pcf
Member
If you think dremels and guns don't mix, or you're willing to risk ruining your AR's barrel proceed. This only works with 1/2-28 threaded flashhider that have been pinned and welded (if this like greek, see a gunsmith)
First things first, if you're doing this with an AR15 seperate the upper and lower, put a cable lock on the lower, and put the keys away. Until you permanently attach a new flash hider, putting the upper back on the barrel, creates a SBR.
You'll need a:
Dremel w/cutoff wheels
Masking tape
A wrench or vise grips
Stainless steel brush
Degreaser
Cleaning rod
Measuring tape
Silver solder paste
MAPP torch
1. Disassemble the upper and wrap everything but the flash hider with lots of masking tape, you can't use too much.
2. The easiest way to remove the old flash hider is to use a cutoff wheel and cut the pins down to the thread (or use common sense take the upper to a machine shop tell them it's pinned and the thread underneath is 1/2-28, for about $25 they can drill out the pins)
3. Remove the old flash hider with the wrench or vice grips.
4. Install the new flash hider and measure the barrel length (breech face to muzzle) measure once, measure again, have someone else measure. 16" minimum, if you didn't need to worry about this you wouldn't be going through all this trouble. Remove the flash hider.
5. You're going to need to cut a small groove or depression across the threads to hold the solder, about 1/8" wide x 3/8" and too the bottom of the threads will work. I did both side the barrel, but if done correctly one side will work.
6. Clean the threads on the barrel and flash hider with lots of hot soapy water and the stainless brush. Dry and clean with degreaser, rinse with more hot water and dry. Surface prep is critical, a little oil or carbon fouling on the threads can ruin the whole job.
7. Fill the groove on the threads with silver solder, screw on the flash hider and wipe off excess solder.
8. Heat flash hider with MAPP torch, aim about 3/4 of the way up the base of the flash hider. Be careful with the torch, you're going to cook the finish off of the flash hider, but if you do it right, you won't affect the finish on the barrel. Heat the flash hider to a dark red/dull cherry, if the solder starts to flow out it's time to stop. Remove excess solder with the steel brush or cleaning rod.
9. Let it cool, wipe off any excess flux with a damp rag once the barrel has cooled to the point it can be touched.
10. If you did it right the flash hider will not come off. The finish will need ruined and you will have to repark.
First things first, if you're doing this with an AR15 seperate the upper and lower, put a cable lock on the lower, and put the keys away. Until you permanently attach a new flash hider, putting the upper back on the barrel, creates a SBR.
You'll need a:
Dremel w/cutoff wheels
Masking tape
A wrench or vise grips
Stainless steel brush
Degreaser
Cleaning rod
Measuring tape
Silver solder paste
MAPP torch
1. Disassemble the upper and wrap everything but the flash hider with lots of masking tape, you can't use too much.
2. The easiest way to remove the old flash hider is to use a cutoff wheel and cut the pins down to the thread (or use common sense take the upper to a machine shop tell them it's pinned and the thread underneath is 1/2-28, for about $25 they can drill out the pins)
3. Remove the old flash hider with the wrench or vice grips.
4. Install the new flash hider and measure the barrel length (breech face to muzzle) measure once, measure again, have someone else measure. 16" minimum, if you didn't need to worry about this you wouldn't be going through all this trouble. Remove the flash hider.
5. You're going to need to cut a small groove or depression across the threads to hold the solder, about 1/8" wide x 3/8" and too the bottom of the threads will work. I did both side the barrel, but if done correctly one side will work.
6. Clean the threads on the barrel and flash hider with lots of hot soapy water and the stainless brush. Dry and clean with degreaser, rinse with more hot water and dry. Surface prep is critical, a little oil or carbon fouling on the threads can ruin the whole job.
7. Fill the groove on the threads with silver solder, screw on the flash hider and wipe off excess solder.
8. Heat flash hider with MAPP torch, aim about 3/4 of the way up the base of the flash hider. Be careful with the torch, you're going to cook the finish off of the flash hider, but if you do it right, you won't affect the finish on the barrel. Heat the flash hider to a dark red/dull cherry, if the solder starts to flow out it's time to stop. Remove excess solder with the steel brush or cleaning rod.
9. Let it cool, wipe off any excess flux with a damp rag once the barrel has cooled to the point it can be touched.
10. If you did it right the flash hider will not come off. The finish will need ruined and you will have to repark.
