Then are you screwing the die down another 1/8 or more with the ram lowered?
And then do you still get full ram travel while feeling the press linkage toggle over or "bump over" at full handle travel?

If you answered no to any of those questions, you are not using the built-in press stop and are not getting full toggle action or "toggle over" to push the shoulder back on every case the same.

rc
 
Are you screwing it down against the shell holder with the ram fully up?
Then are you screwing the die down another 1/8 or more with the ram lowered?
And then do you still get full ram travel while feeling the press linkage toggle over or "bump over" at full handle travel?
Yes
Yes
I think so. It feels just like other cartridges, it feels like it bumps over at full handle travel.
 
I was having the same problem with me 6.5 Grendel's. Bumping over didn't help, lowering the dies didn't help. I took my calipers and measured every possible measurement on the case. It turns out that the last couple of thousands of the case base are .001 to big. The Case base is supposed to measure .439, and I was measuring my sized cases at .440 and .441. It turns out, the last little bit of the case (near the base) was not going far enough into the FL sizing die to be resized to the proper diameter. The shellholder was too thick and wasn't allowing the last little bit of the case to go up inside the die. I needed to use a lower shellholder.

I took my shellholder out to the shed and took several thousands off the shell holder with my belt/disk sander. Sized a case .... measured, then sanded some more off till the cases measured correctly. It worked out just fine. You just have to spin it a little while sanding so you take the material off evenly on all sides. Plus, if you really mess up a shell holder, your out 8 bucks. Not big deal. Now when I measure my resized brass, it comes out at exactly .439 I bet you'll find the same thing if you take your calipers and measure out all the case specifications listed in your reloading manuals. Now all my cases are sized perfectly.

Oh, I was using RCBS shellholders and Redding Dies. I suppose that's were the problem was coming from. Different specs for different manufacturers.
 
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The shoulder of your cases may be ever so slightly buckled - barely visible to the naked eye.

I suggest you back out your seating die just a tad. It may be applying a crimp to some cases when seating the bullet, causing a buckling failure of the shoulder, which causes it to bulge.

Good luck!
 
BUT there is the companion tool to the press, the feeler gage, if there is a gap that allows light to to pass through the gap can be measured in thousands, again I would hate to be so hard headed I would not include the feeler gage as a tool that serves a purpose when reloading.

Guffey I know you mean well, and you have always been a Gentleman, but I really don’t believe that adding a feeler gage between a shellholder and a die is going to shorten the case.

Order a no-go gage? The no-go gage will also chamber in my M1917 Eddystone.

Order a field reject gage? the field reject gage will also chamber in my M1917 Eddystone,

I won’t stand for rifles with chambers that are out of spec. Cartridge cases are only meant to stretch about .006” without rupture. I am not interested in testing the limits.

If the chamber is too long the first thing I will do is swap bolts and hope to find one in spec. If that does not work, I have paid to have a thread added, cone recut, extractor groove recut and the chamber reamed. If the chamber is too short, well in 308 and 30-06, I can ream them to depth.

I have one 6.5 X 55 that I am going to have rebarreled. This is turning out to be one of those "AD" projects, you know, one of those things you finally have enough time to do After Death. LOL

As for grinding the bottom of the die, there is a lot of steel down there. If I only have to remove .010", ten thousandths, to push the shoulder enough, I have not really removed much metal off a four inch die.

I also don't see a reason to muck up a perfectly good shellholder, or creating a "special" shell holder to use with an over length die. Having to dig around trying to find that "special" shell holder to use with that one die, well, forget that.

Which is probably what will happen as I will likely forget not only where the special holder is, but that I ever needed one.
 
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