Casings getting stuck in the cylinder

[CraigAPS]

I purchased a RIA M206 .38 snub last week. So far, I've gone to the range 3 times and have put about 350 rounds through it. I clean it after each trip. The first 2 were nothing special (I mean, I DID learn I'm a cappy shot, but otherwise...). Today, when ejecting the spent cases, 2 or 3 would only come out about 1/4", and I'd either have to hit the ejector several times or pull them out by hand. The casings weren't cracked or anything. Every time I've shot it, I've used WWB 130gr or Remington 158gr or 130gr rounds. All factory new. No reloads. What could be the cause of this? Am I not cleaning thorough enough? I use gun oil on a rag to wipe the Parkerized finish. Could some of it dripped into the cylinder and that be the culprit? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

[WVGunman]

Oil in the cylinder would make it easier to get the cases out, not harder (or, if there was enough oil, you'd get a kaboom). I've experienced this stickiness of cases myself, and there are/can be/ have been a variety of causes:
1- Shooting a longer-cased round in the same cylinder after a shorter-cased round that left fouling in the cylinder. Think shooting .357 mag after 38 Spec. The longer case sticks on the powder fouling that it has to ride over in order to chamber. This is not your problem, as your gun only shoots .38.
2- high pressure ammunition that is expanding the case so much it doesn't entirely snap back after firing. This is probably not your problem either.
3- Rough chambers (and I think this probably IS your problem). Cheaper, lower-end revolvers are often cheaper because certain steps in the manufacturing process are skipped to keep costs down. Revolver chambers require a very smooth surface to avoid the very problem you have. If there is any irregularity in the chamber, even a very minor one, the brass case will expand just enough to hang-up on the rough part after firing. these rough patches may not even be visible to the naked eye. The RIA 206 has a good reputation as a shooter, but it's cheap for a reason, and its just the sort of gun where a glitch like this could slide through.

Another possibility is that you never actually cleaned out the cylinder chambers individually. Low-pressure rounds (like Winchester WB) will allow powder gas, and hence fouling, to go down the case a ways. This will eventually foul the chambers for any length of cartridge, producing a situation similar to #1 above. You didn't say how you cleaned it, but make sure you clean every chamber with solvent and a brush.

 

[WVGunman]

Btw, I just realized what I said above could be construed as advising someone to oil their revolver's chambers to aid extraction. DO NOT DO THAT. You are obstructing the gun's bore and could create an overpressure situation that would blow your gun apart. It's not terribly likely to happen, but oiling the chambers is not necessary anyway. NEVER DO IT.

 

[rcmodel]

Use a bronze bore brush in a cordless drill and clean each chamber with powder solvent.

However, I doubt that is your problem.

I doubt your gun is at the top of the heap, quality wise.

I would suspect rough, unfinished chambers, first.

Try this.

Color some rounds with a black magic marker, then fire them.

Where the black scrapes off the cases is your problem area.

rc

 

[CraigAPS]

Gunman, I use Hoppe's No. 9 with a brass bore brush in every chamber, then patches with more cleaner through each chamber until they come out clean, then dry patches through each chamber until dry.

RC, I'll have to try both of those ideas.

I realize the M206 is FAR from the top of the line. I just didn't think it'd go from the casings sliding out without using the extractor the first two trips to the range to getting stuck. I assumed it was simply something I screwed up.

 

[MEHavey]

There is nothing wrong with lightly lubricated cases. Nothing at all. Nothing will obstruct the bore. Nothing will "blow up". Nothing will stretch the frame. Nothing will happen except make it a little easier on extraction.

Go ahead an see if it alleviates the problem.
If not, polish the cylinder walls with oiled 000 steel wool wrapped around a bronze brush in a handrilll.

 

[WVGunman]

There is nothing wrong with lightly lubricated cases. Nothing at all.

That's true, but I always like to account for those who lack common sense; the type who think you can never have TOO MUCH of a good thing. My second post was basically a c.m.a. disclaimer.

 

[MEHavey]

I always like to account for those who lack common sense....

I hear`ya brother.

 

[witchhunter]

I concur with RCModel, as usual. Chuck up a bronze brush in a drill and get busy. You will probably see that it is the same two cylinders that are sticking. Use his advice.

 

[FROGO207]

I have had several Ruger Blackhawks that had the brass stick in cylinders. Both my 30 Carbine ones were the worst offenders. I had to polish multiple cylinders and ream some of the throats to make the brass eject well and get accuracy with lead bullets. If your brass fell out the first few cylinders full then I suspect the chambers to have buildup as the primary cause. Curious what you find is the problem.

 

[Zaydok Allen]

If it is rough chambers you can polish them yourself by hand with a bore mop and mothers mag polish. Did it to my SP101 in 22lr. Didn't take long. Wasn't hard. Just go slow.

