Cast lead round choices for the CVA Optima V2 pistols?

[Tallbald]

I really like my Optima V2 pistol. Extremely accurate, powerful and a hoot to shoot. But sabots aren't cheap even in bulk, nor are jacketed slugs. I'm a dedicated reloading caster with a love for the silver stream. If i'm not mistaken, my pistol has a 1 in 28 twist that's faster than most traditional muzzle loader weapons. This pistol has been out for several years now and I wonder if anyone has found a great, accurate cast lead .50 caliber slug that's wonderful in this gun? Thanks. Don.

 

[rodwha]

My understanding is that with BP handguns a 1:30” twist is a slow twist meant for a sphere, whereas something around 1:16” is meant for a bullet. But that’s also determined by speed with a .50 cal pistol using something like 40-50 grns of powder.

Quite frankly I’d try the shorter 250 grn Lee REAL, as well as the longer 320 grn REAL. Make sure you have felt wads as well as some full bore conicals don’t shoot well without them, which was my experience having it keyhole at 50 yds and fly about a foot left and several inches low, whereas with a wad they were nearly touching and just below the bull.

I assume your pistol has shallow grooves. Not sure how easy these would be to load as the widest driving band runs about 0.517”. But I’ve been told they load and work fine in shallow grooved barrels.

Not sure if your pistol would shoot them well but paper patching a .500 cal pistol bullet might work. And if nothing else Accurate Molds can create one to an appropriate length to work with your spin rate and powder charge.

 

[Tallbald]

Rodwa thanks. I like the idea of the lower weight REAL 250 grain for lead savings. My pistol, I'm told, can take some heavy charges. With the shorter, 250 grain slugs, am I looking for higher or lower speeds with the faster twist please? Actually the rifling is similar in appearance to my cartridge guns as far as depth. I've also wondered about trying Blackhorn 209 powder, reading that it's the latest and greatest. It would require a different breech plug though on this pistol.
My Optima pistol is a range gun. I cannot hunt any more, but shooting for groups on the cheap is my game. Don.

 

[rodwha]

I believe the shorter REALs were designed for use (mostly) in slower twist RB barrels. I don’t think I have any cast having given them away, but I’ll check to see and if I do I’ll measure them. I bought my 250 REAL mold used feeling I’ll one day also have the Lyman Plains Pistol. I’ve yet to try it in my 1:48” twist Deerstalker, which seems to do quite well with the 320’s.

With length in mind I’d assume you’d want it faster. For a RB in a slower twist I typically see the need for a larger powder charge for accuracy. When tried in fast twists a RB generally seems to need to be slowed down. I’m guessing the twist of yours is set with pistol bullets in sabots in mind and my understanding is it is designed for stout charges.

Quite frankly I’d start with 50 grns and see what you get and work up from their until you get close to the max charge.

It would make sense that your pistol has the typical shallow grooves.

As to Blackhorn I’ve read from a few that really claim it to be quite good as far as consistency goes. In general it seems people prefer it over T7. But I’ve also seen some of those who love it also say that Swiss and Olde Eynsford are just as good if not better, even more so as it’s cheaper and doesn’t need 209 primers and the tedium of what it takes to remove the spent one and install the next one. If it didn’t require the 209’s I’d likely one day try it. I’m happy using Olde E and T7 though and balk at the price of BH209.

 

[drobs]

I'd try a round ball - at least it won't keyhole...

Seriously though - you might find the info contained in this thread interesting:
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...rticle-about-shooting-saboted-bullets.835424/

Basically you can shoot any caliber (less than 50) modern bullet using sabots. So if you cast 45 acp or 357mag, you could sabot those and shoot them in your pistol.

 

[rodwha]

I'd try a round ball - at least it won't keyhole...

Seriously though - you might find the info contained in this thread interesting:
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...rticle-about-shooting-saboted-bullets.835424/

Basically you can shoot any caliber (less than 50) modern bullet using sabots. So if you cast 45 acp or 357mag, you could sabot those and shoot them in your pistol.

He actually wants to get away from sabots.

I’ve wondered how cloth patching a bullet would work. I don’t like the idea of dealing with the plastic in my bore as I’ve read about, but also am not sure if it’s even a big deal. I’ve also found one person who loads a felt wad first which pushed all the plastic out at each shot. One day I may just try some of this, though I’m determined to find a patched ball load that’s accurate to 100 yds and to continue working with the REALs.

 

[drobs]

He actually wants to get away from sabots.

I’ve wondered how cloth patching a bullet would work. I don’t like the idea of dealing with the plastic in my bore as I’ve read about, but also am not sure if it’s even a big deal. I’ve also found one person who loads a felt wad first which pushed all the plastic out at each shot. One day I may just try some of this, though I’m determined to find a patched ball load that’s accurate to 100 yds and to continue working with the REALs.

Yes and my point was he may be able to save some $ using handgun or rifle bullets - molds instead of limiting himself to only using black powder projectiles.
Plus try something new.

More details:
http://mmpsabots.com/recommended-bullet-list/

 

[Patocazador]

This pistol has been out for several years now and I wonder if anyone has found a great, accurate cast lead .50 caliber slug that's wonderful in this gun?

I have this pistol but always shoot it with a sabot and jacketed bullet. It shines with that combo. If you are looking for high-velocity lead loads, I think you should use wheel weights rather than pure lead as used in muzzleloading guns to cut down on leading of the barrel. A REAL, as rodwha suggested, would be a good place to start.

 

[CraigC]

I shot mine a good bit last year but only with sabots. I fully intended to test it with PRB but have no idea why I didn't.

 

[rodwha]

Just happened to have a few smaller REALs. My measurements run a bit on the low side. I often have fill issues and intend to try some 2% tin alloy.

250 grn REAL = .583” long
320 grn REAL = .718” long

The lighter REAL is likely a bit longer as my diameter was only .504” on the one I measured, whereas the heavier should be much closer as it measured .515”.

 

[Tallbald]

Excellent thoughts and suggestions folks. Thank you all. Don.

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

Had to chime in, try a patched round ball just for grins. I built a pistol years ago from a cut off 50 cal barrel with a 1 in 70 twist. It really surprised me with how accurate it is. I use a 25 grain charge of whatever powder is in the flask at the moment with a 490 ball. My suggestion is to start with a light load and work up as usual. A fellow I used to shoot with had an Optima pistol, he shot nothing but round ball. He could do fairly well but he couldn't see for sh@$. He also caught a lot of flack from the others because it wasn't a traditional pistol.