 

[WVGunman]

If your brass fell out the first few cylinders full then I suspect the chambers to have buildup as the primary cause. Curious what you find is the problem.

It sounds like he didn't track how different brands were sticking or NOT sticking, so it's possible its a specific problem with one brand of ammo.

 

[CraigAPS]

It sounds like he didn't track how different brands were sticking or NOT sticking, so it's possible its a specific problem with one brand of ammo.

The first time at the range, I used 50 Remington 158gr and 100 WWB 130gr. The second time was exclusively WWB 130 gr. The third time, I used 50 WWB 130gr and 50 Remington UMC 130 gr. The third trip is the one during which both brands were getting stuck.

 

[CraigAPS]

I'll have to chuck my bore brush in my drill and polish the cylinder.

Also, not sure I'd this would impact things or not, the rounds were sitting in my trunk for several hours before shooting them and it was around 87° or so. Would the heat prior to firing added to the heat of actually firing the round make it expand more than usual?

 

[Shaq]

You might try having the chambers polished. One of the causes of sticky extraction is a rough chamber - and not uncommon with a cheap gun.

 

[jdavis123]

He stated that his first 2 range visits were without issue and that the third time is where he experienced the sticking cases. The problems is most likely a cleaning issue, excess lubrication left in the charging holes, or use of .38 special +P ammunition in a gun not rated for high pressure cartridges.

 

[WVGunman]

Also, not sure I'd this would impact things or not, the rounds were sitting in my trunk for several hours before shooting them and it was around 87° or so. Would the heat prior to firing added to the heat of actually firing the round make it expand more than usual?

It might. According to Alliant Powder: "... make certain that powder is not exposed to extreme heat as this may cause deterioration. Such exposure produces an acidity which accelerates further reaction and has been known, because of the heat generated by the reaction, to cause spontaneous combustion."
If it was 87 outside, it was probably over 100 inside your trunk. That situation may have made these rounds higher pressure than usual, which would create a sticking problem that would not surface normally. I wouldn't make a habit of storing your ammo like that.

 

[CraigAPS]

WVGunman, I usually don't store my ammo like that. It usually stays in a metal .50 cal ammo can inside my house. I went to visit my dad this weekend and took my gun and ammo so that we could go shooting. So, it was in my trunk for about 4-5 hrs in that heat. Plus, it's also been fairly humid as well lately. I'll have to go to the range this week to see if that was the problem. If it turns out not to be, then I'll polish the cylinder chambers.

 

[Bula]

I'd agree with the above posts. Clean it really well with the drill method. Then use a new mop and load it up with a good metal polish and get after it again, using a drill. Polish each chamber then give it another good cleaning and light oiling.

 

[C0untZer0]

I'd agree with the above posts. Clean it really well with the drill method. Then use a new mop and load it up with a good metal polish and get after it again, using a drill. Polish each chamber then give it another good cleaning and light oiling.

Another take on it, R.W.Dale advises getting the oil completely out of the chambers. He's addressing tapered cases but it might be something to try:

http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=9627898&postcount=81



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[HankC]

Is your ejector rod straight? Do you flip the wheel?

 

[CraigAPS]

Well, I just got back from the range. I had no ejection problems today at all. I hadn't cleaned or fired it since I first made this thread. So, I took one box of ammo from last week and one box that I just bought and went to the range. I figured I could test rounds from each box. If only the ammo that I had left over from the trip during which I had the issue got stuck, it was the ammo. If it happened to both boxes, then it was the something with the gun itself (my lack of cleaning, buildup, rough chambers, etc. as you have all suggested). Much to my surprise, I went through both boxes, and every casing ejected just fine. So, I'm still stumped as to what caused the issue in the first place!

 

[ArchAngelCD]

It sounds like the day you had sticking cases was from excessive pressure caused by the ammo heating up in the hot car. I'm glad to hear all us well now. Enjoy your gun and don't worry about your cleaning method.

 

[HANDLOADER]

Everyone talks crap about these and quite frankly they are the ones we should talk crap about. These little revolvers are just that value line guns. They are rough BUT TOUGH. Here is what I do to revolvers I buy that are less than perfect. Go to MSC and buy flex hone that will snugly fit your cylinders. Take a 3/8 drill mine will spin 4000 RPM. Use honing oil and a lot of it and hone each cylinder. This will leave a mirror finish or in your case a brighter finish and remove all burrs and tool marks. Tool marks are the enemy in firearms. Oil, hones, a variety of stones and few hand tools will make you the talk of the town. These alterations will put it on the level with a smith or colt any day.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

You can put lipstick on a pig but it's still a pig. I just had to say that because making a gun pretty doesn't change the quality of the parts inside.